87pathy

you say you have to read line itto get it up to spee, and your drawing 5k at 70mph.. Hows your tranny sound? Have you checked your fluid lately? even if your over drive is on, is it actually working? Turn it off and see if there is a difference.

don't put any crap in there to swell the seals, they'll just go again sooner. I do believe that there is a compound that you can buy to fill in the efected area. Or can you put a sleave on it? i'd ask the mech abou it.

you could do a SAS relatively cheap if you could find an u100 donor with dana 44 front axle. which is not too easy. or an Early ford F100 But if you go with the F100 axle you will either have to narrow the front axle or change the front and back axle because the F100 is about 5.5 inches wider than the stock pathy. :cool2:

Fist try a pickle fork. They cost about 10 bucks or you can usually rent them. If that doesn't work get a floor jack and cram it in between the control arms, jack it till it won't jack anymore an hit it with a hammer. usually pops loose. WARNING This Method could be dangerous.

How right you are

the only thing that would see any load or wear when your sitting there with the clutch in weather your in nutreal or in gear would be the throw out bearing. the friction disk sits static between the pressure plate and fly wheel. If you clutch is only partially disengaged or if you ride the clutch then you will wear the friction disk out. I drive as stated by mr. Pickles, (sitting at a light in gear with your clutch in) and i've put over 150k on my pathy and i've never changed the clutch.

well jeep, you might be lost in 1973 but we'll let you decide (just jokeing) and i do tend to agree with you on a 350 not requireing to be as high strung. anyway. At the end of the day its all personal preferance. But to swap in a 350 and keep your pathy reliable would be a real chore. not only for all the drive trane mods, but your suspension will go to hell pretty fast as well. So anyway lets get some serious power here and build a stroked 383 and drop it in there, so we can break some axles :cool2: or even the new chev small block 450 (I think it was maybe it was 430), I just read about that one in a new mag

no argument about that 88 it just gets me when people call the VG30 pathetic or pitiful, how often do you see a 350 (not that it is a bad engine at all) with 250k miles on it and not even burn oil? as far as no replacement for dispacement, its not 1970 anymore

pitiful you say? the engine is not pitiful, its just that we early guys have the less desireable vg30i.. did you know that if you want to put the money into it, you can have a 500hp vg30? or the vg30dett was in the fastest production car on its debute? we all have complaints about our pathy's performance, but to say that its' pitiful is not very accurate, as for a 350 swap, think about the power to weight ratio and how much money you will actully spend droping in a small block.. or lets see.. 300zx twin turbo from a junk yard and wire harness and computer.. what did they put out? somewere in the vacinity of 300 hp? (don't quote me on that number just know its in the ballpark)

Actually i think its a good idea to use aluminium. However do not bolt this directly to steel, use an isolator such as silicone or rubber to seperate contact. The reason for this is Disimilar metal corrosion. You would be really suprised on how fast it will start to corode metal and aluminium don't get along. Or you can chemicaly anodize the skid plate. in the 80's toyota used aluminum rivets in the bed. they were recalled because the rivets pulled through the rusted out steel bed. In oregon you may not have much problem but if your in a corrosive environment. take more care.

we got on this subject because its an interesting and arguable topic, and we all want to understand why (and argue cause its human nature). the chalk idea wa given to me by a buddy of mine in North carolina, he works with custom 4x4 trucks and this is what he does to determine "road air presssure" for different rigs.

bingo 88 , simple but correct remember PSI (pounds per square inch.) its surface area. if you have 8 square inches of rubber in contact with the ground, you will need less air pressure to properly suport the vehicle than you would with 4 square inches of rubber in contact. again this is a simple explanation but fairly accurate. your side walls do do alot of supporting of the vehicle but it doesn' t control how much surrface area is in contact with the road. I'm too hung over today to quote scripture or text. but.. you get the point

differnt tire sizes and different vehicle weights all contribute to different air pressure. it all has to do with pressure vs. area. the best way to find out how much air pressure you should put in your vehicle is as follows. Use a good chalk stick or soap stone and draw a heavy line accross your tire. do this on each and when you are finished, drive the vehicle down the road a little ways.( when the road is dry) the chalk / soap stone will wear off in certain area. if it wears off in the center, to much air pressure. if it wears off on the sides, not enough air pressure. if it wears off equally, its just right.

check the production date. it should be located onthe decal inside the door jam on the drivers side.

its not bad if you know your way around up there. take 94th behind the mall and then cross over.. and i do believe its 128th. we actually have several offroad places in puyallup now. but non of them sell anything good. its all bolt on stuff for trucks and jeeps. I couldn't even buy control arm mounting brackets, had to fab them myself. darn wannabe 4x4 outlets

ya 88 whats with that? (just kidding) myself i prefer the rustoleum yellow..

Mine is a manual and i agree that for off roading doing the two foot 3 three pedel shuffle can be kinda difficult.. so what do you do, add a hand throttle.. I've never delt with a Nissan auto but are they really as bad as everybody in this forum says they are?

it doesn sound like the water pump bearings are going out. but as 88 stated its not that hard to change. I've done mine twice once because of a bad seal and the second one only lasted about 1 month.. defective. just be sure not to over tension your belts or that will cause premature bearing failure. If you have never changed your timing belt. do it at that time. belt is only 20 bucks and if it breaks your looking at 400 bucks in parts alone. and thats if your 87 is pre 6/86 if it is post, the head gaskets are 3 times the price. have fun

hey jdub, billy bobs is in puyallup. up on south hill behind napa. I drive past everyday on my way home

Its in russian, you can tell by the characters and the web site shows dot (.ru) in this case there is no telling where those gears were made. just like our nissans built in the states, your'll never see one like ours outside the states, or canada, i have drove a 2000 navara (our frontier) in austailia and i own a 2000 fronier and they are nothing alike, handleing power, trim.. just to show you that we are all different. that 4.8 ring gear looks to be from a c200 rear end but we can all hope.

88 to be more specific, it'll be 6 of 12 valves that would be bent.. -thnkboutit- Been there done that.. it cost me 400 bucks to do all the work myself..

I believe (but don't quote me) it is because of the addatives and antifriction properites of the different oils. the dino oil won't penetrate past the synthetic residue. Like I said, don't quote me on this. i work with hydraulic systems for a living and i do know that some oils can't be used after others unless the system is flushed. excpecially in some piston pumps.

Oh synthethic oils, I myself Have never used them for the simple reason of continual use. I have many many auto mechanic friends and every one of them has told me once you use synthetic you always have to use synthetic. one of the reasons being the problem you are seeing. This may not be true but its good enough for me.

Ok, my reading comprehension wasn't all that yesterday, i didn't catch the part about pulling int for half a mile. That is a bit of a pickle hmmmm, thats kinda tough. the only time mine did something like that was when i broke the timing belt. some things to try. Replace battery cables, (at one time i had to do this because of low voltage problems) Did you try to jump start it? it so what happened? The only thing i can see that might stop it from starting while being push started are 1) computer 2) bad cables and or connections 3)timeing belt (if you poped the clutch on this.. maybe they are kinda funny this way. I broke a timeing chain on an old Ford this way as well) my timeing belt broke when i down shifted hard comming to a stop. i know this sounds like alot but they are easy things to check. good luck

I'd check with grounding as previously stated, then check your solenoid.. if those things are ok , time for a new bendix.. I had that problem about 4 years ago. and it turned out to need a new starter. You can check them with a pair of jumper cables.