87pathy

i did mine like 8 years ago, but if i remember right, 88 is correct about the clutch pack,, get that out, and if memory serves me right, a circlip or snap ring (depends on your nationality) should hold the guts onto the drive shaft that is what the little recess is at the end of your axle..

you could always take it to a dealer and they do an injector flush, that were they hook your injectors directly up to an external pump at high pressure using there. special stuff and blow all the crap out of them costs about 120 bucks

If you can't find that information as 88 specified, post o pic of the top of the engin, we should be able to find out from that.

I'm not up to speed on the post 90 pathies but maybe 88 can help out here.. I have a good 4.375 open carrier rear end drum to drum complete from an 87 that i'll let go for 200 bucks.. if it'll work for you.. 450 bucks from a junk yard.. OUCH

I think the diffenence is in the torque, i've never driven a Z24 but i did own a 95 King cab with the ka2400 and it was gutless as hell. The injection you are refereing to is a TBI,, Throttle Body Injection. this is what made the early 6 cylinders a little bit of a pain, no aftermarket, no parts, if your injectors ever go tits up you are looking at like 300 each, and in the 6 cylinder there are 2 injectors, loads of fun, but you could be lin luck, i know you can do some mods to that engine and get heeeeps of power i'll try and round up the web site on the Nissan/datsun Frankenmotors,

Ok i don't know whats up with the link, it doesn't seem to work. I even emailed it to myself before i posted to make sure and it was ok. But when i put it on this board it doesn't. So, try this. go to www.off-road.com then go to the Nissan section. The check vehicle facts. its the first one shown. sorry for all the BS in the post..

Nissan carrier information this link has good info for you 4 banger. Its hard to read but if you zoom in on it you can see. it gives differential information for all D21 and wd21 vehicles.

HOLD THE PHONE, I made a mistake, the 4 banger pickups had 4.375 gears but the pathy Had 4.626's The 4 banger only had a manual transmision and only came with 4.625 gears in the pathy. The hard body 4 bangers also only came with a manual transmission and only came with 4.375 gears.. Sorry for the incorrect post

You should have a C200 rear diff in that vehicle and according to the books, it is 4.375 for your 4 banger 4 weel drive manual transmision, from what i found, the 4 banger didn't have the 4.6's.. and as far as 4.8 gears, it they were put in, it was a long time ago and until recently the only people that made aftermarket Nissan gears was Nismo (4.88:1) and they ran about 700 bucks. so doubtful they were changed

Hey 88 I got a complete front end from an 87 pathy that i want to part out. How bad do you want those CV's? I'm sure i could part with them. They were in working order when i removed them. No poping, boots are good, ETC. Let me know

the bosh platinums are gapped at something like 0.64 and you are not supposed to gap the +2 or the +4's even ask the auto parts guy

4.8 gears?.. should be 4.375:1 Check this outpathy info

started with a 49 dodge power wagon, then down graded to a 78 chev 3/4 ton, when that went i had a 66 ford F100 4x4 sold that, bought a pathy, got tired of it breaking, so i SAS it, now i just need to finish..

don't quote me but i think fabtech makes a good lift too, i've contemplated getting the control arms for my frontier. but i'm not sure if they make it for the pathy

Hubs are selectable weather they are automatic or manual, if you have automatic hubs, they engage when the vehicle is put into 4 wheel drive or in the case of a new pathy AWD and the manual hubs must be engaged by hand or hammer. flanges are not selectable, they are always engaged weather in 4 wheel drive AWD or 2 wheel drive,

This is a fairlycommon thing, my pathy did the same a few years ago, i got a new axle bracket, new link to the frame and a rear plastic door for the rear jack storage, and i left the junk yard short 7 bucks.

88... you must have alot of time on your hands. that sounds like the hard way to check.. but functional.. about the vehicle running away, any experiance with this? :cool2:

one thing to keep in mind about the coolant. When or if you change your coolant, when refilling you must run the engine until the thermostat opens up. If you don't, your engine will have air pockets in it and when it does open up your radiator will go empty, or close to, and your engine will over heat. I've experienced this a couple of times when i changed my water pump (twice) and radiator... its pretty simple fill up the radiator, leave the cap off. start the engine let it run until the radiator level goes down and continue adding coolant until its full be sure to keep an eye on the temp guage. anybody else encountered this?

Jdub.. anytime you have a link setup you don't have to wory about axle wrap. I was refering to rear end jacking, which, if you don't know, is the backend actually lifting up under acceleration. This Can be a problem with coil overs. but not always it really depends on how good your geometry is with the link install.. just sharing Nice ride Mookie and thats a good idea for the shocks...

the only problem with coil overs in the rear, is that they can lead to rear end jacking under acceleration. i'm using front 3.5 inch early bronco rock crawler coils in the back. and probably rancho 9000 shocks (undecided) but don't put leafs in the back, it just ruins the whole pathy thing...

I agree going with coils is the best way, if you go with a leaf spring set up you will have to extend the frame forward and this will take away from your aproach angle as well. Most SAS on pathies i've see use coils in front and belive it or not putting leafs in the back (when the rear axle is changed as well) I'm using the existing spring buckets on the Pathy frame.. anyway when you go to do this, start gathering parts at least 3 months prior or bring your gold card. good luck

The SAS alone will take at least 1 week, there is a lot of custom fabrication you will have to do, but the 350 swap shouldn't be that bad, i belive novak sells an adaptor to install chev 350 Th350 and even bolt it up to the Nissan transfer case But if you do that, get a SLE (slip yoke eliminator)from calmini are you going to go coil or leaf in the front?

you could go to my web site and see all the details that i have done so far but they are lacking explanation.. 1) front end is from a 72 ford F100 Yes full width 2) Spring buckets and cups are from a 78? F150 3) Radius arms are from same 72 ford 4) I have made custom cross member, frame extension, and radius arm anchor points. 5) Coil springs in photo are 3.5" wildhorse rockcrawlers for a U100 but they are going to the back and 5.5" will be installed in the front 6) rear axle is a ford 9" full width from same 72 ford and i'm in work on a triangulated 4 link My web site is homegrown4x4 Enjoy

the stalling thing is kinda odd, but i spoke to my brother inlaw who has the exact same frontier as me and his has done the same thing. I'm going to give it a tune up next week, (even though the manufacturer says it isn't necessary for another 35 k miles) and see if it helps. Thanks for the imput guys

Thanks 88 i've read alot of your posts and you seam quite knowledgeable. I am going to crank up the torsion bars regardless as i did it on my 87 before the SAS. I'm just a little po'ed about Nissan service, i always had good luck with our local dealer but they moved and are under new managment and now... -argue- What do you think about the surge or stalling problem? Thanks again