87pathy

spolar, I know this mod.. you need to place your sliders at an angle corrosponding with the natural arc of the spring.. Works will, but the way you have them set, it will bind up a bit.

mine don't recline.. i know they are supposed to, but they don't.

rhino lined and ecu re-located to the glove box doors

got sawzall?

Collapsed lifter would be my first thought.. pull hte valve cover, start it, and have a look, take less than 30 min. Thats metal to metal sound.. Actually, first of.. Get a long skinny scerw driver, press the end of hte handle against your ear, and use it as a stethascope. You should be able to come within inches of finding the actual problem. Old school system.

ya, thats WAY too much to pay for a power steering pump..

I wouldn't trust the idler arm wiht hydro assist.. they have a hard enough time with the stock steering.

You won't be able to run Hyro assist with IFS. opening up a restrictor valve in the pump will not increase pressure, only flow. If you increase pressure be prepared to replace your steering box after you snap the sector shaft. I run 36 x 12.5 TSLs on beadlocks at 3 psi and i can still turn. (locked to) go to the gym and build some muscles. or are you sure your pump isn't on its way out?

ya, thats normal. a new switch is about 75 bucks. I've changed mine. How many people have had to change it?

what rear end is it? if there is a crush sleave inside, you can't just change it, you have to pull it all apart and reset the bearin preload. (you can, but it won't last)

my odometer hasn';t worked in 10 years.. speedo works.. but i don't care

gotcha.. somehow I missed that.

why are you going to pull a strong axle out and put a weak one in? the H233B is much stronger than a D44

very lucky

http://intercotire.com/site30.php thees will do.

so, 100% more cost justifies 5% more life? Just saying. i wouldnt buy a belt from a nissan dealer. @!*%, i've only changed mine once in 14 years.

There are professionals for this. But what you have to do, is heat it till it STARTS to melt, and use a filler material to fill in the crack. a big soldering iron works best.

you can weld plastic.. same idea and principle as acetelen welding

everything under my rig is bashed up.. all it would take is a branch to come up and stab a hole in it and leave you dead in the water. as far as cooling. I have only had a overheating issue once.. and thats because i was only getting 2 gallons of coolant throught the rad. I have no Shroud, and my font end is blocked off by a winch and exo stuff. my manual tranny overheats when snow wheeling) but NEVER the engine. I stand by my original comment.. the oil finter on the tranny cross member is a bad idea.. if it works for you GREAT! But i would never recommend it.

actually i have to disagree. My2002 power stroke deisel with electric controlled T-case (not pushbutton, but a 3 possitoin switch onthe dash) is harder to get into 4x4 than my pathy..

I normally keep it between 3-4k, but sometimes, when your stuck between 2 rocks a tree and a hard place, you just gotta giver.. in this vid i was revving up to around 4-5k in some places.

i've ran mine up to 6 many times. (usually when stuck in reverse and need wheel spin to clear the tires) at 4k, that engine will just laugh.. no issues.

are you saying to relocate your oil filter to the transmission cross member? That doesn't sound like a very good idea to me.. Keep it in the engine compartment where it belongs

Probably your input shaft seal on the tranny.. its done in my 87, i gotta fill her up every few trips.. its gonna get changed soon.. its a 14 dollar part, but if your IFS.. its a big job. I'm solid axle and don't have to drop any suspension components or cross members.

it can be done i know... what i'm looking for is how much and if anybody has had experience. sure i can't put it out 90 deg then i'd be smashing things up. If you look at the Z forums they do this commonly but htey are up for mor HP not low end torque I'd just take them off, set them on my machine and re-drill as necessary. depending on how much.