87pathy

doesn't take much. it may or may not be the problem. I am Anti addative crap in my engine.

you should hook it to a thermostat and constant power. so that when you shut the engine off, it continues to cool. but automatically shuts down with either a switch, or thermostat

you oil is probably thin from the seafoam. and bypassing the rings or seals

wow, those tires and 5:89 gears. that danna 44 is hating life. the pinion head is gonna be about the same size as the head of my......... and that ain't very big

so many people asking questions about SAS's these days. most of the questions are general mechanics questions. if you cannot answer them yourself, you have no business doing it. not just a dig on you soccerstud.. but the others as well. Stand back and look at the geometry, do you think the rear suspension would work? or something simliar to it? why not post up some of your ideas and ask for advice. not just.. will the same suspension in the back work inthe front. simple answer, NO.

actually after looking closer at it.. I wouldn't wheel it at all, those are leaves int he back with massive lift blocks. and the front is just a complete sub frame under teh front end... oh well, to each their own. it was probably more capable stock.

not enough ponies for the dunes either, unless its got a SBC in it

I run 36's (and will be 38's) on half that amount of lift.

it looks nice, but its useless as an offroad rig. too big for trails, not enough power for mud bogs

vids are going to be a while.. i'm heading out of town before a shakedown run. I just had to get this done before a big trip i have comming this winter. Hope to get he shifters done thiw week.

you can get the plastic clips at any autoparts store.

crawler box installed and Stak installed here is the really cool part. my old driveshaft, Minus the 1330 flange (just removed the flange to run a straght YOKE (changed the caps, as the 1330S is 1 1/16" cap at the closed yoke end and 1 1/8" at the "YOKE" end. so it saved me lots of money.. no new rear drive shaft or retubing necessary started on the shifters. I could not find any brake yokes that were short or corse thread, so i bought each of these and cut htem down, and re-threaded the end from 7/16 unf to 1/2" unc. (very little space and just enough to work) LIKE A GLOVE. all in all it has taken me about 22 hours of work to get to this point. enjoy.

1 of the shifters is now gone. so remove the spring and bearing, remove the locking Pill, and weld up the rocker. crawler box complete

One of the things i had to do was use this big bearing for the main output of the crawler box. It had a oil retaining seal built into it. This was to keep oil IN the back half of the transfer case. But with the new arangement, it would have Kept oil OUT of the bearing.. so i pulled out the seal and ran it without. (it was only on 1 side of the bearing) gears on the new shaft ready to go. i had to improvise a bit as this was designed for stock gears and the 3.7:1 gears covered the aft mounting holes. No big deal, i pulled the shaft back out, installed the "adaptor?" put the shaft back in, put hte retaining clip in THROUGH the adaptor, and then pressed the seal back in.

Well, here it is. started with a wheelable vehicle saturday morning. Out comes the transfer case. another shot a little side by side of the nissan Tx-10 and hte new stak D300 back end of the case opened up I didn't have a proper press to get the main shaft componenets off, so a splitting maul and cinder blocks worked well.. sorry no picks of hammering. but look at the size of the nissan stuff.

sounds like a detonation problem, check all 700 spark plug wires and make sure your coils are hooked up properly. other than that.. i do't know.

yes the 4.56 will work with the 4.63's barely but yes. the radius arms are OK. I would prefer and will be doing a long arm. if you go long arm get them for a xj, wj ect (cherokee). not for a wrangler. wrong wheelbase and they won't work right.

Well, Last weekend i failed a rear axle bearing. so this weekend instead of going wheeling (new curries 9" shafts are going on order next week!) I decided i need to get this done for the anual february wheeling / camping trip. specs are Nissan TBI V6 with lots of miles Stock nissan 5 speed. Stock nissan TX -10 with 3.7:1 low range (turned into a reduction box) Stak Dana 300 drivers drop with stock 2.62:1 gears. (twin stick of course) Overall crawl ratios will be as show below. photo's after the weekend!

thanks man... a little spendy though, I can get mounts off the net (stock) for 60 each I'll see. I want to go all poly in my drive train. I could make my own, i just don't have time.

that will be fine, its actuall 1.5%

there really isn't a good way to test them. You can put it on an OHM meter but its not a 100% test. If its all over the place, it might be OK.. If it gives a steady reading its NFG.

Does anybody know a source for Poly motor mounts for the first gen pathy's? thanks

I'd be willing to bet that its a BAD mass air flow sensor. does the engine fall on its face when you try to accelerate? i just had the EXACT same problem with a buddies 4runner, changed the MAF sensor and walla.. its all goo now.

that would work, only issue is that you want your pan hard as paralel with the world as possible. I know its not always possible to do this. the more of an angle it has, the more it will pull side to side with flex.

man, Im helping, not doing ALL the research for you. got google? type in waggy 44044. see what you get