adamzan

Yes, used them for the fans on my brothers vw. No complaints.

You need fuel injection hose clamps. Your rubber hoses are probably still good so re use those. See if you can use the attachment points on the frame unless the bolts are all snapped. You don't want to screw anything into the floor of the truck. I would zip tie them to the brake lines. You can get a cheap tube bender at CT for 10 dollars or so. I have one but you can bend it by hand pretty easily and its mostly a long straight run anyway.

Run your own lines, cheaper, faster, and readily available. My good friends brother is a mechanic (he owns his own shop now) says he always replaces rusted metal lines with nylon ones. But I think you need a special tool for that, so just get a roll of metal line, they come in 25 foot rolls.

Yes it is your blower motor. There is probably leaves and other crap in there. Take it out and clean/inspect.

While that is not the most glamorous way to repair the lines, I have done the same thing and had it pass inspection here. The thing I see wrong is they used regular worm gear clamps and not fuel injection clamps. The part up by your exhaust looks stock to me, and that hose that is open is the drain for the A/C evaporator. It's fine. That definitely looks like a rear main seal leak to me. Mine was like that when it was leaking, let me see if i I have a pic. Here you go. This is at the point where the trans was pulled back, and I have an AT, but you get the idea.

Check your flex hoses, one could be collapsed.

Bring it to my house and I'll do it for you lol. Never did fix the parking brake. The discs are fairly easy to work on. One bolt and the caliper flips up. If it doesnt move easily you need to slid it off the pin sand the rust off and lube it with brake grease. Dont use anti seize or anything like that.

Any part store will be able to get you one for pretty cheap. It will come with 2 end seals and two tubes of rtv

Do you have a napa or other parts store around you? You can buy universal metal fuel line (it comes in rolls) to replace the bad ones. You don't need to buy them at the dealer.

You don't need to replace the snap rings, just re use the ones you take off. The o ring on the hub should stay with the hub when you pull it off, don't worry about that. Snap ring pliers at CT will work for this job (i have the mastercraft ones)

Yep. I did it once with some help.

In my opinion when a mechanic says its not worth it, either they are lazy or they must be retarded because they are turning down business in today's economy. I suppose there are honest ones out there but when they just bluntly tell you your car is a pos buy a new one, well fskc you. I had this happen once. Took it somewhere else and they were able to get me sorted for half the cost and just as good of a repair.

That sensor is for the ECU, won't affect the gauge at all. Are you sure there is even anything wrong, does it put out good heat? If it does I wouldn't worry about it. The gauge sensors almost never fail, at least I've never seen a report on here of one breaking. These gauges do tend to read low anyway.

You'll need a pair of snap ring pliers to take the, of course, snap ring, off after you remove the hubs.

I would just adjust and repack the bearings if they spin smooth. For the bumper maybe hit up a wrecking yard. Fuel line you can buy at napa and the like, I bought a 25 foot roll of metal fuel line for like 12 bucks. Then you just flare the ends and clamp the hose on. For the rear main seal I bought mine at nissan and it was about 40 dollars. The front main seal is behind the timing belt so you'd need at least a new timing belt, which wouldn't hurt to do anyways if you plan on keeping it, and after putting all that time into it to pass inspection, it would be a shame if the belt broke. Pulling the trans doesn't take any special tools, on mine I know I needed a lot of extensions. A torque wrench is also handy. For the seal itself you wanna be real careful not to scratch the crank or it will leak forever even with new seal. You can get repair sleeves though. Don't let anyone talk you into throwing a new motor at it just because of that.

On the 95 there are two sensors in the upper coolant hose neck of the intake manifold, one is for the ECU it has a yellow connector and there is the one for the gauge which has a 1 pin spade style connector. Your temp gauge only going up 1/8 of the way is more likely a thermostat issue.

For the bumper, put the one from your other pathfinder on. CV axles should not fail an inspection, they only turn in 4wd. At least they won't fail a safety here. It probably needs an alignment and a tire balance. You can adjust the wheel bearings pretty easily, look in the FSM. It might be causing the pull and part of the wobble. The daytime running lights, pull the module and re solder all the joints, or pull the one from your other pathfinder. Or wire the low beams to come on with the ignition. Battery hold down and belts are easy to do, get them at part source or somthing. They have universal battery hold downs that work just fine, or take the one off your other pathy. You can get lifetime warranty cv shafts at partsource or CT. I just got remanufactured ones though, they work and fit fine. Unless it is pissing oil I don't see why it would fail for that. If it is the rear main you need to slide the transmission back to change it. About an 8 hour job. Easier if you have a 5 speed than an auto.

I think most gauge issues are a connection problem, every single one I've encountered was temporarily fixed with a good whack on the dash with my fist.

The most likely vac line you would have disturbed if any, is the one for the fuel pressure regulator. If you look back where the number 6 plug wire goes, you'll see it. Mine fell off once and it ran funny.

I have a gates belt on mine, and used a dayco on my friends xterra (same belt). Both have the timing lines on it and work just like the factory ones.

What plugs did you use? Also what brand of wires did you use? Did they seat tight against the plugs? Also I would wiggle all the sensor connectors while its running to see if it makes a difference, You could have moved something by accident, or hit it with your elbow.

I pulled out a stuck titan with mine yesterday lol. 4hi no wheelspin

I know that the 4wd version will bolt right in (I have one) but I don't know about the 2wd. I would think it would.

It is 5/16". Fairly common hose you can buy anywhere.

The fsm says it has to flash more than five times in ten seconds. So yea pretty fast.