adamzan

Have you changed the cabin air filter?

When I did ball joints on an r50 I only had to remove the snap ring so I could wiggle the cv.

Check to see if it has the tubular front control arms. If so, grab them.

The coils on that pathfinder don't look stock...I would take a good look at those instead.

Wow, hope you changed the inner bearing at the same time! Along with the races. Never seen that happen on a wd21 before, and I'm pretty sure mine has the original bearings.

What does the fluid look like? Is it full? It should be a reddish pink colour. I know mine is a little sluggish when cold, but I'm talking Canadian winter cold... I would drop the pan and change the filter, it will give you a good idea if anything is going on in there.

Yea, my other pathy, the tach was effed, so I took apart a spare gauge cluster that I had and turns out you can remove the screws on the backside that hold the individual gauges in. So I swapped it and was able to retain the correct mileage on the odometer.

You can actually change the gauges out separately. The tach and speedo/odo units at least.

You mean the bypass hose? The one behind the timing belt covers? You can get those anywhere. It's called the bypass hose, basically an elbow.

There is a controller or amplifier or whatever nissan calls it for the auto climate control. I think its above where the pedals are somewhere. I remember my friend's pathy had that break on his. And it had similar symptoms. The fan worked but nothing else.

I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but I'm pretty sure the pulley marks go like this 0 5 10 15 20 25 30. At least on mine, with the 7 mark pulley, the first line is TDC, and all the timing marks line up at that mark.

Could be the oil pressure switch wire, look to the left of the oil filter and see.

I just came in to add, do not reuse the timing belt. If you re tension an old belt the risk of it failing is greatly increased. They are cheap enough that its not worth the chance. Good luck. It's fairly simple once you figure it out.

The front tires are stock size. The rears are an XE size.

Bringing this back as I believe I figured it out. I went to change my diff fluid a few weeks ago and the fluid that came out was all nasty and grey, which leads me to believe water got in at some point. I changed it out with some 80w90 and a tube of LSD additive. All seems well at the moment. FWIW the fluid that was in there was barely a year old.

Sounds like bad torque converter to me. I would drain the fluid and remove the pan. It might tell you something. It may look fresh because the previous owner changed it trying to fix it.

I have a couple people out your way keeping an eye out. The next one I buy will stay stock and not get wheeled. Just babied and driven around. I will keep my white one for offroading.

I am willing to pay up to 3000 for the "right" one. My requirements are no rust, less than 250,000km, 5 speed, never been wheeled, and stock. Oh and it also must be able to make the drive home hahaha.

Please don't crush my dreams of flying out there and driving a mint one home!

Lol both my trucks came with matching locks

It's probably the rear trailing arm bushings, most likely the lower ones. Crawl under and see if you can move them.

Does the weather have any effect on it?.My old 95 did this after a wind shield change. It turns out where the trim bolts down on the side of the glass, the threaded inserts were deformed and let water come in. Not saying this is where yours is leaking but maybe you have a leak somewhere.

That looks real nice. Now make sure you get it oil sprayed!

The timing belt is actually due every 105k on the 94-95 models. But still, if it's never been changed, it needs to be done asap. I would do the timing belt yourself if you are willing. It's not that hard and it would probably save you 500-800 dollars. As for the oil leaks, check the valve covers, and if they're wet, try and tighten the screws slightly as this may help. If you see oil coming down between the oil pan and tranny, it is probably the rear main seal, and the tranny would have to come off to replace that, so that is the kind of thing you'd do when you change the clutch, which is probably ruined because of the rear main leak. I would crawl around under there yourself and make sure you know whats leaking. The shop may be trying to pull a fast one on you.

The o2 sensor is in the intermediate pipe so I don't know why you would have to touch the headers. Unless your mechanic put the o2 sensor in one of the headers, that would cause a alot of issues.