adamzan

Ypu can buy all the hangers from rock auto or any parts store.

Just avoid the cheap 20 dollar pad sets and you should be fine. I am thinking about going with the Hawk pads next time around. I usually just use the Monroe stuff because it works great, doesn't make noise, and is reasonably priced (about $50 a set locally).

Pull the fuse for your rear wiper and see if it stays charged.

I know it should be somewhere in the middle if the distributor is installed right.

That's actually pretty cool. I was expecting this thread to be "I'm a cheap redneck and I bypassed the ignition because it broke" kinda deal. Good job.

He's probably noticing the torque converter unlocking/locking.

Yea get a good used nissan one and throw new boots on it. I have a cardone on one side and it started a driveline vibration after I put it in.

Wait until you have to change the rotors. I am planning on running my current pads/rotors to (almost) the metal. The PO said that was the 2nd set of pads on those discs, and they have noticeable ridges at the edge.

Yes they are the same. I think most of the newer nissans have a SES light. My wd21 it is a little picture of an engine with "check" in the middle of it.

I have a code reader if you want to meet up and use mine? CEL that comes on and off randomly is usually evap related from what I've seen. Not a big deal.

I don't know how people have trouble with those...I just let the truck run for a bit to heat up the pipe, use a 22mm (or 7/8) wrench after I cut the wire off. and it comes off no problem. Even here in salt zone ontario.

It's the same belt, too.

Why did you even take that apart in the first place? There is no need to separate the pulley and the balancer...

Sounds like a distributor. They are common to fail on the vg33.

It's actually a bunch of leds soldered to a board. Kind of sweet actually.

Last winter mine seized on and was making my heat, well not so hot. I drove without it or any fan for over a week and the temp stayed the same. Then again it was -20.

Looks good to me.

First I would double check that shift linkage. It may have completely went at that time. If that doesn't help it I'm sorry to say you're probably in for a rebuild or a new trans. I've had mine in limp mode before. And reverse will still work in limp mode.

Got my frame repaired this weekend. Was really hoping I wouldn't have to go through this whole ordeal again, but the passengers side spring perch started to tear off of the frame rail. We pulled the gas tank and plated the whole frame. It'll last forever now.

I installed some acdelco ones in our old r50 and they lasted for years, right until it got traded in. Got them on rock auto.

Try and pull in the cv shaft from the back side so it sticks out further. It moves without the snap ring on. You have a copy of the service manual, right? Free download in the garage section.

The one in my friends xterra stays on longer than normal as well. It has a wierd rattle from the passengers side head too... Mine is starting to stay on longer. Though it is real cold and I haven't changed my oil in 8k

I got quoted at 700+ parts for mine. Paid someone cash to do it instead...of course the tranny died 14 months later

This just happened to me on my other pathy. It sat for 2 weeks without starting. Battery is now fskced. It was probably 5 months old, too.

When it actually does engage reverse, does it slip at all? If not you may just have a dirty valve body. On my old 95 I ran two cans of seafoam trans tune and flushed it really well. It fixed the issue and I drove it for years with flawless shifting until I sold it. My current 94 reverse dropped out of it when I was trying to get un stuck. It would not work at all and if you revved it in reverse it would just move very very slowly and any little incline would act like neutral. I had to replace the tranny. So I would try a good flush and change the filter as well. If that doesn't fix it, throw an xterra trans in.