adamzan

Ontario has the worst speed limits in the country. It's 80 in most places where 90 or even 100 is perfectly safe. All highways are 100 but you will never get a ticket unless you are going over 120 (not that I do since the truck is too thirsty at that speed). They should just raise the limit and be more strict with enforcement like they are in the US. The limit going down to Florida from here is usually 65-75 but if you stray even a couple mph over that they will nab you. Here you get those retards that will stay in the far left lane going 90 in a 100kph zone and purposely slow you down since they think they should control what speed you drive at. I think 7" of lift is pushing it for the stock suspension geometry. You might want to look into the adjustable trailing arms.

Just rotate it and it will come right out. I forget which way though.

With it idling pull off one plug wire at a time (and then put it back) and see which one makes no difference.

You could always take the tires off and see if there is an imprint on the rotor that is kind of in the shape of the brake pad. I have seen this a lot and its from people who slam on the brakes at the last moment and hold them there at a red light.

We set a cold record last night apparently. Coldest its been since march 2007.

I think It will run fine without the manual ecm. But it might not cost that much to pull the one from the donor. Transfer case I'm not sure about, I would just grab the whole deal from the other truck and use that. Then you don't have to mess with splitting the two. They are all tx-10 though unless you have the electric switch and not the floor lever. My auto and tcase weighed probably 250+ lbs. It took 3 of us to lift it and the new one.

I would second the suggestion of warped rotors. Also make sure nothing is loose. Like the uca to frame bolts. The rotors on my brothers golf pulse only under braking from high speeds. Around town you never noticed.

80w90 gear oil. Anything will work.

My front ones have a big ass ridge on the inside edge. I am going to just run the pads to metal and replace both parts. I should really repack the bearings and replace the grease seals as well anyways.

How much are they for you? I can get white box ones for 24 dollars a piece. Ones I have now i think i bought at crap tire for a little more. They were Wagners though.

I asked about getting them turned here and both places I went to said don't bother because i can buy new ones for the same cost as the labour to machine them. Although how much work is it to measure and throw it on a lathe.

Heat up the o2 sensor and replace it. It will make your mileage terrible and not set a light when they go bad. Bad enough to affect things but not bad enough to set the light. You can just let the engine run for 10 minutes and get the pipe hot, I've never had a problem getting one out that way. Good luck.

The rear rotors are so cheap I just throw new ones on every brake job.

What is parrel? Did you mean peril? Yes check the o2 sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. They usually cause crappy running.

The wreckers or a part out? I have not found an aftermarket source.

If it's "as is", you're out of luck. A broken coil is not the end of the world.

I think the screw in things for the shade changed in late 94/early 95. Some are threaded while others are a half turn click in type thing like the xterra. The tint on the xterra glass is much nicer. I am tempted to find one and swap it in to mine.

If 4x4 and just doing the clutch you don't need to remove the t-bars fully. you can just unbolt the crossmember and pull it down a bit so the tcase can clear. All you really need to do is slide the trans back far enough.

If your timing marks are lined up. Slide the pulley on. Then bolt the outer piece on with the left most timing mark at the pointer.

And get it aligned.

Headlights would be easy. Just find an ignition switched source and wire it to the trigger of the low beam relay.

I have the digital trip meter as well and it works fine in the cold. I would check connections and maybe tighten the brass screws on the back of the cluster. They're the ground points.

the only place ive found them is ac as well

I don't even have a rear sway bar. Although I do miss it at times. Mine flexes so much now it mushed in the rear fender lips

Driveshaft hitting it? I see signs that mine has too. I just ignore it lol.