adamzan

Not today but recently, pulled the intake plenum, replaced 1 bad injector and tested the rest. Also replaced the IACV with a known good used unit. Still have a slight hesitation when stone cold when you just touch the throttle, but over all running much better. Also fixed a loose header bolt, back to no exhaust leaks. That EGR pipe is still a bitch to install/remove lol

I'm not sure if you've tried this, but like Slart said, make sure the antenna is connected. The actual ground for these is chassis or the antenna. I always added a ground to one of the screws in the area to ensure a good connection. Like he said as well, make sure there are no damaged wires that could be shorting and blowing fuses.

I'd pull the headliner, then sit inside of it while someone blasts it with a hose. Simply pouring water from a bucket might not be enough force. On my old 1994, someone had installed an Xterra rack and it leaked around the riv-nuts they used, I had to take it all apart and seal it with proper automotive grade sealant. But pulling the headliner you'd see traces of where it came from, most likely.

It looks like someone hastily threw a transmission or a clutch in it, and was careless with the wiring. The FSM should help you decipher which connectors go where. Check the Electrical and transmission sections. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

You could get to them with the trans off, that's a lot of work but if you have other leaks, might be the best 2 birds with 1 stone approach. Here's what mine looked like when I pulled the transmission on my old 1994 to replace with an Xterra trans. You can see there is some decent room there:

That's interesting to know... I grabbed that part when I scrapped my old 1995, but my current one has the power antenna. My old 1994 had some ford looking one that a body shop installed, the reception was never great in that truck. The Antenna in the windshield also helps, not sure if the 1990's had that or not but my 93,94,95 all did. Probably some of the best radio reception I've ever had in a car.

I used a couple of 90 degree 5/8" (I think) hoses with a brass coupler to join the 2. Not elegant but better than the cracked one causing a vacuum leak.

That's good to hear... I actually just replaced an injector and the IAC on my 1995 this weekend. Still have a ton of parts from my old 94 so I used those, I'll trust used OEM over new aftermarket these days. And also solved a long standing annoying as hell idle issue.

If you're just swapping the pads, just undo the one bolt and swing the caliper up. No need to do any more. I stocked up on a couple sets of rotors as they are getting harder to get up here.

It's a 2015, so whatever motor that is, but the dipstick looks identical.

My parents have a maxima with the 3.5 and it does the same thing. Only reliable way to check how much is in the sump is to check it cold. I know people hate the old 3.0/3.3 dipsticks but they somehow made it worse on the VQ engines lol.

Same here in Ontario. I personally know 2 people that own one in the Toronto area but here in Ottawa I've not seen one on the road regularly in years. But did see a really clean 2 door on the Quebec side last summer. I got one that was originally from the west coast so rust is minimal, but it was hit head on while parked in my messing driveway, so currently rebuilding that... But park it for the winter.

It was common on the 92 and older models to have the voltage reg go on the cluster causing the fuel/temp gauges to go crazy or not work. I'd check that first as it is fairly trivial to repair. There are some posts on it in this forum. The sending unit I never had good luck with used ones so I bit the bullet and bought a new one from Nissan. Absolutely insane that no one makes an aftermarket for these.

Nice work! My guess would have been the leads on the top of the sending unit getting corroded, but not sure how bad the rust on cars is where you are. It was a fairly common problem but once replaced never happened again.

I could never find it either, but one of those body shop supply stores that can scan the paint and mix up a can should be able to help you out?

In theory all you'd need to do for the 300zx one is swap the tail housing and output shaft, but I don't know what other internal things they changed. Also the gear ratios may be different and not as applicable to a truck application.

I still have to get mine repaired after a prolonged submersion killed it last summer. But it was rock solid for years before that.

Have you verified the timing belt is set correctly? If you need to be sure, it should be 40 teeth between the camshaft marks and 43 between drivers cam and the crank. This is with it set at TDC for #1 cylinder.

This. Don't bother with the aftermarket ones unless you are ready to replace them every year. I think I have changed the one in my brother's 3.3L frontier 4 or 5 times now.

Good luck! I have mine on classic car insurance here, dropped it to about $250 CAD a year. Crazy cheap. I didn't register it with the province as historic as they put stupid restrictions on when and where you can drive it.

One thing to mention is these trucks can't tell if an individual injector is bad, so you'll have to test them all if you haven't already. They should all be around 12-14ohms. The engine temp sensor can definitely cause issues, it's the 2 wire one at the upper rad hose neck. They are cheap enough I'd probably toss a new one at it if the wiring checks out ok. With all those codes it sounds like there could be chewed wires? I would check the harness for any spots that look suspect. You can test the temp sensor by putting it in water at a certain temp and measuring the resistance I believe. The details are in the service manual. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

The salt up here means all but a handful are gone. I genuinely get excited when seeing another one on the road. Can go almost a year or more without seeing another wd21 here in Ontario. I have a couple friends that still have them. But we don't drive them in the winter. My current one originally came from Vancouver BC. Last one I saw in the junkyard in my town had to be almost 5 years ago at least.

This is very interesting. I always had this issue on all my trucks, and even if you cut out the rot and welded new in, it would come back over a few years. Will be taking a look at mine when I replace the fuel tank in the coming weeks.

Any bolt on the intake will be grounded, there is one near the front to the left of the distributor that has some ground wires already, you could unbolt it and add an extra eyelet terminal there. Or just go straight to the negative terminal of the battery. Inside the truck any of the metal brackets should be grounded under the dash. I believe I used the cigarette lighter circuit when I did this on mine years ago. That will be ignition switched 12v as well. As for the light, you should be able to tap into the wire that dims the radio lights. If you look in the service manual it will have the correct diagram.

The original wire clamps worked the best, you never had to go back and tighten them up like the worm drive ones after the car sat for a while or during the change of the seasons, of course mine were all rusted so I replaced them with worm clamps as that was all that was available at the time locally. Newer cars use the spring ones, if you have the right pliers for it they're fine and you can usually lock them open. Personally I'm partial to these, can make any adjustments on the fly.