adamzan

No sure why you would do that on an r50. The drums are huge and work well. On a wd21 sure, the drums are smaller, and there is a noticeable difference in braking power. Source; have had many Nissan's over the years.

Light not shutting off is probably the hatch switch. Wrap some tape around the striker and see if they go off. If so that is your issue. The "fix" is to take the striker off and put a couple washers under it.

I have never changed the bearings on my 1994 Pathfinder. I have 267k miles. I just repack them with grease every other year. These aren't like newer vehicles with non-serviceable hub bearings. To be honest I would just pull them off and if they look good put them back with fresh lube. Changing them requires banging out or pressing out the races. I am willing to put money on it the shop just felt a little play and called them bad. Had that happen to me a few times over the years when getting alignments.

Are you sure it actually needs bearings? A lot of the time they can be re greased and adjusted.

Yes it is keyed so it will only go on one way. Unless you separated the two pieces. Which I never understand why people do, it doesn't have anything to do with the tbelt job.

Timing belt could have slipped. Check ignition timing. New distributor or used?

The radio is common to fail. You can have it repaired (not sure if it is worth it), or replace it with a good used one. Personally I would just get an aftermarket. They aren't that expensive and it will stay working!

You're right. And if you want a good example of the ignorance, check out the NPORA facebook group.

Find a mechanic who is not a retard. That or do it yourself. Take the heat shield off, you'll be able to see right away if there is broken studs.

That would make sense as the revolution sensor is on the top of the trans. Best bet is to hit up a junkyard and see if you can rob that connector off of another one. Make sure to get enough wire so you can solder the two together. Year won't matter as even the newer r50 and Xterra have the same transmission. FWIW the o2 sensor has 2 black and 1 white wire, or the other way around, but there is no red wire in the o2 harness.

While you're probably right, I don't have the kind of tools to do that. I wonder how many pathfinders that have had CV shafts replaced with aftermarket parts, or had the bearings repacked, (this would impact the distance) if the mechanics in garages went to the trouble to replace the snap rings? I wish I could say everyone but few probably do.

It's not the solenoids. If it was no amount of revving would make reverse engage. Your trans is worn out, unfortunately. Happened to me as well, I replaced it, and all is well now.

These pictures also demonstrate the clear difference in a wheeled, and non wheeled truck.

It sounds like a bad lifter. If it is bad, no amount of ATF will clean it up. That usually only works for old sludged up tickers... I would take the valve covers off and inspect. There is a way to tell by pressing on them if they are bad. I have never done it but I have seen it done before.

The ones with the small metal rods that go over the headlights are the aftermarket manik or westin version. Can't remember. Not sure why anyone wants them all they do is bend the fskc out of your fenders if you hit anything.

Check the distributor. They're a common failure on the VG33.

I would find a good used one and swap it in. Probably the cheapest and quickest option. Otherwise a rebuild at a local trans shop would work. At least there you'd get a warranty. They don't tend to fail or otherwise have issues if the cooler is bypassed.

That happened to mine too. Eventually the boot just fell off on one side after cracking...I just keep them greased often for now. I haven't found a "fix".

Some quick googling showed me that there is a 180 and 195F thermostat available. So I guess around that temp is what it should be? Have you verified the gauge isn't just wrong?

It should run at 750 give or take 50 rpm. That is what the service manual says. You can adjust it but it requires unplugging a connector so you're not fighting the ecu.

This^ if you take the rad cap off the coolant should slowly rise and spill out as it warms up. There may be air trapped. On my 95 it would not stop bubbling, and it was a lot of bubbles. It's normal for there to a be a few every so often but if it is a constant stream that is bad. My 95 had a headgasket that leaked exhaust into the coolant. If you started it up cold, the coolant would fly out of the rad like the old faithful geyser.

Hurry up before I scrap it lol.

Come harvest from my parts truck...

They make a thing for that, it's called a torque wrench.

I didn't see you mention the thermostat. Seems like the only thing you haven't checked. It may be preventing full flow to the radiator.