adamzan

On mine the distributor was kind of effed up in the sense that you could turn the rotor with some force and further adjust the timing. It happened after a t-belt change and It must have been whacked. But it didn't stall. But moving it a tooth will move it way past the normal range.

You could probably nab one from a junkyard truck or maybe a part out on here?

They were made for them exclusively. I never saw them anywhere else. They are great vehicles but aftermarket support always sucked.

Can you post a pic of what you mean? If it's a VG30 they don't have a vaccum cannister. If you mean the big black cylinder it is the Evap charcoal cannister.

Something like this would work to fix the spade connector (a female one obviously lol). The temp gauge on these usually sits at 1/4-1/3 during normal temp anyway. The OE thermostat is only 170F (there is an alternate 180F).

3+3=33s with the right offset just means you don't have to do any trimming. If you don't care about trimming your fenders a bit and it's just a wheeler, then you can put 33s on just a 3" lift. I had 35"s on mine with the 3+3 for a while. Don't crank the tbars too high it just rides like crap and wears tires like it burns gas.

Wow, this is looking great! I think I've only ever seen 1 other SAS r50, and the amount of work to overcome what would be pretty simple if it were body on frame, is pretty impressive. IDK if you ever found an upgraded radiator, but they do make all aluminum ones that bolt in now for the WD21 and WD22. This one "claims" it fits up to 04... I bought one for my 1995 as an upgrade after it was hit in front. https://www.ebay.com/itm/355939610930

You want to use all the VG30E fuel injection stuff. Mr.510 used to make an adapter for the crank so you could run your VG30 accessories on the VG33 but that will likely not work if you want to use the blower off of the ER. Unfortunately while many people have done it, this won't be a quick weekend project to drive back after the holidays, unless you're super mechanically inclined, then I might be mistaken. If you're having trouble finding an engine have you checked car-part.com? The VG30E was in the early 90s maxima, quest/villager van, and D21 pickup as well.

I suppose if they installed a crappy aftermarket or reman rack it could be bad, but you'd think any competent mechanic could tell the difference unless they're just trying to drum up business. Interesting that they installed new inner tie rods in 2020, the ones that came with the new rack were already bad? New steering racks usually come with new inner tie rods as the boots are preinstalled. Sounds like someone could have been taking advantage of the old owner. If you don't see any leaks right now, it could be it was never cleaned up from previous leaks.

Being a 96, it'll be a VG33E, they don't have the oil cooler leak issue the 3.5L have. IIRC the sender for the oil light is bolted in right around that area, it isn't uncommon for those things to fail and leak on older vehicles of all makes. As for the rack, if the boots are torn and it was letting road silt and grime in there, that can make the seals fail in short order. Is it leaking PS fluid as well or is it just loose? The mount bushings were a huge problem especially on the side where the oil filter is... You see where I'm going with this lol. I would call around to a few other garages, maybe ask some friends if they have a trustworthy guy.

You absolutely can, @Slartibartfast. I've done it for all 3 pulleys on my Xterra.

If it's just a stock truck with OE sized tires, there's no real benefit from the steering damper. There's the oe style with the stud and there is the aftermarket ones that the heavier duty stabilizers come with, those do make a difference on a lifted wd21.

Good lord, I'm seeing the post from what I assume is the same guy on the forums. So much misinformation on there! I replied there too @Path1204

Did you check this out? https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F1993%2FCapacities.pdf Here is a screencap from the 1994 manual, looks the same. The 4wd use a different casing which I would assume makes it take more. You can also measure (roughly) what you drain out of it so you have an idea of how much was in it. If it's lasted this long and isn't doing the whine of death (like my 4wd is lol)...

You would need to change out the Pitman arm to the different taper size IIRC. Rockauto seems to have all of the front end parts at a reasonable price for a 1991. The ball joints are all the same, though as well as the sway bar links. I would get it in the air and check what parts actually have play in them, and grease any zerks you find (there are bolts that can be removed on the factory joints to install zerks). Replacing old tie rods, etc that aren't worn (tbh I would hold onto those original parts as long as you can because the new stuff is crap) won't improve the ride at all. Make sure the steering stops are greased up, they are a big source for front end noise. Check the tension rod (also called strut rod) bushings, they can cause some funny handling and the hole in the frame is usually slogged out from them being loose. There are numerous threads on it here. Make sure your tires are not 30 years old, and are the proper load range, as well as balanced properly. If you are going to replace it all, try and stick with name brand parts, there's been a few people here over the years that regretted buying those ebay style kits. You just end up replacing it again and again.

I would get the acdelco or moog ones off of rockauto.

What did you do to keep your cruise control?

Not today but recently, pulled the intake plenum, replaced 1 bad injector and tested the rest. Also replaced the IACV with a known good used unit. Still have a slight hesitation when stone cold when you just touch the throttle, but over all running much better. Also fixed a loose header bolt, back to no exhaust leaks. That EGR pipe is still a bitch to install/remove lol

I'm not sure if you've tried this, but like Slart said, make sure the antenna is connected. The actual ground for these is chassis or the antenna. I always added a ground to one of the screws in the area to ensure a good connection. Like he said as well, make sure there are no damaged wires that could be shorting and blowing fuses.

I'd pull the headliner, then sit inside of it while someone blasts it with a hose. Simply pouring water from a bucket might not be enough force. On my old 1994, someone had installed an Xterra rack and it leaked around the riv-nuts they used, I had to take it all apart and seal it with proper automotive grade sealant. But pulling the headliner you'd see traces of where it came from, most likely.

It looks like someone hastily threw a transmission or a clutch in it, and was careless with the wiring. The FSM should help you decipher which connectors go where. Check the Electrical and transmission sections. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

You could get to them with the trans off, that's a lot of work but if you have other leaks, might be the best 2 birds with 1 stone approach. Here's what mine looked like when I pulled the transmission on my old 1994 to replace with an Xterra trans. You can see there is some decent room there:

That's interesting to know... I grabbed that part when I scrapped my old 1995, but my current one has the power antenna. My old 1994 had some ford looking one that a body shop installed, the reception was never great in that truck. The Antenna in the windshield also helps, not sure if the 1990's had that or not but my 93,94,95 all did. Probably some of the best radio reception I've ever had in a car.

I used a couple of 90 degree 5/8" (I think) hoses with a brass coupler to join the 2. Not elegant but better than the cracked one causing a vacuum leak.

That's good to hear... I actually just replaced an injector and the IAC on my 1995 this weekend. Still have a ton of parts from my old 94 so I used those, I'll trust used OEM over new aftermarket these days. And also solved a long standing annoying as hell idle issue.