adamzan

Yeah these engines feel a little raspy around 3k rpm i've only ever had mine up to 5k rpm and that was an accident when i was trying to pass some moron and i floored it. its quiet at 5k rpm though

Mine goes 1/4 of the way up in city driving but these days it hardly goes over the cold bar on the highway, for obvious reasons. I've heard they give you some leeway on the tbelt by a couple thousand miles, but i wouldn't push it, doing mine this spring.

im getting anywhere in between 15-20 mpg right now, as when it snows, the mileage goes out the window, because of the idiots on the highway who can't pick a constant speed in bad weather i don't care if its 50kmh or 100kmh just keep it the same. also if you idle a lot at traffic lights, it eats up ALOT of gas. Also, i find that if i start it up let it run for a minute and jump on the highway, the mileage will suck but if i take a non 400 series highway for a bit then jump on to one it gets way better mpg. I think this is because it won't go into the final overdrive stage until its warmed up, i don't know if its normal or not but thats how it is on mine.

What did you guys end up doing with that piece of fine machinery?

i would take it to your usual mechanic, except if its the pep boys. Talk to your friends and see if they know someone good in the area. I would assume a pep boys is like canadian tire auto service up here ??? Dealer is usually more expensive but from my experience they usually do pretty good work.

I get the same crap from my friends around here, but I usually don't listen to them, because while I drive 90km a day to and from school w/o any problems, they're always having to repair their gmc sierra, or jimmy, or dodge or ford 4x4. My friend has 193k on his 90 gmc sierra (absolutely no rust though ) and he's put more money into it than what i paid to buy and safety my pathy, and he bought it with 170k a year and a half ago. Also the tires make a big difference in the snow, I currently had Goodyear wrangler radials in the front which aren't bad, but in the rear they threw on some roughrider radial AP to pass the inspection. I slide around all the time in 2wd. I still wouldn't trade my pathy's for any american product. ever.

We have a 2000, and I'd assume its an XE unless someone took all the chilkoot markings off. Its a 5 speed manual with the floor shifter. Also has an LSD and the alarm system, tinted windows from factory, the SE wheels (like pezzy's stockers) and the towing package. I think it all depends on what the original owner ordered from nissan. I've never seen another like ours.

Its what Canadian tire up here pushes as their in house brand kinda thing and the guy who had it before me said it was a quick fix b/c the originals were blown. And simon if you read this, i know what the difference between a shock and strut is.

I agree there, i have the sensatrac shocks on the front of my wd21, and they maybe have 30,000 miles on them and are about a year old and they're already mushy. Edit: oh and I don't wheel my truck, strictly on road daily driving to and from school on the highway.

But couldn't that also clean out gunk that's holding back leaky seals? Although i'd rather find out i need seals.

sorry to hear about the funeral

I have the same problem and its my exhaust. I know its loose but I haven't had time to find out where yet, but yeah when you hit bumps of certain degree, or when the engine is at a certain idle speed, it does it, well at least for me. I did find a piece of card board stuck between the second cat and the cross member though, probably someones idea of a fix

Handle like a jeep? I'm never sas'ing my pathy. The IFS is just fine for what I do.

Mine does it too and i found out a part of my exhaust is loose, i haven't looked into it much other than that though. Although someone put a piece of cardboard between the cat or whatever and the cross member so it wouldn't rattle i guess

Basically you remove the IFS from the truck and install a solid axle, like what many jeeps have, so you can get more lift and flex, and therefore, traverse greater obstacles.

Here's some more on that issue.

Theres a station around here that does that. Last time we filled up the pathy there, we thought the timing jumped 3 teeth. You wouldn't think you were driving the same truck after we dumped a sh!tload of water remover and premium fuel in.

Basically The gay-ification of the pathy *starts collecting wd21's*

I already voted my other truck but my new one will probably turn to 225,000kms in the next few days. Still runs strong and handles like new. Some rust patches starting on the body though.

And to see how clogged they really are.

Pull harder, after not using it on my truck for a long time, I had to use 2 hands and really reef on it to get it to move. Hope that works.

Thats a great idea, thanks for the tip. I'm getting bored and itching to play with my welder. And I've got lots of materials, and a truck in need of frame repair. Oh, I know someone who learned this the hard way, I hope you covered up your brake flex hose so it didn't get damage by the welding spatter.

At least your frames in one piece! Oh and one problem on my other truck when i was trying to weld my frame was trying to find a place to put that ground clamp

I'm going to do my best to keep mine the way it is, although if it were to go in a few years, i can't complain, I only paid 400 dollars for the rig. I had the mechanic doing the safety inspection check all the known wd21 rust spots, and they fixed the drivers floor and one in behind the brake pedal. Also had them take a ball peen hammer to the frame, the whole rear section. Under the rear seats I'm going to cut it out and rivet in a plate of steel and seal it up.

Simon is yours showing signs of rot already? On my new one its almost mint, just some surface rust, that I'm taking care of in the spring but im spraying oil in and around the frame weekly after I get it washed. He's lucky though, when my crossmember broke off on one side, it took a bigger chunk than that of the frame with it