adamzan

Alright thanks for the suggestions. As it stands right now, my DRL's are my high beams, and someone has run a wire from the drivers side to the passenger side, as when I unhooked it, my passenger DRL went out. I guess the module is fried and someone was too cheap/lazy/dumb to fix it. Might also be why my high beams suck... I will probably just put my lights on.

Crappy pic, but if anyone had doubts....It took 65 liters when i filled it like 5km later

Couldn't hurt to have it flushed anyways. I had mine flushed b/c it was brown, yet the shop said all fluids were "Good" and it shifted SO much better.

The low beams on my pathy work awesome, the high beams, while better than my friends cars by far, still leave a lot to be desired. I noticed that if you hold the headlamp switch half way, that you can have low and high beams on at the same time. That really helped me see better. So my question is, could I wire some kind of switch, so that I could flick it into that mode? Would that cause the wiring to overheat unless I rewire with thicker wire?

Also the ATF should be pinkish on the dipstick and smell sweet not burnt. I smelled a bottle of fresh ATF for comparison on mine when I wasn't sure.

Yeah, there is one part of it, that is a bug screen that clips over the grille, and then the winter front part is a cover that blocks the grille it pops on with buttons, like on a thin jacket. There are 2 vents that can be opened and closed like little gates, they're sealed with Velcro...

You could try checking the junkyards to see if anyone left their winter front on the truck. I have one on both my trucks, the 93 came with one and the 95 I got it from a JY for free, in mint condition too!

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com...athfinder-6.htm I know it says 90-95 but maybe it's the same problem rearing it's ugly head again...

Wow, looks like at least one owner actually cleaned their frame regularly.

Look at those rusty fenders

Only in Quebec. I heard on the radio yesterday about an accident that the guy on the radio's wife was in. He said that all 4 vehicles in the crash had winter tires on....I'm driving on bfg long trails... They are fine in the snow and are an all season tire. Winter tires do not compensate for stupidity and lack of driving skills!

The most I've ever put in was 70 liters, or 18.5 gallons...The light was on at that point.

Nice truck. Did it come with that npora sticker on the back?

There was a post around somewhere saying if the trans doesn't shift properly before warmed up it means the wrong (I.e. not nissan) fluid is being used.

mine 93 and 95 do. It glows in and out when its low ish and when it gets onto the E it stays on. At least it does in my truck. (At one point this year I couldn't afford to put 10 dollars in it)

Dealer or junkyard is the best place for this item. In my experience at least, most of the parts stores only carried the bushings.... If you go to a junkyard either have them pull it or bring a breaker bar.

I believe it's the Nissan-matc C fluid or something. I think its just so your tranny doesn't shift rough when it's warming up. I have regular dexron III in my truck and it's rough when cold but fine otherwise.

Kitt, is there one of these near you? http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

You can buy replacement frameless ones at wal-mart.

Oh yeah, here are the pics of the tension bushing replacement. I had more, but they disappeared. Thank god my grandfather helped me with that, or I would have never done it

Thanks for the info GG I will try not to drive the truck this week, so that I can remove the control arms to have the new bushings pressed in. My dad has the same issue on his pathy now, he was telling me that it will cause my tires to wear unevenly, and since I just got new tires, I don't want that to happen! I have no idea if that is true or not...

I just fitted a set of raybestos pads a few weeks ago, they feel great. Just don't get the el cheapo ones.

This is true. My dad's wifes 86 corvette needs this done EVERY year. And new seals ever 2 years. That's b/c she hardly drives the thing, though. But back on topic, I have the same issue. I find if you stick it in and out a couple times (wiping it off in between), that I can get a good enough reading.

I never understood that either, the wd21 pathfinders, have a sweet one that has a billion positions, my fathers 2000 r50 has the same crappy lever that barely moves it anyways. Another thing I never understood about the r50s either, the wd21s have a button in the cab to pop it up. Also I "think" the key less for it could open it too, I may be wrong though. As for a reliability comparison, my grandfathers neighbor, had a 96 blazer, same thing, and my father had a 93 pathfinder and then the 2000. Steve (the neighbor) said he put over 10 grand into his blazer, saying that almost every major component had been replaced, some things twice (the a/c). He bought it brand new too. He ended up selling it for 500 bucks last year with 160,000kms and not a spot of rust...And bought a 2008 pathy . My father on the other hand, paid 10 grand for the 93 pathy, and put only tires, oil, gas, and brakes into it. And he gave it to me at 300,000kms. The r50 he bought 3 years ago, and the only problem we've had with it was the fuel filler tube leaked, but turns out it was a recall anyways. Oh and the rear shocks wore out. (Whatever, a set of Monroe's from Canadian tire fixed that, he doesn't wheel) Very well written comparison

Ok, that one is pretty expensive and since I'm in school (not working) I need to get this fixed as economical as possible. Since I don't really wheel would it be ok to just buy the 50 dollar spicer one, to get me through the winter, or if it can wait till spring when I start work again, that would be good too. But since you're not here you can't really tell anyways (how worn it is). Oh and can someone tell what the difference between a drag link and a center link is? On rock auto they have both listed, but the parts look the exact same in the picture. Just a different name I guess? The drag link is ac delco and the CL's are moog and spicer.