adamzan

When you remove the tie rod you can do it 3 ways (that I know of at least). 1 is use a pickle fork but that will damage the boot on the tie rod and then you will need a new one. 2 you can get a tie rod removal tool for about 10 dollars or if your part store has a loan a tool program that works too. 3 and the way I used to do till I bought the tool, was to smack the knuckle where the tie rod is seated, this will usually pop it up. A mini sledge is good for this. Yes you can remove the 4 bolts and separate the ball joint that way, be careful as they like to break and if they do it's new ball joint time, though it probably wouldn't hurt. Also you will want to remove the shock absorber and the brake caliper as well. Wire it up out of the way to not damage the flex line. I'm sure you know this but you must also remove the locking hub, and the snap ring that is exposed when you remove the hub. I would break the 6mm bolts on the hub free before jacking up the truck because it is easier. Also make SURE the allen key is seated all the way into the bolt as I have almost ruined a couple. I usually lightly tap the allen key in with a hammer. HTH

Why does it even matter the frame rusts from the inside out anyways. I just wash mine out frequently and give it a dusting of fluid film (thanks simon for telling me about that one) and the rot has been kept to a minimum in the past 3 years. I gave it a coat of rust paint 2 years ago and its still on there and the only rust spots are around the holes you stick the hose in.

Check MAF and o2

Do you have auto climate control? I think its the ambient air temp sensor.

Call them and tell them you are going to call the BBB if they don't fix your issue. I did the same with a guy who wouldn't give a deposit back. They suddenly seem very cooperative afterwords...

Ask tungsten he lives like 20 minutes from you. He helped me install my swaybar in the hotel parking lot on thursday so I am sure he'll help you.

Check your sway bar links and bushings. Mine makes a @!*% load of noise when the bushings were worn.

Jj, can you get some more detailed pictures of your truck that paint job looks amazing for a roll on. I've seen old muscle cars like that but always wondered how a pathfinder would look!

You will just have to keep owing mister510 pizza's from what I hear

Mine climbs to just over half when it was 102F 2 weeks ago. I had the a/c on and the fan clutch is what makes the truck gutless.

Mine doesn't shake up and down it goes left to right. Like it almost hits the fenders if the bump is big enough....

For some reason my hood wobbles side to side when I hit bumps or am I on a rough patch of highway. I tightened up the rubber stops so it doesn't hop up and down but I think that made it worse. I also replaced the foam things on the hinge near the firewall but that didn't help either. Anyone else have this problem. It really pisses me off and makes my truck look like a pos whenever people ride in it. Also those rubber stops on the fenders are still there too.

It looks fine you baby.

Could be the o2, or a plugged up cat. Those are 2 things I can think of that I had go wrong on mine. The reason the tranny is shifting higher is because the truck is having to go to higher rev's to build up speed, at least higher than normal.

All the ones with the tire carrier from the factory do. Make a template of where to drill the holes. For the latches at the bottom you will see 4 dimples. Dril with a smal drill first then a bigger one they are pre threaded holes. Just don't go too big!

I was actually there when a nissan mechanic told my dad to start off in 2nd if he found the 1st to "short" in his new to him 5 speed r50.

I ran into the same problem when I ordered my kit from AC. But at the time they didn't even state that the instructions weren't included. I couldn't find any either. What i ended up doing was getting another member on here to make templates from his tire carrier equipped pathfinder. He helped out greatly with the install and it still took like 3 hours.

Listen to 87pathy. And believe me when i say that removing the trans on a stock suspension wd21 is a PITA. You gotta lower the front diff and remove the tbars. On an r50 it should be pretty easy though cause there are none. And yes go with a stock clutch I know people that have well over 500k on the original nissan clutch.

Sounds like lifters or exhaust leak.

You can do the shocks, bjs, and manifolds yourself if you are mechanically inclined. Actually shocks and ball joints are really easy. If you order the parts from rock auto you can get them cheap too as they have great prices and frequent sales. www.rockauto.com

New clutch?

neon I don't care how fast it is. its still a neon

I have seen it freshly painted and installed in person I can say it is pretty bad ass. Nige, put the can of pbr down and get some pics up

They aren't expensive you could just buy one. Before I got one I just smacked the part of the knuckle where the tie rod is a few times with a 5lb sledge and it worked.

Kingman if you were more relaxed then you could get like 18 in the city