adamzan

The inhibitor switch also is the reverse light switch for the automatic.

If the shims are installed properly and the bolts are torqued to specs they shouldn't fall out. I've got about 3 shims behind each bolt (+/- one for caster changes) and they've been fine for over a year including a few wheeling trips.

You can buy it at canadian tire, napa, or partsource I live in ottawa. I used a whole can with mine, but mine had quite a few issues. There have been a few documented successes with this product.

I looked underneath nothing look bent or out of place, I have my other pathy beside it to compare to. They look exactly the same.

That is kinda normal for these transmissions as they age. What you're describing is shift flare. Mine used to do it before I ran a seafoam trans-tune treatment, and flushed it myself.

So in preparing for the inspection on the new rig, I went to take it for a drive around the block, and I wanted to see if the shifter would go into all of the gears (D, 2, 1), and I noticed it was kind of stiff trying to pull it back into first, so I sprayed it with PB underneath and let it soak a few hours. It was still stiff so I pulled it back with some force but as slowly as I could. It went into first no problem and now it is smooth through all gears. Great, I thought, until I went to pull it into the driveway to inspect other things. It wouldn't start in park, but it started if I shoved it into N from D. Now it won't even do that, and then the reverse lights got stuck on in park but I got them to shut off by playing with the shifter. I looked in the FSM and did the procedure for adjusting the shift cable, and then the inhibitor switch on the side of the trans. After aligning the holes with the pin I tightened it all up and got excited that it would start without having to jump the starter. Still no go, and now the reverse lights don't come on either. It won't start in any gear at all. I tried holding the key on and rowing it through the gears and nothing. Is there anything else I can check or should I just go get another switch (wish I hadn't sold my parts truck last week!!! FFFFFUUUU)

Have someone watch or let them do it and you watch, you can tell if its the ball joint because you will see it moving in and out of the socket.

Ask Precise1 what he did. He did it to my airbox and now it sits perfect with the body lift. I forget exactly what he did but it involved relocating a bracket or something.

I have a good one I can sell you . I'm no envirofreak but I prefer to have everything working on my vehicles.

The factory kit is dimmed high beams. I have two pathys, one has working DRL the other one is messed up and it runs on full high beam all the time. it wouldn't be hard to wire in the kit yourself. Maybe the harness is already there? And to who said all they do is waste bulbs and energy. That is not true. There have been a few situations where it was either dusk or raining and I've almost hit cars turning into parking lots because they have no lights on and I couldn't see them. I'm not for all of fisher price ontario's rules but I do like DRL. You could wire some foglights that come on with the ignition and that would count. As long as you have something it will pass inspection.

I agree with nunya. This is why some of the @!*% I see on the road scares me.

I agree with kingman, although I've never had a problem with mine. I wonder how easy converting it to fuses would be.

I'm pretty sure it only does if you have the auto climate control. I have the manual controls and it has never cycled. If you're worried about it you could unplug the connector at the compressor and it won't turn on.

Thats because its a chevy. No offense Bow_tied To be honest it was probably on its way out anyways, I know that almost every GM vehicle my family has had, the compressor let go. Remember GM doesn't make the compressor just like nissan doesn't. I personally have never seen a failed pathy compressor, other than my own LOL. (I ran it with low freon and it overheated).

It wouldn't cost that much for a body shop to fix dents. Sometimes they can even do it without repainting the panel.

Jack up the truck and grab the tire at 12 & 6 (top and bottom) and try to move it in out and see if there is any play, if there is you either have a ball joint or bearing problem. Now try side to side, if there is play there you have a steering component problem. More than likely you just need an alignment, the camber should be pretty much 0 degrees on these trucks.

OK, the A/C condenser is the radiator looking thing in front of your radiator, the compressor is what the belt turns. If you're gas mileage is really that bad then taking the belt off won't do anything. More than likely the noise is coming from the idler pulley instead, it is common for those to fail on many vehicles. Pressing the button with the belt disconnected does nothing, trust me, my belt is off right now due to bad compressor bearings (long story). If the a/c works, leave the belt on, it helps with defrosting/defogging the windows immensely. I did not notice any mileage or power gains without the belt.

Mine came with 235/75/15s but it got better mileage when I switched to 31s. But only on the legos, 31's on the stock chrome rims was a pretty heavy combo (they were bfg at)

In the FSM there is a complete vacuum line diagram in the EC section I believe. A few other things to try: unplug the o2 sensor and see if its better check the voltage or w/e the fsm tells you to do to the coolant temp sensor. wiggle the maf wire when its running bad.

yessss

In 4lo you'd be hard pressed to stall it in 1st gear.

That is horse @!*% mine bogs the @!*% out of the truck and it never shuts off in the hot weather.

Just press multi quote and then add reply

holy f u c k why didn't they just make them all the same

The power switch, dimmer, and rear window release are all lit on my 95. About the only thing that isn't is the heated seat switches and window ones.