adamzan

I know the timing is supposed to be at 15. I'm having the same problem, my pulley is a 7 marks and I assumed the first was TDC but I am starting to think this is not the case!

Try these guys http://bandit4x4.com/4x4-truck-parts/steering-parts/idler-arm-bushing-replacements/

You can, but you have to modify the spindle a little bit. Precise1 tried and there is a thread around here somewhere on it.

Some filters can make a big difference in how fast the oil pressure comes up on startup.

This place seems to have an all metal one listed for the r50: http://www.radiatorbarn.com

They look like they're around the 50k mark, thats just my experience as mine looked the same at that many miles. Nissan used and still uses NGK plugs factory.

Have you checked the U joints they could be binding.

People drive like morons and back into things. That is why mine was bent.

The tire carrier is probably bent. I've seen this a few times.

They do unlock once I shift to 2wd and reverse, but when in 4wd they don't.

I don't see how this is "hardcore custom fab" but ok...

I haven't really had a problem with my auto hubs, except when one of them was just worn out so I replaced them with a good used set. They never seem to unlock in reverse for me I always have 4wd in both directions.

if the cig lighter fuse is blown the ac won't run.

Timing belt/waterpump would be my next thing on the list. If it breaks your motor goes pop. It's not that difficult and I've done it a couple of times. I would also get it rust proofed to keep the frame in good shape.

Or he has a manual. My dads old 2000 r50 with the vg33 and a 5 speed was just at 3k at 110km/h. It actually got around 20mpg on the hwy even with the stock hubs.

Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder first?

I would try bleeding the rears again. When I did mine it was such a pain to get all the air out of the rear lines and cylinders. Try gravity bleeding.

You probably just need an alignment and new tires. I had the same problem once.

Glad it worked out. I don't mind that you have to remove the hub, as it kinda makes you repack the bearings at the same time, they will last forever with proper maintenance.

I believe it is RANCHO Part # RS999214. That is what rock auto shows.

I forgot how gangster your pathy was with those gold step rails.

Mine had the cargo area spare mount when I got it. The tire had a cloth cover, so it has no cracks or anything. Still looks new after 16 years! I was told that since it was never really exposed to uv light and road salt, that it should be fine. I voted don't have a full size, because tires are pricey, and when I bought my 33" duratracs, I couldn't afford a 5th tire. I have no spare right now but am getting a matching size spare in the spring.

That's strange, mine doesn't come on when I turn the key to on, unless the fuel is actually low. The light works on both my trucks.

I have been running a fleetguard 6500 3 micron filter for almost 100,000kms. It is run "in line" and it does not restrict flow at all.

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm There is the right tool. No grinding or cutting bs to deal with.