adamzan

Is your throttle cable sticking?

If you can get moog tie rods, I would go with them. I've had them on my truck for 4 years and they are still tight. Lifetime warranty too. It was wheeled regularly until last year and I never had a problem with the tie rods. (the centerlink on the other hand, lol.)

I know you said plugs and wires were just done, but you didn't list the distributor cap and rotor. Have you changed those? Also have you checked your timing with a timing light? I think that can also cause the emissions to be too high. Also, what about your o2 sensor? Try unplugging it and see if the miss goes away, does it happen when cold? warm? all the time?

It will run even better with an o2 sensor!

I see you're in ottawa. Why not order the 4x4parts.com 2 inch lift, have it shipped to ogdensburg, and pick it up there? I saved a lot on my lift by doing that.

We've had those standards here for a while, and the dyno test as well. Mine had a full tune up and what not, and still wouldn't pass hydro carbons. A new cat was the answer unfortunately.

Maybe try a body shop supply place? There is a place I go to here, kind of pricey but their @!*% is good.

Same here, friggin whiney americans!

That sounds like an exhaust leak.

The mint ones have been scarce here for years. Nice ride.

I'm gonna let the pictures do the talking, does this help?

There should be 40 teeth between the two cam marks, and 43 between the LH (drivers side) and the crank marks. The ignition timing should be 15 degrees BTDC give or take 2 degrees. DO NOT screw with the distributor until you confirm the belt is on right. You can reuse the coolant as long as you drain it into a clean container. I reused some of mine and I put it through a coffee filter. My father had a 2000 pathfinder and the belt was changed at a shop, and when he got it back (actually I picked it up), it ran like @!*% and had no power. I took it back twice and they swore up and down it was fine. I eventually took it apart myself and the crank/cam count was off by one tooth. It had a flashing CEL (misfire) at idle only but once you drove it went solid.

Was just on rock auto. Timken part # 228410 When you look in the description under Engine>Crankshaft Seal you will see it says rear or front. For what it's worth, I bought mine at the Nissan dealer for a whopping 45 dollars. I didn't want to but I've heard sometimes aftermarket seals don't last very long.

If the timing belt was put on correctly, there should be no need to adjust the distributor at all. If your new wires/cap don't solve the problem, I would check the timing with a timing light. If it is off you may be off a tooth.

Did you bleed the clutch dampener? It's on the passenger side of the firewall. Follow the line from the master cyl and you'll see it.

Mine was the same, on both my trucks.

Where you will really notice the e-fan is in the summer with the a/c on. You won't have the massive drag with the fan clutch going full out trying to cool the truck at idle/city speeds.

One came on the spare tire of my pathy. Was handy for that fskc stick who dinged my door once.

I see you live in Gatineau. You should come wheeling with us sometime. But leave the weed at home.

I bought 5 cragar soft 8 steel wheels for 250 dollars, and free shipping from summit racing. They are a great deal IMO.

The diff isn't really "Hard" to take out. It is just awkward and heavy.

I used 5/32" line and it worked fine.

Drive it easier? Take off the 33" mud tires and run stock size when not wheeling? Fix exhaust leaks and bad sensors? Make sure the timing is good? With my new to me '94 I'm averaged 21mpg on the way back from florida. Around town it's been getting 16ish. This one seems to have a lot more power too.

Change all of the vac lines. It's an easy thing to do and will eliminate any problems in that area for a long time.

Screw 31s go with 235s, you'll have all sorts of power!