denisb

Bad tire belt. Mud stuck inside a wheel. Bent wheel. Flat spoted tire (although this would not go away just get worst). Try rotating front to back and see if it goes away or changes. This will eliminate tire/rims.

By tranny not working can you give us a better idea as to how it's reacting. Reason? Are you sure that it's your tranny and not your brakes? Could be a colapsing brake line locking up a wheel. Since it was on a hard brake incident. Denis

Depending how hard you mean by hard, these trannys are known to have a hard second shift. I know mine's always shifted hard in second (when cold also) and I've had it for 4 years and 100 000 kms without problem. As for your other description it almost sounds like a tranny chatter. Does it feel like a vibration almost like going over rumble strips along the highway? If so, it's probably a chater. Mine had this issue and I let it go until the tranny quit. I then drop the pan and oil and it's been going good ever since with no Chatter. I would however not recomend to wait till the tranny quits to change the oil. I was extremely lucky not to kill the tranny. Denis

Yes they can be replaced. Not sure what the actual bulb# is but it's a mini wedge bulb (Ithink that's what they call them). Not the 1/4" ones, the smaller....maybe 3/16"?!?!? Denis

If it's an O2 code I'd suspect an engine code afterwards. I'd suspect wet plugs, alternator and/or alternator if you were going through the water/slush fairly quick. Denis

Rivet?!?!?!? On Which cap? If you mean the wiper arm cap, it just slides off. Pull up and iy should come off. It looks like there's a pin that goes across it thru the arm, but it's the arm pin. The cap actually slides over the pin (optical illusion).

You don't have to take the fenders off. The vents are a little tricky to remove. Take a small flat screw driver and press donwn on the plastic clips(the middle part only) the middle of the clip will push down about an eith of an inch and the the clip can be pulled up. Oh and tapping the arm lightly with a hammer after the center bolt is removed is the best way I found to remove the arm from the shaft. Denis

Door seals Terrible??!?!?!?!?!? Mine are missing! You would need a basket ball for mine. I guess my truck has an antitheft and I didn't know it Denis

My guess is your exactly right. Sometimes it will be hard to see the cracks to the naked eye, with a magnifying glass or by trying to wiggle the relay, you might be able to notice the crack better or see the connector move inside the solder.

Sounds like the DRL module. If you take the module apart you should see solder "cracks" if you will, when you wiggle the relays on the board. Just try re soldering all of the bigger connectors off the board and see if it helps. I fixed mine a couple of years ago and their still going but some people had less luck.

Oh yes the days of purple, black and un-cathegorised topics. Denis

Being one of the first official members of NPORA (#19). It's hard to beleive how much this site has grown. I remeber learning so much from NPORA about my Pathy the first years as a member. I wonder if Mr Jim (Jim Benett) knew when he first started NPORA what he was really starting. Although this is by far the best site I have found for Pathfinder information, it has become more than that. It's become a place where you can meet friends and disscus and share every day happenings. Thank you Mr Jim, moderators and the knowledgable members involved in making this site what it is today. Keep up the good work Denis

I might be wrong.....but aren't the 95 boots the same as the earlier years?

Got it! Thanks

Find a big friend?!?!?!?

Oh I forgot to add. If you purchase I'd check to see if the tranny cooler is OEM or not....the OEM sucked and lots of people ruint trannys that way. As for your brakes, If you have disks in the back, could be stuck pins. Mine act like that when they start needing attention. Denis

No Vacum 4X4 on these, they're purely mechanical. You mention rust, Make sure to check the frame from the back wheel on especially. They have a comon rust problem in that area as well as under the rear seats. If you didn't hear clicks or knocks that's a good thing, as they are known for their broken manifold studs. They are pretty bullit proof. Mine's got close to 240ks and it still runs good. The only thing that I'd be a little warry about is the coolant leak. Not sure about that one. Definately I would do timing belt since you will be in that area when replacing the water pump. Oh and check the rear control arm bushings (which are another common prob). It's an easy enough fix if they're bad, but you might be able to dicker on price some more Denis

I'd remove the cinder block, it might make it lighter. Denis

Or it could be my rig..........wait a sec I'll be right back!!!!! Oh, never mind. Mine's white -alcohol-

I've had mine locked for the last two years and had no adverse effect that I can tell. Some say it makes your vehicle a little harder on gas.......they're not great on gas to start off with. All you have to do is take them off and spin the inside of the so they are locked. Then remove the clutch assembly. This is why with auto hubs, you get a crunch when you go from forward to reverse, etc. The clutch actually dissengages the hubs momentarily when it chages dierection. If the clutch is not there, the hub stays in it's engage or dissengaged position.. Denis

Usually it's the joints just under the two big relays. You might have to look really close to see them, they tend to be just hairline cracks. If you apply pressure back and forth on the relays they should be visible. If not, then you might have something else that's faulty. If it isn't a cold solder, plug it in and see if the relays acctivate when you turn on the Path. If they activate, it might not be your DRL at all. (just remember to make sure nothing shorts out when you test) let us know how you make out, Denis

Hey and maybe you could mount your 32" spare on them too......that way there you could cary two. Denis

Did you replace the release bearing? It sounds to me like that might be your broblem. Denis

I wouldn't skimp out on the bolts and nuts. Go to an automotive store and get a good grade bolt with a locking nut. Denis

No probs ILMP, that's what this site's all about. One of them was out in about 2 minutes and the other one took about 10. Both of them came out with the air hammer. Do the Polly bushings have a metal outer sleeve? If so, depending on the type of press, you might be able to push the old bushings out with your new ones as you press the new ones in.