KovemaN

I don't think there is an actual back pressure spec. Too much will not allow the engine to rev and too little will lower the engine's ability to produce adequate torque at low revs. I believe that the Magnaflow converter has flow characteristics similar to stock and that the part on the downpipe is a resonator and not an actual converter. The setup you listed sounds good except for the exit. I would keep it as far back as possible to prevent CO from entering the cab.

I just meant between the header and the hoses. Sure wouldn't want to cover up some shiny $400 headers.

I haven't heard of that happening to anyone. I have used this same kit with both Thorleys and Pacesetters and the hoses have never showed any signs of heat damage. A heat shield probably wouldn't hurt though.

Aren't you going to replace your rear main seal? If there ever was a time this is it and yours is already leaking. You need to press the bearing off of the sleeve. I think I just rested the outside of the release bearing on the jaws of my vise and used a socket to drive the sleeve out. I would suggest wood blocks, but you don't have those either

I would keep the transfer case. You will save a bunch of work and a fair amount of money and you will still have 2-low. If you decide to drop the t-case you would be best off pulling a tranny and driveshaft from a 2wd truck. Otherwise you will have to replace the extension housing, output shaft, and driveshaft. Probably the transmission mount too. 2wd trucks had the two piece drive shaft so you would have to add a center bearing as well. One of you obstacles will also be the fact that your truck is a 1988. Many parts changed after '89 and I am sure you will run into some of them.

31x10.5-15" tires fit nicely on those wheels. They shouldn't rub and there are a lot of different makes/models to choose from. I personally prefer BFG A/Ts. You should be able to find a decent used set locally so long as mounting and balancing doesn't kill the deal. If you happen to find a wheel/tire combo for a good price the wheels are 6 lug on 5.5"(139.7mm) and you will need at least a 4" center bore to clear the hubs. Backspacing should be no more than 4" for a rub-free fit.

I just ordered a bunch of crap for next to nothing prices. Thanks for the heads up!

Why is everyone so scared of something hitting the filter up there? It's still at least a foot away from the tire. Filters are not easy to puncture either. Getting wrapped up in a ball of barbed wire might be an issue, but I think the filter could withstand that as well. The best part about that location is oil change time. Zero mess.

I will gladly warm some up for you as well if you want to head out to AZ. It's usually a lot stronger coming out than going in. Make sure to get your arse out here. The desert wheeling is worth it. I believe it's Friday October 9th for camping plus however many days you can manage beyond that. Looks like through Tuesday the 13th for anyone who can stay the whole time. I will likely be heading out on Saturday the 10th and running up the back way to Crown King minus Terminator (too hardcore for me). Mildly modified trucks shouldn't be discouraged though. There are a lot of trails in the area that will make you wonder why you were so crazy to attempt them, but happy that you did. If anyone doesn't feel like camping, they are more than welcome to stay at my place Friday night (a little notice would be nice). I live about 15 minutes from the McDonalds where everyone is meeting up Saturday morning. I might even skip the back road to CK and take the easy way (34 miles highway + 26 miles of dirt road). There are some really cool camp sites up in Crown King and the saloon is always rockin' this time of year. My Pathy should be ready for the real trip though. If you puss out I will be more than happy to direct you to the easy route. The stop at Cleator is still worth the trip (Google it yourself). I'm getting excited now. My Pathy is getting her new Flowmaster tomorrow. All I have to do after that is throw on the 32" BFGs and I'm ready to rock. I might even have my sliders on by then.

Slayer - Raining Blood (Live from Decade of Aggression) This kind of music always makes me think of all those hardcore rock crawling videos. Like it's time to break some stuff.

That is definitely not what I meant. Just as long as room temperature is below 60* F I agree. Pilsner should be near freezing, Ale and Lager should be cool to cold. Room temp for me right now is 80* and that can be down right disgusting.

Trans-Dapt or Perma-Cool. Like Precise1 mentioned they are all basically the same. If you wait for the header install the job will be much easier. The only real issue is figuring out where to put the filter. I put mine up under the fender behind the headlight. My1path mounted his on a frame crossmember. I would try to avoid mounting it in the engine compartment since you will still make a mess with oil changes. Search is nobody's friend.

I prefer the same. Coffee black. Kona is my favorite, but I roast my own whenever I feel like getting off my butt to do it.

Sandbag over at N4W used that technique on his Frontier. It looks pretty cool. Linky

Here is the only pic I have of the bars on the truck. I can take some better pics of the bars now that they have been removed. Just let me know if you need better ones.

If you want really good camo you should get a vinyl wrap like 87pathymossyoak/beckylynn420

I sincerely hope that comment was directed towards me. My redneck girlfriend talked me into buying that truck with that paint job. I actually replaced the original doors and repainted the new ones to match. I don't think the previous owner used any stencils. Probably lots of drugs. I did the new doors and touch it up occasionally freehand. Posterboard stencils would probably look much better. Just lay down your base color and add shapes from there. She's my trail rig and I love her, but it takes a certain type of person to run around in a rattle canned 4x4. Children are by far the most appreciative gawkers. I can post some more pictures if you really want, but I think this picture says it all.

I have always wanted to put a VG30DETT and a 5 speed in my 1969 Mustang coupe. The engine bay has plenty of room and I already upgraded the rear end to a 9" and put disc brakes up front. No egr crap. No cat. Dual exhaust with an X-pipe. Some may cry heresy, but I love Nissan VG music. Especially if it's got twin blowers and twin Flowmaster Delta 50s.

Worried about shiny paint and clear coat on a 20 year old 4x4? You all must have spent too much time painting in an enclosed space.

I like GPS for off-road trips where I only have a low detail topo map. It really helps find some cool trails, shortcuts and not-so shortcuts.

Welcome and nice truck. I like the basket that you added too. It must be my Pathy's evil twin or maybe the other way around Same year, same color, same options, same transmission and mine even came from Colorado. Having leather and a 5spd it's most like the SE. Do you have heated seats or rear disc brakes? If so you probably have the limited slip rear differential as well. There may be a little orange tag on the back of your rear diff it is. If you're interested in replacing the nerf bars you can have mine for $25 plus shipping. They are in good shape with no major flaws. I just didn't like them on my truck.

I have 32x11.5 BFG A/T tires on 15x6" stock chrome Pathy wheels. A narrow wheel will hold a bead better when aired down. I have had normal tire wear and handling on that setup. I guess what really matters is the sidewall and number of radial plies.

I was pretty miffed when I found out my ratcheting wrench set included an 18mm and not a 19mm. I have never used the 18mm. WTF is 18mm used for anyway? If it helps 16mm should match up to 5/8"

PB Blaster and long wrenches. Sometimes those lock washers dig into the nuts much more than you would expect.