KovemaN

Every part of this cash for clunkers thing is crap. This thread is for anyone with a sense of humor and a dislike of big government. Please post what you would like to be paid to do. Cash for $trippers? You get the point. Here are my issues with the clunkers bill. The Environment: It takes much more energy to produce an automobile than will be saved by gaining a couple of mpg. From raw materials production to delivery to the electricity used on the car lot, a large amount of energy is expended to sell just one car or truck. This will not be offset by a 2-4mpg increase in fuel economy. Big Government: They own part of Chrysler and GM so why not splurge a little on marketing? A billion dollars will go a long way towards making you the cool kid to hang out with. Now they want to add another three billion? I'm glad I could help by paying taxes. The Auto Makers: They already get tax breaks on their plants and dealerships so why boost their numbers more by drying up the used car market and handing out money? They are selling off excess inventory from the last 9 months while their manufacturing facilities sit idle. This money is not trickling down to the guy that works on the assembly line or the guy that supplies the parts (he's already out of business). The People: Who is trading in their "clunker"? They will already have good credit and a good job. They already have a car, but they want something new and shiny and this is their chance. Most of them will be getting free money so I can't fault them, but how many will default on their loan when they lose their job later this year? Who will bail out the clunker people? Used Car Buyers: You know who you are. Sitting in your '88 'finder wondering how long you've got before you need to replace that engine or tranny with a junkyard part. Maybe you'll just save up a little more and pick up that perfect WD21 that you saw on Craigslist for $2000. When you call, the guy tells you that he traded it in for that "Clunkers" program. Then he says "Maybe you should trade yours in". Oh wait, I drive a vehicle with no monthly payment because I don't want to spend $30k on a new hunk of metal. I don't want to be saddled with a $500 a month payment for 5 years.

People are trashing them because they can get free cash from the tax paying public. They are trading in their perfectly good Pathy so they can get $4500 for a car that only gets 4mpg better mileage or $3500 for 2mpg. It's free money for people that want to buy a car, but have no reason to scrap a reliable vehicle. Anyone driving a real clunker can't get financing anyway. What self respecting politician would be caught driving a vehicle that's worth less than $4500? Where's the "Cash for my dinner table" program? Or how about "Cash for SAS" or "Cash for Kegs"? F-it. I'm starting a new thread for people to list what they would do with $4500 in free money.

If it says "Pathfinder" on it and looks like the picture below, it is a WD21 keyless remote. As far as I know, no other Nissan keyless remotes will work with this system. I bought my remotes used and programmed them to work with my truck. As long as it's not broken, it can be programmed to the vehicle.

Using the interlock switch you can also drive the truck a short distance with the starter motor. Emergency situations only of course.

I've got good drill bits and extractors. I could give you a hand this weekend if you want. PM me or give me a call.

That article came up on N4W recently as well. Basically, exposing chlorinated hydrocarbons to the arc produces phosgene aka "nerve gas". More than one person there uses brake cleaner for weld prep regularly. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner does not produce phosgene. I was taught and continue to use starting fluid which is mostly ether. The best suggestion that I have seen is to use denatured alcohol for degreasing. It is clean and doesn't produce toxic fumes. Another topic that came up was galvanized metal. Either grind off the galvanizing or use a quality respirator or both when welding on galvanized. The most common coating is mostly zinc and you can get zinc oxide poisoning from the fumes. It's not lethal, but it's no fun. Another common coating is potentially more dangerous and that is cadmium. It is a heavy metal that builds up in the body over time. Heavy metal poisoning can cause neurological impairment and permanent damage. It's a bitch to wear the helmet and respirator, but it is the best way. I gotta say it's down right torture to weld with both when it's 110+ degrees.

The OEM mounting kit used riv-nuts. Self tapping screws should do the trick though. If you are worried about it, pull the headliner and install t-nuts from the inside. The screws holding the rails to the roof strip very easily. You might want to take a cordless drill in case you have to take the heads off of the screws.

Excellent news. One more back from the dead. Pictures would be good.

Using a VG30 with the longer crank snout is fine. I bought a reman 300zx engine and it had the long snout. Nissan makes a spacer for the pulley/damper so it will seat correctly. You will also need a new crank bolt and washer. Spacer: 12308-V5321 Bolt: 12309-16V00 Washer: 12308-77A00

There is a big round rubber boot where the engine harness enters the cab. It is on the passenger side of the firewall. When I run wires back I cut a slit in that boot and push the wire through to the cab. It will come out behind the dash by the passenger side foot well. Since it's a small wire you might want to attatch it to a piece of firm wire (coat hanger) and use that to guide it through. I can show you when you come by tomorrow.

N4W would probably be a good place for that question.

Where are you trying to place the sender? I'm pretty sure that the sender provided with the kit is 1/8" NPT. Most, if not all threads on a Pathfinder are metric.

I added my vote for a MINIMUM of $20. Re-uniting a man with his truck is a very noble cause. After losing nearly $50k because of my sister's divorce I have an idea of how bad divorce can be. Never marry in a community property state. At least I still have my trucks, all I need is a new driveway and garage.

Hard shifting, dumping the clutch and engine braking. I think it may have been the pilot bushing wearing out that really brought on the failure. It was severely trashed. The springs in the friction plate appeared to have been rubbing on something before it failed. I don't recall if it was the flywheel bolts or the pressure plate. I think it happened because the whole assembly was not staying centered with the worn out pilot bushing. It was a freak incident in terms of Nissan quality. BTW, it was the original Nissan clutch and it had 120k miles on it.

What is the absolute worst that could happen if he were to put some JB Weld in the hole and then replace the stud? The seal could eventually fail and then a small amount of coolant would leak out gradually. That would be the easiest and cheapest option. A welder is obviously the best solution, but cost could be prohibitive. So it seems there are three options: Cheap = Seal the hole and put the new stud in with fingers crossed. Moderate = Hire a welder Expensive = Replace the head

I have seen a Nissan clutch fail. One of the springs in the friction plate broke and lodged in the fingers of the pressure plate. The clutch wouldn't disengage. That was a first for me, but was probably caused by abuse. I would still go with the Nissan OE unit though. I believe most of the Nissan clutches that I have seen were Exedy branded. 1 failure out of 11 Nissan clutches isn't bad.

I had my flywheel machined at NAPA for something like $30. While you have the flywheel off you should probably replace the rear main seal as well. I installed the Centerforce stage 2 clutch and popped my slave cylinder within two weeks. This was probably due to the stronger pressure plate. I have since replaced the slave and I am planning to change the rubber clutch line over to braided stainless for reliability. I got my Centerforce clutch set on Ebay for $130. Over OEM, the Centerforce is definitely not worth the premium price that Rugged Rocks is asking. I don't know why the price is so high on RR. $500 difference? WTF?

They did for me. On my other Pathfinder they mounted 33x12.5" BFGs on 15x8 black steelies with a 4" offset. That was a pretty nice combo. That truck had BL and SL and it still needed trimming in the front though. A sawzall will make quick work of the front corner of the front fender.

My old Pathy had the stock chrome wheels with 32" BFG A/Ts. That's the way I bought her and I never bothered to buy new rims. I never had a problem with the bead or tread wear. I can't believe that Wal-Mart mounted them for the PO in the first place.

32s will definitely fit on the stock chrome 15x6 rims. Most won't recommend it, but when you air down a narrow rim will hold the bead better. I only had to trim a little off of the front corner of the front fender flare. The only rubbing was at full lock on the side of the PS box. Definitely not a big deal especially since you can adjust the stops to prevent that rubbing. If you are going to lift I would suggest picking up the 15x8 steelies from Summit. They have good prices and shipping is cheap too. If you have a Discount Tire shop near you they will match online prices.

I have a Kershaw Ken Onion clipped to my pocket right now (always for that matter). I've owned knives from Gerber, CRKW, Old Timer, Schrade and Boker and the Kershaw is my favorite by far. For a semi-assisted folder the Onion is the best I've ever carried. My second favorite would have to be the Gerber Gator. My Boker ceramic folder broke. When camping I carry the Onion and a Gerber Multi-Tool.

Vortex is a gimmick. If you want to chip, you can get an idea of what it takes HERE. Adding headers and freeing up the exhaust is the most common route around here. The only other reasonable option is to change your gearing. At least you will get the illusion of more power. More chipping info: http://www.z31.com/prom/ http://www.zx-files.com/ http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html

I find the search function on this board to be quite lacking. You would probably be better off using google and adding "site:npora.ipbhost.com" to your search string. I've used the search here looking for specific threads and get no results even though I know exactly what I am looking for. Yes I have learned the intricacies of this board's search and it still omits valid search results. As for the switch, the only permanent fix is to unplug the factory switch and replace it with a quality pin switch on the hatch.

The FSM calls for a bead of sealant. I used black RTV with no gasket on the last two that I did with no leaks. It seemed to work better than the gray.

The 180* thermostat sits at 1/2 for me with the AC on.