KovemaN

How about a feedback category in the classifieds section? I have had some good luck swapping parts here and the good guys should be recognized. It would reward those that honor their word and shame those that don't. It's not a perfect solution, but it's a start.

I really need to get out soon. I wouldn't mind playing around Table Mesa. It is really f-ing hot though. 115* likely by the weekend, but rain next week. There could be some sloppy stuff soon with the monsoon. My Pathy is pretty stock too so I'm not looking for anything hard core. I'm near I-17 and 101.

Bushing Thread There really isn't much to it unless your cups are trashed. Release the tension on the t-bars and jack up the suspension so the compression rod is level. You can probably leave the t-bars cranked, but it's easier with no tension. Unbolt the rod from the arm and the frame. Replace the bushings and re-assemble.

My temp guage has been hitting the 1/2 mark here in Phoenix with the AC on. 110* does suck, even in the shade. I wouldn't worry unless it gets near 2/3. As for the stalling I would seriously consider the coolant temp sensor to be suspect. If the ECU doesn't get the proper reading from the sensor the air/fuel mixture will be off. I had similar idle issues on my last pathy and replacing the sensor fixed it. If the ecu doesn't like the signal it will return a code 13 in diagnostic mode III.

I guess I missed the part about no codes. He didn't ever say he tried pulling them. There definitely is a pressure switch in the PS system that tells the computer to kick up the idle when the pump is working hard. Same goes for the AC. The AC clutch trigger wire also signals the ECU to bump up the idle. Either of those could be disconnected and it could cause the vehicle to stall.

Since your fan ripped off violently you could have severed one or more wires. Does your idle kick up when you turn the AC on? Without the AC does your idle kick up when you turn the steering wheel? The power steering pressure sensor wiring would be vulnerable to a flying fan blade. Also, did you happen to replace your thermostat when you fixed everything? My temp guage is centered at 180 which is the standard thermostat temp. With the the 170 degree thermostat (standard in hot climates) my truck sits at about 1/4 - 1/3 on the guage. You may also benefit from replacing the coolant temp sensor. It should throw a code if it's not working properly though. Any codes?

Brushes in the alternator will wear out more quickly under heavier loads. They are basically just electric motors in reverse.

Yeah, I totally forgot about the MPG crap. Cars: New car must get at least 22mpg (weak for new car). $3500 for a +4mpg improvement and $4500 for +10mpg. Light Truck: New vehicle must get 18mpg. $3500 for +2mpg (seriously!) and $4500 for +5mpg Full Size Trucks: New one only needs to get 15mpg. $3500 for +1mpg and +$4500 for +2mpg Those numbers make this whole thing seem that much more retarded.

The vehicle has to have been registered and insured by the owner for at least one year preceding the trade in. There is no $3500 check in the mail. The dealer discounts their inflated price and then the government sends the dealer $3500. The dealer will be allowed to part out all but the engine and transmission and keep the proceeds. It's a very flawed piece of cr@p that only serves as the dealer portion of the auto industry bailout. Most people that can afford to buy a new vehicle are probably driving something worth more than $3500 anyway. Smoke and mirrors gentlemen.

Find a pair of cheap locking pliers and clamp them on the strut. It's cheap and installation is simple. Extra locking pliers can also come in handy for other chores. Luckily for me the struts on my new Pathy actually work.

Mine is a 1995 SE. Loaded with leather, heated seats, heated mirrors, sport package (LSD & rear disc) and moon roof. It even has the power antenna which does not work. Technically it should be an LE, but it's definitely marked SE. After doing some research I have determined that the LE was indroduced in 1994. It is a fully optioned SE. LEs only came with auto transmissions. SE was 4x4 only while the LE was available in 2wd. If it doesn't have leather then it is not the LE.

Is there a different VIN code for the LE model?

I would vote SE. LE was not available until 94 and the sport package (rear disc, lsd, adjustable shocks) would most likely be on the SE. I don't know if the XE could be optioned with the sport package.

Wow! Bash? I provided opinions from personal experience with both products. I have a real problem with those who simply parrot what others have said so I chimed in. I did not claim that either system was better or worse. On the contrary I stated pros and cons of both. As an accomplished welder and mechanic I installed all THREE sets of headers myself. I also have extracted many broken manifold studs the hard way - by myself. If you could read beyond your keyboard would see that the only part of my exhaust that I had built for me was the cat-back. I do not have a proper tubing bender so I hired someone that knows more than I do when it comes to exhaust fabrication. I believe it was money well spent. As for someone without welding experience or the right equipment, I would always recommend professional installation to avoid aggravation. Neither Pacesetter or Thorley had a direct bolt-on fit. Both required modification. BTW - My comment about owning a WD21 is directly related to the well known (even to non Nissan owners) propensity for these trucks to have cracked manifolds and broken studs. Apparently that humor was lost in your translation.

When giving advice I like to pull from personal experience and not something that I "heard" on another message board. Having said that, my last Pathfinder had Pacesetter headers, magnaflow cat and a Flowmaster Delta 50 muffler. I had a local exhaust shop build a new cat-back with the flowmaster and it only cost $100 for materials and labor. They even used flanges and utilized the stock exhaust mounting points. After I totalled the truck I was able to pull off everything behind the headers and bolt it up to another Pathfinder like it was stock. The setup sounded great with the headers. I have the Doug Thorleys on a 1987 V6 D21. They are nice headers, but not worth the premium price IMO. I also have Pacesetters on my 4cyl 1997 D21 pickup and they provide a significant performance increase. It seems that many Thorley owners like to bash PS for no good reason. I have never seen or heard about PS headers failing on a nissan. Properly installed headers should never see "extreme" pressures. If you want to complain or worry about exhaust leaks then you shouldn't be driving a WD21. As for quality, the welds on the Pacesetter headers are no better or worse than the Thorleys. I have no idea where Astroc2002 got the spot weld thing and I am an accomplished welder. The only difference between the two is that chrome plating is available on the Thorleys which will qiuckly change colors once they get hot. I personally prefer ceramic coating, but if you get painted headers you will want to have them stripped and repainted with high temp paint. The paint on the Pacesetters will burn off leaving bare metal exposed. The bottom line is this: Go for what you can afford. Get ALL of your studs replaced when you have the broken ones extracted. Save yourself some grief and have someone else install the headers. Neither Thorley or PS were direct bolt-on in my experience. Get a high-flow cat. It should be less than $100 Have your exahust shop use flanges and factory mounts for future maintenance or removal. I like the Flowmaster sound so I use them. 40s are pretty aggressive and 50s are more mellow in the cab. I had a glass pack and I hated it. 2.25" tubing to the muffler and 2.5" tailpipe worked the best for me. It kept the low end, but still got the big tube growl.

Sweet deal on the sliders. After having putting sliders on a couple of trucks I figured out the the best mounting option for the Nissan was to weld sections of c-channel to the sliders. The c-channel should be just big enough to wrap around the frame from the bottom. First, get your channel pieces cut making sure that they are big enough for mounting hardware and the tubing to be welded on, then drill mounting holes through the channel, fit the channel pieces to the frame and drill through the frame being careful not to puncture anything important, weld the channel to the sliders (gusseting is recommended), bolt them to the frame with proper hardware and you're done. I would probably have them powder coated prior to mounting to stave off rust. On that same note, I would make sure that you primer the frame after drilling the mounting holes. If you ever need to remove them for repair or to sell the truck all you have to do is unbolt them and go. As a bonus, this also makes it easier to chop off the mounts so the sliders can be used on another vehicle.

Here is Isis. Her brother Rocco is laying in a hole he dug in the yard (in the picture). They love to go for rides. My girlfriend refuses to stay in the truck if the trail is rough so she takes them and they spot for me.

A truck I found in the desert. Fitting end for an S-10.

The shoes should never wear out unless you like driving with the e-brake on. I guess I never even looked to see if they were self-adjusting since I've only had to adjust mine once. It makes sense that they aren't since the parking brake shoe is only actuated by the hand lever and not by normal braking.

By mini drum you mean rear disc brakes correct? The self adjusters don't always work, especially if they get dirty. Here is the procedure to adjust the parking brake: Raise and support the rear of the truck safely. Remove the adjuster hole plug at the rear of the brake backing plate. Make sure that the parking brake is fully released, then rotate the star wheel adjuster DOWNWARD with a brake adjusting tool until the shoes are touching the brake drum. Back off the star wheel 7-8 notches. Install the hole plug and rotate the wheel a few times to ensure that the shoes are not dragging on the drums. Lower the truck and test the parking brake operation.

I just pulled the plug on mine last night. It completely stopped working and drained my battery. I'm looking into a fix, but I will most likely just drill a hole in the tailgate and install a pin switch. I'll post pics if/when I get to fixing it.

Where did you ground the stereo?

My last two PathyFinders were KD and Shakira. I tend to name my trucks after celebrity women that have similar traits. It makes the naming process a little easier. KD for KD Lang since she was tough and not too attractive. Shakira liked to shake her ass, in a good way.

My '87 D21 1997 - D21 Two wheelers: 1998 - Suzuki DR650SE Pedal Power

If there is absolutely no click sound when turning the key then it is probably the ignition switch. If you hear a relay click once, but no start when turning the key it is probably the clutch switch. If it happens again, put it in neutral, leave the clutch out and press the interlock switch while turning the key. If that does the trick it's an intermittent clutch switch. Mine just started acting up recently.