Tungsten

So which wires are cut? The ones going to the back of the cluster? The old clusters have multiple connectors. You can try unplugging them one at a time and see which ones make no difference and go from there.

This came up on the status updates: Slartibartfast: Cousin put this on FB... copy http://www.moonhonda.com/inventory/autocheck.aspx?vin= into your browser, then add your vin #. Turns out mine was a fleet vehicle in New York.

Hard mineral deposits can accumulate everywhere. They will probably clog and break the rad first before going into the engine but who knows. Luckily, engine coolant has mineral deposit inhibitors. You should do a full engine flush with proper coolant and replace the radiator when you can.

Yes, that was it. It looks like a custom job to me. Maybe not hardcore but steering parts are being modified.

What kind of water do you use? Do you mix coolant with it? I hope it's distilled water.

Some good news, some bad news... The good news is I finally got the thread tapped in there. The bad news is the shop put the tap on the wrong side and destroyed the thread that I needed for this to work. FIXED:

You can try to caulk some sealant around it if you can't get any plastic repair chemicals.

It's an SE with a swapped hatch.

That's an awesome photo. I see it on Google all the time.

1. That's normal, it's just the useless seat belt reminder. 2. The water comes from the catalytic converter as it converts partially burnt or non-burnt hydrocarbons into water. 3. Normal with older VGs. The lifters just get old. Nothing to be worried about. Don't add Lucas, it's just heavy gear oil. I used it once, wasn't too happy with it. You are better off using thicker initial viscosity oil like 10. An initial viscosity of 5 is more for winter use to get the oil flowing faster. 10w-30 would be fine for where you live. You can also use a handy chart in the owners manual (or even under the hood if you still have the sticker) to decide on what oil to run.

I agree with Desert89. The shop definitely screwed up the installation of the t-bars.

That seems like it will work.

OK took the AC brace to a machine shop to get it fixed. Should be good now. Definitely is better than that MOOG thing and nunya was on the spot about that one.

Yes there are 2 different pumps. If nothing is coming out check that the line and nozzle isn't clogged. One quick way you can try to fix it is to remove the nozzle, hang that hose out of the hole, and hold down the wash switch until you see something come out.

Care to share on your choice of axles? Go with coils or coil overs, they are much better than leafs. Long arms is a nice bonus too.

It all depends on how good the top bearings are. On cheaper mounts they will fail much faster.

Mobil1 is amazing. I heard good things about Amsoil. Valvoline seems to be OK. Lucas is definitely more on the marketing side.

Not to jack the thread but in theory you can move it to the other side but then the inlet will face the wrong way. Does cross flow really matter? Other than that plastic tanks are definitely cheaper to produce and those plastic inlets do have a tendency to shear off sometimes.

So do you know why the top blew off?

Like others said, no. The passenger and driver side are mirrors of each other so the idler brace will not swap over unless you can make a mirror version of it.

Yeah it's MrJim's. I heard the VG was rebuilt with aftermarket head gaskets. Either way the problem was tracked down to bad head gaskets the last time I heard about it.

Overheating, especially more than once, will cause the head gaskets to fail. If the head gaskets go bad, the exhaust and cooling will exchange and the pressure in your radiator will go up so high that you can blow the top off your radiator. This happened before! I think this was due to using inferior aftermarket head gaskets instead of Nissan head gaskets. Plastic top radiators are really not an issue. By the time your plastic top cracks, you probably need a new radiator anyway.

Good point. Yes the 3.3 cams are less aggressive than the 3.0 cams.

How much money? What happened to the old heads? Are you looking for replacement heads or better flowing heads to add more power? You can look into a complete engine swap if you want more power. There was only one design change as far as I know in VG30E heads and it wasn't major. The better heads are on the VG33E version of the engine.