Tungsten

As real as it gets and happens more often than you expect. Looks like a video shot in Russia. Dash cams are extremely popular there. They were going upward of 60 mph when the driver of the Nissan Navara drifted into the snow bank slush pile and lost control.

1. The stabilizer absorbs sudden impact forces of the steering. If you hit something, the load from the tie rod is transferred to both the center link and the stabilizer instead of being transferred into the center link and the tie rods. 2. Bent components are fine if they are ran at the correct angles and are not molded out of cheese. Note that the pitman arm and idler arm are not straight on the factory setup either. Yes, the further inward holes are the reason for the new inner tie rods. Also, those new inner tie rods allow for up to 90 degrees of travel! The dog-bone style link inner tie rods will only travel up to about 45 degrees. You have a lot more travel with the 2WD center link so I doubt you will ever be bending those tie rods. I'm going to mount the system next week and see how it holds up.

I don't know about Hardbodies but it's not like that on Pathfinders (at least not on LHD models). The drain tube goes from the bottom of the cooling box straight through the firewall. That tube exits on the right while the exhaust pipe is on the left. It could hit the down pipe but it doesn't seem to be that close to the pipe to do so.

The exhaust runs on the opposite side of the drain. There is no way it will even get close.

x2 As others stated, the sizzling noise when you turn is water sloshing around in the cooling box. Be careful when cleaning the drain hose because if you put something sharp in there you can puncture the evaporator.

5x7 and the rear pods are 6x9 but if you have the speaker headliner then it's 5x7 all around

I would too if I had the right drill and the right tap. They have a lot of fancy equipment I don't have though so that can make the sleeve more precise. I'm going to mark exactly how I want something done next time.

Decided to get a new nut for the pitman arm... New sleeves came today, I hope my shop gets it right now. EDIT: Done. Also, how I organize my cotter pins to avoid losing them.

Not to change the topic but the tabs on my flares look like they are corroding away too. If I used wheels other than legos that have less back space I would look into aftermarket flares (because of tire laws) instead that just stick on. However factory is not a problem if you can still clean them or live in a less rusting part of the planet.

Weird... Someone posted before that they were among the first 300 to be built in TN. I guess not. So what made them special? The badge? Flares look gay with small wheels on WD21s and even more gay on R50s. They should be good with the large tires but if you live somewhere with a lot of road salt, the flares will pick up the salt and trap it in the fenders. The result is rusted fenders. I liked the look of flares with 31s on legos but had to remove them because they started to corrode my fenders.

All WD21s only came with 4 hole speakers. That 3 speaker thing is definitely custom. You should not have to drill any holes. To remove the door panel, you first have to pry off the plastic thing around the door handle. Then remove the screw cover in the lower handle and remove the screw behind it. Then slide off the lower handle to expose 3 more screws. Hit those and the door should unclip. I am not sure how to remove the manual window cranker but there should be some cover to expose the screw that holds that handle on.

Fan/Water Pump/Alternator belts that are too long is very common on these engines. Gates or OEM Bando belts should be good here.

Made you feel special. I think they were among the first 300 to be produced in North America.

I think R50s with larger wheels look much better with flares than with their flat fenders. With small wheels, it's the opposite. They definitely look neater without the flares on small wheels.

I found that the real trick to doing this properly is to actually use the special "problem solver" 2WD inner tie rod ends that are slightly meatier than the factory 2WD inner tie rod ends. No way you are bending those, they are as strong as the radius arms that connect to the center link (and it is possible to further reinforce the inner tie rods if you don't like their funky shape). The other thing here that helps quite a bit is to use a real steering stabilizer which will make those tie rods nearly indestructible and effectively double or even triple the entire life of the steering system. Putting a brace on the idler arm is a good idea as well because it puts better torsional rigidity on the idler arm shaft and helps to keep the steering tighter. I'm definitely going to try and see how far this build can go before bragging about it. My favorite part about this setup is that it allows the steering system to be ran at virtually any angle so extreme flexing and high lifts are possible without screwing the steering up at all. The other thing that I absolutely love about this style of tie rods is that they put more leverage on the wheels which will make the steering have much less feedback than the 4WD center link setup. The first thing I will do when I get this installed is to actually crank up the torsion bars to the point where the upper bump stops are just 0.5" away from the UCAs. Then try to go on the same type of trails that pigeon toe the people that run a lift with a stock 4WD center link. Finally I am going to report the results back to the forum. Stay tuned!

No, not at all. Just slide the seat forward.

That was kind of like the Limited Edition trucks here.

Do you get a check engine light? I would start by wiggling the MAF sensor wires when the idle goes funny.

No idea but safari green was a color option.

Why not? Is your frame in bad shape? I think the plow should work.

Actually the HB trucks did not have a body lift but the body to frame mounts were higher so it looks like they have a body lift. The HB frames are somewhat different from Pathfinders. The bottom holes should be the same but the brush bar may be a little bit too tall unless you already have a body lift.

Do the pink wires lead into a bundled harness or do they look like they were added on? Sometimes people try to do wiring as cheap as possible so that they could get their cheap deck from Wal-mart to work and create a wiring nest or possibly a wiring hazard. They can be a pain to undo. Generally speaking OEM wiring should not be accessible at all. The wires could also be an aftermarket alarm system that was taken out. Then you might want to check some fuses and the fusible link at the battery and see if those are blown.

Did you put the VIN after the equal sign? Don't just click on the link.