Tungsten

I have no idea what you're talking about. Just saying you don't need RTV on new gaskets. Ask any real professional about it. I already have.

looks like you nailed it

There should be a little strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump. Depending on the side of the junk particles that were sucked up they were either caught by the strainer in the tank or by the filter under the hood.

Well made headers will never leak.

Right, you will only need it if you are re-using old gaskets or have some leak somewhere. On new gaskets and a new full set of studs you don't need RTV at all. In fact gaskets are designed to seal by themselves without the use of RTV.

If your plastic top end is blowing off all the time you might want to check the coolant level and make sure that your head gaskets are still good. That should not happen at all unless you are using some bottom of the barrel aftermarket radiator.

lol i bet the center link did that

Remove the little spray thing and just have the line stick out then mash the wash button and have fun shooting crap out of it.

Actually you don't need to put RTV on the gaskets at all. I haven't done it and never had issues with them ever leaking at the engine or at the flanges. The only place I stuffed some copper RTV in was in that cross over slip fitting pipe but you can just weld that.

You can lift on factory UCAs without issue. Really the only need for aftermarket UCAs is if you are lifting more than 2.5 inches.

So I ordered one of those AC kits and look at that: The lower hole is way off. It looks like they drill them first then weld it all together. Ignore the stabilizer mount, it is actually for the driver's side.

Thanks for posting that! I was looking all over. Anyway, the 2WD trucks have a much better steering setup too even though it isn't as great for wheeling. I bet the steering system on that truck is still original too.

My sources say the most optimal position to be in is to crank the torsion bars until the upper bump stops are about 1/2" away from the UCAs.

I used a DieHard Platinum in my truck for over a year now. I have to say it has to be the best hands down. I can let the truck sit for a month and it will crank right up even in cold weather.

I know the DieHard Platinum is just a re-branded private labelled Enersys Odyssey. http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-34-PC1500T-Automotive-LTV-Battery/dp/B00249CSS2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1331431002&sr=8-7 No idea who makes Duralast.

it qualifies as a grab handle

The hardcore part is coming up... It's custom fab because this is a complete hack job. I'm fixing what isn't broken and trying new things.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31322&view=findpost&p=592265

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32629&view=findpost&p=615004 The fun has started.

First update completed. More fun next week.

The most important thing that makes this mod worth doing is that your high beams will not lag ever again. I remember how I had to wait for the right one to engage. After doing this all the problems are gone.

I like my auto hubs because I'm lazy. You also don't need to switch between locked and unlocked all the time to prevent the hubs from seizing. Manual hubs are definitely stronger and better but are a little more difficult to install and maintenance.

Inclinometer or Clinometer