Tungsten

I agree with the timing belt being too tight. If you removed all the belts and the noise was still there then it is the timing belt. Other than the timing belt being on too tight, it might also be the tensioner failing.

Yeah looks like the entire front end will have to be replaced.

Someone got off on the wrong foot again? The FSM may not mention anything about timing chains but that doesn't mean the chain doesn't wear out. Timing chains have much longer service intervals than timing belts do but the guides will more than likely wear out first before the chain does. I saw and heard it happen before (Google it if you don't believe me). It really depends on the vehicle but you will hear some fun noises once the chain guides start wearing out. When that happens you have to service the timing chain as well as the guides. The only exception from this is vehicles that don't use chain guides. For the record: http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2002-2006-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/299095-timing-chain-replacement-vq35.html

You can get away with driving on that but not for very long obviously.

Nope... That is one expensive sig. That's the kind of a pit you want to hit in a jacked up larger truck with larger tires. The R50 is meant for actually enjoying the outdoors and not ripping through mud holes like a maniac.

They have those sealing timing belt/chain covers for a reason. How did you manage to pack your timing belt with mud? If you drove through @!*% that deep you were asking for it.

Even WD21s have springs that sag in the back. No, Nissan does not make springs that don't sag.

Most likely it's a poor electrical connection but what Precise1 suggested are all possibilities too. Sometimes that negative battery clamp gets really loose and you get funky problems like that. I would check that negative battery clamp first.

Belts or chains make no difference. You still have to service either one. It's exactly like the lie they put out that catalytic converters last a life time and they don't. The plastic chain guides do wear out. On newer Nissans they wear out much quicker too. Personally, I like timing belts way more than I do timing chains. They are quiet and don't need an oil bath. Sure they have a slightly lower recommended interval than chains do but it's nice to always have new parts too.

The top still looks aligned there. You might be able to compress the spring and get it back to the right spot at the bottom.

OK yes I should have said slowly reduce the throttle but don't let go. If you instantly let go it will down-shift to a lower gear and screw you up. This is true as well. I don't have a lot of experience driving a stick but I think the best thing to do with a stick would be to depress the clutch instead and the vehicle free-wheel out of the slush while turning it out of there.

Why are you replacing the headlights? Is the bulb burned out? You can just change the bulb.

Yeah man it's definitely more street-able. That bend should not create much of an issue because those ball joints at the ends of the tie rods will absorb mostly everything. Other than that I have to say that IFS just plain sucks. No matter what you do nothing will ever be that good for handling large tires and high lifts. It's just not happening... If you truly want a good system for off-road with 4WD capability, don't look to IFS. I already saw how IFS is so much worse for steering than a solid axle is when I was putting this together and have to agree with what other people said about it. The problem with IFS is it has to have the steering piece in 3 different sections. There is nothing you can do to ever make it as strong as a solid axle system. People even bend rack and pinion systems! Like I mentioned earlier and some members did before me, if you want all out competition capable steering, forget IFS. Now there are those high dollar scissor arm IFS systems but that's a different discussion in itself.

It's not uncommon for the steering boxes with high miles to self destruct. They will usually wear out after some long mileage interval. I know my box failed. Basically, you need to rebuild the steering box (or swap to a newer one). It's not that hard but not on the easy side either. You have to remove the pitman arm, which is probably the hardest part of the whole job. I went to a junkyard and got a steering box (pitman arm included) with the accompanying lines and a reservoir. About to put it in and replace the entire system (see this thread).

Finally got this back from the machine shop: It works! Now I can start putting it in. The last thing I have to do is clean up the power steering lines I got from the junk yard and then everything can get assembled.

Yes, it's OK to hear the fan on start-up. No, you should not hear it on all the time unless it's really hot outside and you have the A/C on.

Thanks Precise1. I guess it depends on how the engine was used and what happened to it in its life time. My truck is past the 250k mark and it still runs great. 500k is probably a better rebuild interval. My next plan is to put a VG34E in it but I have to find a donor first. Before I do that, I have some other minor nonsense to get out of the way first.

I hit the slush piles before. Indeed they do tend to want to guide your vehicle in different directions even in 4WD. When that starts happening just take your foot off the gas pedal reduce the throttle but do not hit the brakes. Steer away from the slush very slowly and you will be back on the nice clean part of the road. 99% of accidents happen from people going into panic mode and steering away too fast or mashing the brakes too quickly. The best thing to do in the winter is find an empty parking lot and practice some emergency maneuvers so you get a feel for the vehicle.

I have a 1991 and it uses the newer larger taper. You can actually check what size nut is at the bottom of the steering box holding the pitman arm on. If it's a 41mm nut, you have the larger (newer) taper. If not then you have the older one. I guarantee you that you have the newer taper (newer years).

Not bad at all.

I haven't done it but I do know that there is a gasket and seal kit that Nissan sells. It should have every seal and gasket that you need for the rebuild. That's all I can chime in.

I have an aluminum radiator in my WD21 but the upper and lower tanks are still plastic and I haven't had a problem with them yet.

IFS is a poor design in general. It's just not meant for real off-roading. Yes, the steering components will still be vulnerable even with the stabilizer but the stabilizer will help to ease the sudden jerks that can cause damage. Now as far as the longer TREs go, they will actually reduce the angle of the so called stem on lifted trucks because they are longer and not from being able to articulate more. The radius arms are definitely not as strong as straight arms are but they will only give in under heavy abuse. If you are bending the radius arms, don't even bother with IFS (inferior front suspension) and just go SAS. IFS is only great on the street and mild trail riding, which is my intention. If I wanted something truly durable and rugged I would look into a SAS instead. This mod is only a band aid for the weird twisty centerlink and not much else.