Tungsten

I know right...

Actually he has a 3.3 liter v6 because it says 1997 in the profile... Either way, a single pipe has the most power and the best sound on these engines. I think R50s do something weird and don't actually use a Y-pipe. You can use a muffler with dual output though for less back pressure (if you can route the pipes properly).

Sorry to burst your bubble but you can't go true dual on this engine, all the torque will just go away and you will be left with noise. You can go with an X-pipe or a dual outlet muffler though.

Yep! One of the members here who got into an accident actually had chrome lego wheels. EDIT: Here is the link to that thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25961&st=40

The lines aren't an issue where they are I just need new lines for the new power steering box I am putting in and all the hardware on the lines I am refurbishing is deteriorating to nothing so it has been a headache.

Yep. Combine inner pathy tie rods with inner hardbody tie rods and use the hardbody 2wd link then ream out the adjusters half way and get nuts. I'm about to put it in I'm just having some power steering hose issues right now.

It depends on the tire rotation too.

Yes it will work. In fact, I am using a 4WD idler arm.

I think you need a matching VG33 block for your VG33 heads. Something tells me the cooling holes might be slightly off.

Here is the reason for the design of those tie rods: That bend is really not that bad at all. I bet you can use straight rods as well if you're paranoid and have a high enough lift to do it.

I don't remember seeing that there on a VG30E but I'm going to go check for it. Maybe there is a way to close that hole?

The valve noise comes from the lifters. Most people screw those up because they don't know that the lifters need to be kept in oil and that they have a wear in procedure. Just check the FSM.

The factory recommended 26 psi is just fine but since I run highway tires and want to keep the extra overhead to prevent them from losing pressure below the recommended amount in the cold I always bump them up to about 30 psi.

I would just grind the heads off and get new bolts.

A weak spark can cause the engine to stumble and may set off a mis-fire code resulting in retarded timing by the ECU. It's very likely possible from cheap wires!

Actually JamesRich is correct, the different materials used in cheap wires can affect the speed of the current. Check this out: http://amasci.com/miscon/speed.html

Don't bother with the lid. They have a really bad flaw where the heavy arm rest actually destroys the center console. The thin ones are just super uncomfortable and useless. The cheesy cup holder lid that opens to the passenger side is the best one from my experience.

That one is true. At the local dealer those wires ran about $130. I'm pretty sure courtesy parts may have them for less though. http://www.courtesyparts.com/22450s-cable-set-high-tension-pathfinder-wd21-08/1989-vg30e-p-544787.html?cPath=5572_7666_9281&

It's definitely worth it to get a decent set of wires. As others mentioned, cheap wires just don't last. The OEM wires are made by Yazaki, which will last a long time. NGK wires are a great alternative to Yazaki. The other brand of wires I would recommend is MSD ignition spark plug wires. On my truck I used the same Yazaki wires because the old set lasted about 15 years!

I remember going to a weighing station and clocking over 4000 lbs. They aren't light trucks because the frames are massive.

I liked the black version more but the chrome one doesn't look too bad either.

This certainly does not happen often! I'm guessing bad oil or old oil may have had something to do with this?

That's interesting, I will have to check it out now. Usually oil isn't supposed to be leaking in there anyway but I wouldn't be surprised if Nissan thought it might. Yes I see what you're saying now. The timing chain indeed does not have a service interval listed and it's supposed to be a lifetime part (which we all know it isn't). I swear, some mechanics will recommend replacing the chain at 200,000 miles as maintenance. It's just a case of conflicting view points at this point. There are tons of TSBs though telling you to replace the guides. http://www.ehow.com/facts_8041291_replace-nissan-frontier-timing-chain.html I find it weird how they don't list the chain guides as an interval as they SHOULD be considered a maintenance item but aren't. I guess the mileage they are supposed to be replaced at (or at least the manufacturer of the engine hopes so) is too high for anyone to even bother. Maybe at that point you are required to just rebuild the engine anyway?