Tungsten

You mean this...

They can stay open? I know new cars have that option but I had no idea these trucks could even do that. Not a problem for me. I always found those door jammers annoying.

Now for the fun part... These are the inner and outer tie rod ends from the 4WD system: They look identical right? They are the same. The only difference is in the right-hand vs. left-hand threading. You want the left-hand thread tie rods only, which are the inner tie rods on the 4WD setup but they are used as outer tie rods on this setup. Do not confuse them. Now here are the 2WD inner tie rod ends at the bottom: They are 2mm thicker than the 4WD tie rod ends so the adjusting sleeves will need to be bored out half-way and re-tapped. Eventually the adjuster should bring the tie rod ends closer together or further apart for toe alignment purposes. For this to happen properly, you need to use 2 inner 4WD tie rod ends coupled with 2 inner 2WD tie rod ends. Inner 2WD tie rods will not couple with outer 4WD tie rods. The top combination (inner to inner) works, the bottom (inner to outer) one does not. The side with the tick marks is left hand thread and should be on the 4WD tie rod. Tip 1: Don't forget to install the zerk fittings. When it's all done the bored out sleeves should look like this (notice the tick marks, DO NOT TAP ON TICK MARK SIDE): The final product looks like this: Tip 2: Don't forget to put anti-sieze on the tie rod threads so that the adjusters don't ever freeze on the tie rods. Some more pictures:

The next thing to do here is to add a brace to the idler arm. I used a so called AC brace from 4x4parts. Put the idler arm into a vise and remove the nut with an impact (it's a tough nut to remove when not on the truck) and slide the brace right over and then tighten the nut back down. Before re-installing the nut, using thread locker such as Loc-Tite is optional but I used it anyway. The nut should be on there pretty tight, the FSM calls for 40-51 ft lbs. Do not remove the flat washer, just remove the nut and install the brace right over. Check out the zerk fitting nut on the back. The best thing about this brace is it leaves that space open. This is pretty straightforward. Also, unless you want to rebuild your old idler arm, you can discard those white plastic bushings that come in the kit. My brace did not fit perfectly over the bottom hole and had to be slotted out: Do the trying and measuring ahead of time! Any machine shop should be able to fix these types of things. UPDATE: Finally got that arm fixed! 1 more thing to add here: The fender washers that came with the kit were what looked like 3/8" and were a little too big for the bolt so I got a set of 7/16" washers instead.

With regards to the placement of the steering stabilizer bracket, the install manual recommends to put it on the passenger side. The bracket would go on the other side of these two holes: That way it is as close to the center link as possible: Alternatively, it will also bolt to the driver's side: Some kits might have a bracket to go on the side of the idler arm that is more toward the front but this was not the case for me...

A decent steering stabilizer will make the steering system last much longer. For this project I used a Bilstein steering stabilizer: The first thing you want to do is remove the factory mount for the steering stabilizer from the center link. The factory steering stabilizer is not that great and the mount isn't as beefy as it should be. A bigger aftermarket stabilizer should be much better anyway. The OEM mount will need to be cut off to not interfere with the new aftermarket mount. Just cut the spot welds and whack it off with a big hammer. Bilstein suggests to put the dust boot toward the center link. When assembling the stabilizer make sure to put the washer with the groove on first. The groove goes over the rounded off piece so that the washer is flat against the stabilizer. Then install the bushing... Finally the side that would go to the driver's side (left hand drive) frame rail would look like this: The bracket that would attach to the center link would look like this: The whole assembly should look like this: The straight bracket goes to the frame rail on the passenger side (where the idler arm is located) on the inside part of the frame while the U-bolts attach to the center link. Note 1: The mounting hardware for the stabilizer is a little loose in my pictures because the nuts are thread locking. Everything should (obviously) be tightened when it's installed. Note 2: Alternatively you can mount the stabilizer bracket to the driver's side instead.

Optional (only needed if your steering box is bad and if you have a box made before 1992, the setup will work fine): Get the newer style steering box from the junkyard and rebuild it or at least clean it up... Don't forget the lines because the fittings are different on newer style boxes. WARNING!!! If you are going to use the newer box, DO NOT use the newer pitman arm. Only a 1991-1992 pitman arm will work properly with a newer box in this setup. The reason for that is the tapered hole for the joint on the newer pitman arm is of slightly larger diameter. You can end up destroying the joint on the 2WD center link if you run the newer pitman arm. Credit to nissannut for this picture. GOOD BAD

The factory 4WD steering systems suffer from 2 flaws. The first being that the factory dog-bone style center link will flex really bad, especially on lifted vehicles and bend the crap out of the tie rod ends. The second is that the twisting motion of the center link will negatively impact the idler arm and either ruin it or rip it off completely. There are a few solutions to this problem but the one I liked the most was combining the 2WD system with the 4WD system. Doing so should greatly improve the steering feel and response. This setup will also eliminate the flaw of the center link twisting and allow you to jack up the front end as high as possible with zero issues to the steering. In this thread I am going to show what to do to get a hybrid 2WD and 4WD system suitable for street use and off-road. Basically you need a 2WD center link, 2 4WD adjusting sleeves, 2 inner 2WD tie rods, and 2 inner 4WD tie rods (preferably heavy duty or "problem solver" type). I also got an ACDelco factory style idler arm and a steering enhancement package from 4x4parts.com. https://www.4x4parts...age-p-2582.html

yeah that's pretty good nice, simple, and clean

Get Gates V-belts, they are the best. I tried them all, even the OEM belts directly from Nissan, and Gates beats everything hands down. Just be aware that some places have the A/C belt listed as 57" but it's really 55". You need 9550 and not 9570. Changing them is nothing complicated. There are 6 bolts total. You loosen the locking fasteners and then turn the tensioners until you can get the belts off.

Sometimes the EGR valves can stick and cause poor performance and fuel mileage issues. If you don't run a cat and that's fine for where you live then you can definitely disconnect the EGR and take it to your nearest garbage disposal. Have you done a tune up by any chance?

that is ballin' now get some tires on that thing

A BPT valve is a supplementary valve that runs off the EGR valve controlling its vacuum. The system goes something like this: From the exhaust side: Exhaust Manifold -> Tube -> EGR -> BPT From the intake side: Intake Manifold -> Hose -> EGR and BPT The BPT valve reduces the vacuum from the intake to the EGR valve by creating a slight vacuum leak to the EGR valve. What this does is reduce how much the EGR valve opens and how much exhaust gas is recirculated. The BPT is an old school way to control the EGR valve. Nissan removed the need for a BPT valve by adding a cut off solenoid but then later on what they did was put the BPT back in for more performance. Remember that the EGR is meant to do one thing: Reduce NOx emissions. One of the jobs of the catalytic converter is to also reduce NOx emissions. If you have a good enough catalytic converter then you might as well toss that EGR valve into the garbage can and still be able to pass smog. I haven't tested this yet but I almost guarantee you that if you use a 2.5" Magnaflow converter you will not need an EGR valve for that extra NOx reduction.

I would do it. How much does that thing weigh? How much would the shipping be to the NY/NJ area?

looks like miles to me just about right for 300 hp

x2 Mr.510's headers are another great option if you can't get (or don't want) Thorleys. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32597&view=findpost&p=614522

Hell no. 4runners are @!*%. I would have a 4runner a long time ago if they were better. Thorley makes a fine set of headers. If mine broke, my name would be on that list already.

yeah that would work uncc, wait until you see my rear bumper

I like that first one!

These are the best. I love mine and wish I had the ceramic version instead. Definitely worth it.

Do you still have the old one? Maybe someone can sell me an unmangled and relatively not rusty one?

Long story short, my rear bumper is mangled and it's about time I did something about it. Outside of actually building a custom rear bumper for the WD21, are there any other options? I can install a factory replacement from RockAuto but can do something unique and use maybe a hardbody rear bumper instead... Did anyone ever try using a hardbody rear bumper on a WD21?

I just find it really funny how the 1993 cluster and the early 2wd clusters are so compatible. Nobody likes those square boxes but everyone praises the round one.

http://www.geocities.jp/dsgarage/car/terrano/metor.html You can translate this with the Chrome browser if you can't read Japanese.

The new Datsun will look something like this: