Tungsten

looks great better than i expected but why white lol

That's pretty handy. You can tell if your catalytic converter is going out.

That's interesting, I did not see it in the FSM. Do you have any sources to back this up?

Make sure you visually inspect ALL headers before installation. There were even horror stories with the cream of the crop Thorley headers having poor welds and cracking. I use that brand and so far they have been good to me. No cracks and no splits.

A full size spare was given to me by a member of this board.

OK thanks for the input everyone (even if you did not agree with me in some areas). I am learning more and more things myself too. First post of the thread updated! Read up on it, tell me how accurate the information looks, and maybe a mod can sticky this. I don't think it's beating a dead horse. New solutions are always possible to old problems.

indeed it is

You can run a smaller spare just never on a limited slip differential.

wow guys you get some bad gas miles first of all i would check out the timing if it's not at 15 BTDC your miles will be really bad my average is 20 mpg just so you have something to compare to the 3.3 should be even better if my front hubs are left locked then it's around 17-18 mpg

that's awesome i love the fact that you can load that with grease to prevent it from wearing out too fast i can see why the 4x4parts adapter is better than calminis solution now https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/idler-arm-brace-p-58.html i like this idea too https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/steering-enhancement-package-p-2578.html brace and stabilizer all in one kit

Those were only available on the LE models as far as I know.

I know every exhaust system can have its horror stories but OBX seems to be the worst. You get what you pay for! I would stick with PaceSetter for more affordable headers.

I will be going to a machine shop to do that. You actually need to re-tap for the inners, they are surprisingly thicker. A new thread is going up for the build.

I hope so! I know I did get pulled over at least twice for my setup but was never fined, they just looked at it and at my documentation. My setup is done right but the big fat shiny pipe coming out of the back can be an attention getter. As for the headers, I forgot to include that if you run a full exhaust with almost any kind of muffler and catalytic converter, the header length or if they are equal or not won't matter at all.

slowpoke is slow yes

that is better than calmini (because of the grease fitting) nice job

MOOG should already have strong as ever tie rods

awesome i'm doing the same

For Jeep Recovery Attach Strap Here I like it.

That's definitely not the brights then. Let me check in the FSM too... EDIT: From what I'm seeing it is either the ABS warning light or low washer fluid light.

CHECK CHECK The Calmini system is over $600. I can get high strength 2WD steering parts in a complete system for half that cost. I already did the math.

That's right, when people don't have much choice they will settle for the only option that's available to them. I'm happy that these GR4x4 links appear to not cause any steering system failures but to me, the GR4x4 link only eliminates half of the problem anyway. I find the entire geometry of the dog bone style link too awkward for any use outside flat roads. Those tie rods just don't get enough wiggle room and the link looks like it will overpower the tie rods and force them to bend off-road. That's MY OPINION. Either way, I'm pretty sure the entire community will benefit from another option I'm about to make and test. I'm not trying to just fix the idler arm. I'm building a proof of concept system to make the steering at least twice as good and twice as strong. To do that, I need to eliminate the design flaw of the stock idler arm.

unccpathfinder: i don't remember any diesel v6s brights indicator is my guess too

Any other idler arm candidates?

yes that's how you do it that adjustment sleeve has to couple the two TREs and that's all there is to it