Tungsten

whatever i'm not going to argue anymore you are the consumer so you have your own choices i don't like that option and explained why but you don't have to agree with me so pick what you like forget about the welding, i still don't like that dog bone design whether it is modified or stock because of their angles so i'm doing something different i'm going to build an entirely new system based on the 2wd link swap that will be better than the grassroots setup and possibly even better than a calmini setup much less to no bump steer with what i'm doing

I know! Nobody ever believes me around here...

Welding changes the tensile strength properties in certain areas. It removes the uniform metal across the entire link. If it doesn't break at the weld, it will break close to the weld. If Grassroots 4x4 had casted their own links then that would be a different story. Weld = Break Solid = Bend Besides, that dog bone design is crap. It puts the tie rods at weird angles over bumps causing bump steer or even a change in the toe alignment and seriously limits the amount of travel on the inner tie rods.

That's why I don't drive a Jeep.

I had it for a long while, maybe 5 years now. One time my truck failed inspection because the TREs were smashed. The roads here are a disaster in some areas. On some roads, I go about 50 miles per hour hitting pot holes the size of craters. Our roads kill suspensions and our climate just rusts vehicles entirely. The Pathfinder is one of the only few vehicles that can keep up with the roads I put it on without any major issues. As much as I try to avoid the broken roads, sometimes I have no choice and have to use them to get where I need to go. My problem with the Grassroots 4x4 link is this: The bushing things are not welded in, they are welded on. Hoohaa cuts out the ball joint part to weld in another piece, which compromises the uniform strength of the center link. There is a good reason as to why auto makers never sell cars with welded center links. My system is going to be about twice as durable as the Grassroots 4x4 hack. The steering wheel will also feel much lighter to turn because the 2wd link uses longer tie rod ends mounted at a different angle.

There is still a difference between a design that works better and a design that works worse. If you are going to go on hard core trail rides, expect to break just about anything. To nunya: Thanks for the link, I put it up.

It's not a tie rod. From what I read, it's a heavy duty tapered bearing that only moves in two directions. That thing does not move up and down at all. If anything I will go with a braced idler arm because that's the other best option.

OK but did you see it fail specifically on Nissan trucks? Also, how does it fail? In what way? Do the bearings separate?

Why? Have you even tried it? Looks can be deceiving. I didn't like it at first either but from what I read it's definitely not what I thought it was.

Anyway the issue in this thread is not about the center link but only related to the idler arm itself. I heard that you have to drill out the Pitman and Idler arms to even use that center link. Is that true? Besides that, I can name you a few reasons why I would never get a Grassroots 4x4 center link but I won't do it in this thread because of a potential flame war and my reputation sinking even further. You said your idler arm was braced and it was fine while tory said it was braced and even wore out in the brace. Next!

When I get the center link, I'll let you know unless someone chimes in first. There should be no bump steer with the 2wd link but I understand why you would need a steering damper anyway.

I have no lift, stock suspension, and my idler arm is toast (bad bushing making it bend). The design flaw in the idler arm is that it is only supported from one side. It's like a bolt half screwed in that's being pulled on the head all the time. I don't even see how putting more stress on the arm with the Grassroots link can possibly solve the problem. I call BS on that.

Those who dealt with the steering before, know the problem with the factory idler arm. There is a huge design flaw where its support is inadequate. There are a couple of solutions I have found online and the purpose of this thread is just to gather some opinions on it. Solution 1: Replace the idler arm with a different style idler arm. This part can be bought on RockAuto for about $60 and the part number is K9500, it is also known as the "Problem Solver" part. Do not get the K9500 at NAPA because that's a factory part number. For those of you thinking that it's a tie rod design, it's not. The part is described as having a double tapered bearing. For more information click here. Some people (and check this thread too) used this one before and reported good results with it. However, members of this board advise against using it saying that it doesn't last long and that the center link hits the frame when it wears out. Solution 2: Add a brace to the idler arm. Make one locally or buy one from Calmini for about $40 or from 4x4parts (aka AC or Automotive Customizers) for about $30. Keep in mind that the brace will not prevent minor movement within the arm so it will wear out even when it's braced. To patch that potential problem, you need a greasable idler arm (also see center link option at the bottom of this post). However, most people that have used a brace still agree that it is a good solution. If your idler arm does have a zerk fitting, beware of using the Calmini brace because it may not work and hit the zerk. In that case, use one from 4x4parts instead. Consider this option or this option as well, a complete steering enhancement package. Calmini brace. 4x4parts brace. Custom made brace, shown as WIP (work-in-progress). Thanks to Nefarious for this picture. Solution 3: Use a Calmini system with their own proprietary idler arm. Not sure if you can get it separately from the system or if it will even work without their proprietary system. The entire system is expensive, about $630 if you want to go that route. The only real issue with this system is that it directly connects the idler and pitman arms to the tie rods, which works but has the potential to either bend the tie rods or break the steering box. That idler arm bushing had its problem days as well (on older blue arms, not zinc plated) because of how it is directly connected. No problems, other than the idler arm bushing issue, were reported yet. Solution 4: Dual steering box mod. This mod completely replaces the idler arm with a manual steering box. Personally, I like the brace. As an option you can change your center link to this Grassroots 4x4 to eliminate the twisting of the link on the idler arm. Members that have gone down this road said that this helps. Alternatively, you can convert your system to a 2wd link setup (thread pending). My word of warning on using the Grassroots 4x4 link is that it's really just another patch created with some welding fab and welding changes the tensile strength properties in certain areas so it might cause the link to break somewhere either at the weld or close to the weld. However, nobody reported anything like that EVER happening because the welding is properly done so it should be safe to use. Keep in mind that it does not change the dog bone style setup so any problems resulting from the design will still be there but just not as bad. EDIT: Post updated.

Round it off to 2002.

Actually it's more like 2.02:1. The specs should be in the FSM.

My theory is they wanted something more compact and stronger but screwed it up completely and refused to admit it. I will be doing this conversion soon as well because it's the one that makes the most sense to me out of all the available design improvements. I will also be using MOOG parts off RockAuto, which are known to be stronger over factory in almost every case.

Cool, I'm glad that worked out. Any improvements that you noticed? It should naturally be a better system.

that's awesome

Keep in mind the sleeves will have to be modified to adapt to this hybrid system. Tap them both out halfway to 18mm.

All these can be also had from RockAuto.com if the junkyard isn't a good option for you.

If the pickle fork is for removing the pitman, you are much better off using a puller so that you don't break the box.

Thanks for seeing where I'm coming from with this. I can afford it but I would rather keep things Nissan. A Calmini system is my last resort if I can't get this HB setup done. Please keep me (or us on NPORA) posted on your progress if you start on it before I do.

I would rather go that way or get a Calmini than get a Grassroots one anyway and here is why: If you notice, all crucial steering components are always ONE piece and NOT welded. Solid BENDS while welded SNAPS OFF. Now go ahead, -1 this post if you don't agree. I'm sure everyone thinks that they are an engineer now...

what one guy that did it said