Tungsten

I don't know, the pump was replaced before without any difference. I think the return line was replaced as well. The box is still original so I'm eyeing that right now. I will also have to take a good look at that feed line. Thanks for the tips! Is it hard to rebuild the box by yourself? I noticed that nobody sells replacements for the older style box anymore.

Actually, it is a straight up float and resistor setup. However, the gauge has an anti-slosh feature, which is why it rises so slowly. I have taken that fuel sender out a few times so I know what's in there.

Around here, even liability will run you over $1200 a year for a Pathfinder and that's if you are over 25. I was rear ended before and it cost me a tire carrier, which was about $10 from the scrapper. I was hit by an Explorer, driven by an illegal immigrant, with no injuries or damage to my truck aside from the caved tire carrier. I didn't even report the accident because here they will actually jack up your rate even if it's not your fault. If I didn't have to buy insurance, I wouldn't. Insurance is the biggest scam of the millennium. I would vouch for tougher driving tests instead and higher DUI fines. I would also stay away from those tin can Toyotas.

No, I'm not that retarded. I am pretty sure the lines are good but I will try that. I may even disconnect both lines from the box and purge the system that way. Is it hard to change the box? I have a pitman arm puller.

I tried to flush my power steering fluid today by myself and as usual something went wrong. I knew something will be bad because my power steering system never worked right to begin with. I took a giant suction tube and tried to suck out the fluid while the pump was running. I noticed that the fluid was already greenish and was only able to suck up about 8 oz of it. I thought the system was just empty so I decided to fill it with some clean ATF but it would not fill past what the reservoir was holding. I was only able to put about 10 oz back into the system and the FSM calls for around 35 oz. The pump just whines and turning the wheels side to side does nothing with the reservoir open. It made a bunch of racket when I sucked up the fluid and got just a little quieter but still whiny when I put the fluid back in so I know the fluid is getting to the pump. Does that mean that the box is bad?

If you want a cheap deck, get a JVC. You will see why if you compare the specs.

I carry liability only. Out of all the money you can save, you can buy the mods again yourself.

If it's a defective cluster, I have a 1993 cluster I could send your way if you can cover the shipping.

The knock sensor itself will retard your timing so far you will notice it. Make sure that part is working right first and that there is no detonation. What kind of gas do you use?

CVTs are great but their use is very limited, partly because they are belt driven. There is a special CVT with a non-belt toroidal design currently in the works by Nissan.

check and double check

Did you count the teeth between the marks when doing your timing belt? Set the distributor at exactly 15 BTDC and leave it there. DO NOT TOUCH IT!! The knock sensor code will screw you up in the timing department. When did this happen? Most likely you will have to redo the belt.

*throws money at the screen* nothing happens

SchizophrenicMC, I agree 100%. Electric vehicles, at least right now, are nothing short of being a complete joke. You can sell anything to people with "feel good" stickers on it.

I checked that today, it even does that if I rip the horn box out. You can literally just pull them out on earlier models! The noise is most audible between the steering column and the steering wheel. It sounds like you are rubbing two pieces of paper or two pieces of hard plastic together or something like that and it's really irritating. Before I thought that the steering wheel was rubbing on the column but now I don't know. I removed everything from the wheel today and tried turning it and nothing changed. To adamzan: relax dude, I was tired. That was a joke. Maybe but I have it all the time. Looks like I will be taking my steering wheel off next.

Technically, you already have a vented hood.

The best thing to do for maximum efficiency is to have a gasoline/electric hybrid motor. The electric motor can assist with taking off and the gasoline engine can power the vehicle down the road. Of course battery power, regeneration, and cooling are issues then.

To answer your questions: 1. In the cab, from the steering wheel itself. 2. The steering wheel. 3. Happens as I am turning the wheel. Feels like something lost its lubrication or the bearing exploded.

My wheel makes grinding and crunching noises when I turn it. Is there any way to fix this? Both wheels still turn as far as I know.

let me also add the following if you are upgrading the power of your speakers then be sure to run new wiring as well 14 or lower awg wire is recommended for speakers putting out more than 30 watts

There is a diagnostic mode for that. Check the HowTo section in the Garage for information.

personally i care about clean sound rather than nut smashing bass i am going with a component system and a 10 inch subwoofer in the back possibly all the components will be from infinity (harman kardon)

The other reason your timing will go out of advance is due to a faulty camshaft position sensor, which is right in the distributor for older Nissan trucks. You might need to change the entire distributor.

Here is a header Y-pipe fitting tip: Cut back on that cross member bracket instead, the pipe should fit much easier. I have done that and was able to fit a 2.50" pipe without any clearance issues even though the amount of room there is non existent.

Does your engine have the dual spark plug setup? Are the wires on in the right order?