Tungsten

that could be a problem too which you can test for with the ECU diagnostic procedure (see howto section) there is a fail safe mode that the ECU will go into unlike TBI, the MFI trucks will run with a bad CPS just very poorly

I don't know if this has happened to you but one of the members here, Mr510 to be exact, had some weird valvetrain problem. What happened was the camshaft retainer broke off and the cam walked back and forth within the head. You might want to pull that valve cover off and look in there.

yeah a 3 inch tip will sound good

Chances are that the last timing belt done was not properly tensioned or installed. If the belt is only a tooth off, the valves don't get smacked. You will just get random misfire and timing problems. Replacing the timing belt is probably the best idea.

Maybe the flotation device got stuck? Now it's free again? Don't worry about it if it doesn't come back on again.

If you have timing issues, it's the timing belt. They sometimes jump a tooth during starting.

That works too. The only thing now is can you make it look decent and is it worth the effort to make one?

You don't, the ignition timing is NOT adjustable on MFI trucks. When you adjust the distributor you adjust the timing of the firing of the fuel injectors. It should always be as close to 15 BTDC as possible and not any place else. Explanation here -> http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31898&view=findpost&p=601636

sounds to me like the timing belt jumped a tooth

They have all been pretty long in my experience so don't bother with the O2 bung nut. As long as it still sticks out somewhat it should be just fine.

if you can build it then go for it don't forget that you will have to make new mounts the existing ones won't do that well if the bumper is on the heavy side

I think I know what you mean now, I'm going to go check tomorrow.

If you really want to do that, make sure you at least put some brush guard there. The DOT requires that you MUST have a bumper.

No, you can combine grounds to one source just fine. The factory grounds go from the manifolds to the fenders wells. The one on the driver's side is right above the steering box on top of the fender well.

A vacuum leak or bad MAF sensor wiring will make it run like garbage.

How often does it backfire? Does the truck even run? Did someone install your distributor backwards?

Looking good. Not sure about that chrome though.

Get one of those mufflers and then weld a high flow 2.50" catalytic converter to the front of the muffler. All done.

I agree and it's bad to run it low anyway.

Why are you changing the oil at Wal-mart? 1. No 2. Check with the FSM in the HowTo section

If you are suspecting the EGR valve, you can test it by pushing up on the diaphragm and see if it moves up and down.

I have had that same issue ever since I put in my 2.5" exhaust. The only fix is to wait until it warms up a little so the oxygen sensor can kick in and do its job. I'm thinking it's related to how the ECU was programmed and that's it. I also have a brand new MAF sensor and fixed that wiring for good. Let me know if you discover anything though.

From what I saw, VG30E and VG33E knock sensors are exactly the same so you can use either one. It should be good as long as it's not broken. You're right, it does use the CAS to determine the position. The base timing doesn't matter for spark because the ECU has an algorithm to determine where 15 BTDC is no matter where you adjust the distributor to. If you put the distributor on backwards you will not only cause the ECU to get confused but you will screw up the injection pattern too. Your muffler probably filled up with just enough gasoline to blow up. Essentially the distributor will do its job as long as it's installed in the correct orientation. You want to keep the base timing at 15 BTDC because the injectors will fire at the right time then and give you the best fuel economy. The only thing that has a direct effect on spark retardation is the knock sensor.

I didn't mean to get off-topic, I'm just saying don't bother playing with the distributor. It's actually very complicated but I reverse engineered the entire thing. In theory it is like a distributor-less system with a distributor. The distributor is there to only use 1 ignition coil. It's true that the crank angle sensor sends a signal to the ECU telling the ECU where the engine is but the crank angle sensor will only directly impact when the fuel injectors will fire. If you remove the distributor and spin the sensor by hand, you can hear the injectors click if you listen very close. Turning the sensor angle by adjusting the distributor will change the injector timing relative to the spark timing because of how the ECU works. The base timing does not matter for the actual ignition, the ECU will set it exactly to 15 BTDC no matter what. How does it know you ask? It has the ability to delay or advance the spark based on where the crank angle position is set or if the knock sensor mode gets activated.

Nope, on ECCS vehicles the distributor's CAS only controls the fuel injectors directly. There are more sensors than you think. The timing belt is way off if it doesn't work like it should.