Tungsten

Done it that way too and if that sensor is rusted in there then so are those bolts that hold the pipe in place.

Their design is different and factory pipe gaskets only work with factory pipes. Also, factory pipes have overlap flanges so you can use whatever gaskets as long as they're gaskets. However, you will need some regular gaskets if you use 2" replacement pipes.

Good info but I said IF the water is salty and in English IF does not mean IS. To do this right, you are looking at a very big and costly project here. You can always suspend some barrels and use them as floats and put a outboard motor on the back but that will make you look like an idiot on the water.

Just a quick FYI: On MFI trucks, turning the distributor does NOTHING to the spark plug timing. The timing curve is actually controlled by the ECU and not the distributor. You only set the base timing to 15 BTDC so that the fuel injectors will fire at the right time.

put some more muscle in it on more serious thought yes it's 22mm for the big sensors (newer years) and if i can recall correctly 17mm for the old sensors if you can get a wrench to stay on there tight you can kick the sensor loose with your foot but be careful not to round off the nut and i have almost done that once

lmao nice maf adapter i would say that your boost in power comes more from the removal of air intake silencers rather than installing that cone thing

That is correct there is no bulb check for the low fuel light. However, when you turn the ignition on there is a weak voltage across those contacts, which is not enough to turn on the bulb and probably has to do something with the little cylinder mechanism on the sender. When that little thingy on the sender trips from a low fuel level, the light should go on.

Maybe but one of these days I'm going to do some more experimenting. James could be right where they just replaced the float with a switch like device. They did the same thing with the oil pressure gauge too. Pathfinders used to have oil pressure gauges and then Nissan just decided to give you a light instead of a gauge and they replaced the pressure sensing sender with a switch style sender. +1 for that pic I never knew they had this design too.

Factory anything is almost always the best but it may not be worth the cost sometimes though. Typical parts store gaskets should work just fine. The only ones I would get at a dealer are those that sit between the manifold and the head.

Yes

That makes sense why it would have two floats then. Once the fuel line got below 1/4 mark it would make the bottom float work like another tank. I wonder if the little cylinder thing works in the same way but just starts much later at like 1/8 of a tank. Anyway, you never want that light to be on in the first place. It is generally a good idea to refuel at the 1/4 mark whenever possible. Doing so will save the fuel pump from burning out because the gasoline actually cools the pump.

Actually, I have pulled the sender out and I did see the little cylinder mechanism on the bottom. The sender, or any of its components, should never be dirty inside the gas tank because all that stuff is always swimming in gasoline. I think they replaced the bottom float with that little cylinder, which may actually have variable monitoring capabilities. Here is how I can prove this: A regular fillament bulb that sits in that little fuel graphic box will actually take above a certain voltage to turn on. On the other hand, an advanced LED bulb will work with any voltage applied to it. Replace that bulb with an LED and you will see that when you start the truck the LED will light up, which means that there is some voltage there while the truck is running and it will get brighter if you start to get low on fuel. A regular bulb will only start to get brighter after a certain voltage is applied to it but not when there is enough fuel in the tank. I think this calls for some more experimentation!

It also depends on where you live. There are no CarQuests anywhere in my area and nothing that great in Pep Boys or Advanced Auto.

RockAuto

I guess you can use that to correct a lean burning condition but it won't be any good for a stock setup. Then again if your oxygen sensor works properly, it should be able to correct a lean condition. G-Force Chip = Junk!

toss that junk or bring it back for a refund go to a junkyard and get a real maxima alternator and have that rebuilt just curious which alternator did you buy exactly?

I have the same problem right now. Luckily you are closer to this nice re-builder place called Red Head Steering Gear.

If that's salt water you can say good bye to that frame.

Buy a boat

No

Truckers have switched to LEDs for that reason! As far as I know it should be a regular flasher.

No, that's not the Y-pipe. I actually have the Doug Thorley headers which come with a Y-pipe and end in 2.50" and here you can see my intermediate pipe: That pipeage you see on the chair is the tailpipe. It goes from the muffler over the axle and around the gas tank while clearing the upper crossmember. I was just showing it for fab comparison purposes.

Some of that is correct, some cars really do nag you about burned out stop lamps and head lights. I wasn't sure if WD21s did that but I don't remember them complaining in any way if one of the lights are out. Sometimes it can even be a pain to check for burned out stop lamps if you have no one around to push down on the pedal. Then again there is always that ice scraper against the seat and brake pedal trick.

I doubt the brake lights will affect the cruise control. I would double check with the FSM for that though.