Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Tungsten

Members
  • Posts

    4,885
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    57

Everything posted by Tungsten

  1. Tungsten

    LED's

    You can but why do it that way? I know it's probably the cheapest way but it seems like more trouble than it's worth. Why not just get a different flasher that's made for LEDs?
  2. THIS PHOTO REQUIRES AN NPORA PREMIUM ACCOUNT

  3. Looks reasonable but you could have used an actual Y-pipe bit. I can't say I have done any better than you have though.
  4. Tungsten

    LED's

    There is no blinker module, it's just a flasher. The load drops with one bulb out so it goes faster but LEDs run at such low voltage that it's the same as not having a bulb. Replacing the flasher relay with an electronic flasher is probably the best idea.
  5. Like you said, take the bed off and lay it down. Then do some measuring on the frame to make sure the frame was not bent out of shape.
  6. Nope, changing that harness is easy as pie. That is more money you have to spend though. I tried to get a REMY gold but they went on back order. So I ended up with a real Nissan Maxima one I took to a rebuilder and got it back like new.
  7. They are nice but you will have to upgrade your charging harness.
  8. If I were to drill out the heads, I would remove them off the engine first and replace the head gaskets in the process.
  9. Let me explain what is actually going on here. Back in the day, when Pathfinders first came out, they had a secondary fuel gauge to monitor the reserve fuel left in the tank. Over time they phased out the secondary gauge with a little fuel light. Some say it was to discourage people from running low on fuel because it's bad for the pump. Now when Nissan replaced the secondary gauge with a light, they did this in a very lazy fashion. They literally just took out the gauge and wired a light into its place instead. When you see the light slowly come on, this is equivalent to the secondary gauge going down. In fact you can still replace that little light with a secondary fuel gauge. As the reserve dries out, the resistor decreases its resistance and increases the voltage to the light until the light glows bright, which means you are out of fuel. Now with that in mind, corrosion on top of the sender can do funky things. Take that fuel sender cover off and take a look at that sender.
  10. They take a long time to fill up. Probably 80,000 miles on average. There are many things that 60s and 70s cars never had but should have had. That's the way the automotive industry works. They keep re-using the same designs but improve them over time to increase their reliability.
  11. You probably never worked in a shop that does A/C servicing. That is not true at all. Evaporator issues are in fact quite common. I am not trying to sell you on filters, I'm just saying adding one would be beneficial. You can probably get away without one but it is still better to have one for better reliability.
  12. Yes but cars have also been made for years with no air conditioning packages. The addition of air conditioning to cars also added its own problems which were recently revised and the system was perfected.
  13. It does and many new vehicles do but every new vehicle also comes with that filter. It's definitely nice to have that extra layer of protection there. I would retrofit one if I could but wasn't able to find anything that would fit. I'm just hoping that the finer cowl screen is good enough.
  14. If you want to be the first one to find out the hard way...
  15. That all depends on their cowl grille design. The WD21s actually had revised cowl grilles with finer cowl slits because some crap like rocks could fall in between the older wide slits. I think a small rock shot into my evaporator core and poked a fine hole in it. I replaced the evaporator core and got the revised cowl grilles too. I have not had issues since then but I still do find the occasional piece of a leaf shooting into my face from the vents from time to time, which is why I wish I had that filter there.
  16. Those cowl grilles will stop much of the junk from falling in there but they will not stop everything. If you had to clean out the crap behind them, some of that made it into the box. I bet if you remove that blower resistor and check the box out inside you will find some crap inside the box.
  17. Some people live in places where there are more trees around. Leaves and all sorts of crap usually falls into the cowls and goes right into the evaporator box.
  18. The filters are actually pretty tough. It's completely up to you but it's worth installing one in my opinion.
  19. Those filters are not very expensive. Just do it the right way.
  20. No, it is before the evaporator core. Here is where it goes: Do you see it now?
  21. Yes but its secondary function is to stop junk from traveling through the core. Look at all the R50's that have the filters. Their cores are super clean! This is why I wish the WD21s had one too.
×
×
  • Create New...