MaritimeMan

Its a good feeling when you finally tackle a project like that and come out sucessful. Congradulations. Welcome to the tranny club

tehe it sounds like German in the end, I get it.

And you're welcome for those JGC coils too B. Yeah, lifting a Pathy can be fairly easily. Read those links, re-index the t-bars, replace them if they still sag, and go with the JGC coils. 20 bucks for a 2" lift, you can't go wrong. You want more, then the bucks come.

to change it no, there's no other way. When I put my new motor in, it didn't have the mounting hole for it, so I just drilled a hole into the bell housing, engine side, and made sure the bolt didn't hit the flywheel. Close enough to do it's job, yet it's now accesible.

jeez, you guys still posting on this thing? Let my laziness die already, I'm too lazy to do anything else about it.

HAHAHA, ok excuse my laugher but that's just plain funny. Have fun finding the nest, and hope they didn't poop too much.

LOL if you want the ultimate lazy; order the bolts from AC, measure them, post the measurement on the web, then send them back and find them for cheeper on the web. Now thats lazy. I think I might do that.....

Or you could do what I did, and get the best of both of best worlds. I know this is goin a bit futher than you intended, but bear with please. I just built a box, one half is sealed, the other half is bandpass style, with a 10" eclipse sub in each side (Subs) This give me the best of both worlds, as I do listen to alot of techno, but will rock out with the best of them to the hardest metal riff you can imagine. Try it you'd be amazed.

I'm with Mr. P on this one. Most tubes are poot quality at best, and it's not a matter of if it's gonna blow, it a matter of when. There are plenty of good priced 10" subs out there. Like he said, just use a bit of particle board to build a nice cozy enclosure that you couls even mount an amp to. Thats what I did, and I can have it out in 2 min, amp and all. Then again, I have 2 amps, with the second being mounted on the back of the rear pass seat. I'll see if I can drum up a camera and take a few pics for ya. Just be warned, by box is not small, but easily removed for trip reasons.

..... runs for sun glasses

29091 is the part number for warn premium hubs, 90-01, 28 spline shaft 28739 is the part number for warn premium hubs, 86.5-89, 27 spline shaft

I wrote them in search of info about the bolts they add to their BL for 91-95 pathfinders: To: info@4x4parts.com Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 9:41 PM Subject: Info on your 91-95 Pathfinder Body lift Hello, I am searching for information on your 3" Body Lifts for 91-95 Pathfinders. You web page says the required bolts are added to the kit. I have purchased a Performance Accessories 3" body lift, and the specifications for the kit says 87-90. I was wondering if you could please supply me with the dimensions of the bolts you add to the kit, so I may install it on my 91 Pathfinder. Thank you very much for your time, and I look forward to your response. Ryan Seems fair enough, just lookin for some info so I can put mine on. Here's what they replied back: From: "4x4parts" <info@4x4parts.com> To: "Ryan Tarabochia" <crazzycroatian@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Info on your 91-95 Pathfinder Body lift Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 15:04:23 -0400 Hi Ryan, The body lifts we sell include the bolts. If you purchased the kit somewhere else, we can sell you the bolts separately for $7.50 per bolt. These are not available in the US. If you would like to order or have further questions, feel free to contact us. Jane Miller Automotive Customizers 1700 NW 22nd Court #2 Pompano Beach, FL 33069 954-971-3510 (fax) 954-971-3770 www.4x4parts.com HAHAHAHA since when are bolts not available in the US?!?!? Seriously here. I mean, sure they have a business to run, but jeez. Just another reason why I am going through the method of figuring out what I need on my own than buying the kit from a Sh!tty company.

Sold. I'm riding up to Reno this weekend for the bike show, but next weekend, I'm there. Goin to NIN on Friday the 30th, but I can come over Sat. If you pick up materials, can I pay ya when I get there?

Your truck looks like it now has boobies. Looks great B, that came around nicely. So where's mine?

HAHA I spotted the beer on the roof, doin yard work with one hand cause a beer is in the other again Mr. P?

Auto hubs have convienence going for them, and that's it. As prior stated, manuals are stronger and more reliable, but they also do a better job when you are spiinin the front wheels. eg: You have burried your front end in some mud, a root, whatever an need to back out. When going from forward rotation to reverse, an auto hub will have to disengauge, and the wheel will have to spin a couple of rotations before they will re engauge in the reverse direction. This extra spinning my cause you to just dig yourself deeper. A manual will remain engauged the entire time. I think what B was trying to say is that you can leave the front hubs locked and pop into 2 HI, but that is only recomended for short distances, as you CV axels will still spin, and wear unnecessarily.

Ok trannies do not need a BFH at all. If it's not comming apart, or going toegther, something is wrong. If there's a small gap between the housing and the adpater plate, try suckin it in with the bolts, tighting each a bit at a time. See my post on your other thread for recomendations.

Ok some quick info that I know since this almost exact scenario happened to me about 4 months ago. One. Your tranny is gonna bolw. Get used to the idea. Mine did this exact same thing. It started out as just 3rd, then 2nd started doin it, and later 4th. 5th was the only one that would stay in. Just use your hand to keep it in place. The gears are helix gears, meaning the teeth are at an angle to allow for better meshing and quieter opperation. There is play in your tranny somewhere that is allowing them to come unmeshed due to the axial forces generated by this helical configuration. Two. Forget the rebuild. I asked around, and there is no "rebuild kit" offered by Nissan for our trannies. I blew my input shaft bearing, which in turn hosed the main gear as well as buggered up the counter gear. Don't think of buying just these gears for a couple reasons, first off being that you have to buy them as a pair and just those together with the assosiated bushings, spacers, clips, etc, is over $1300, and second, Nissan switched vendors so many times over a short number of years, there is no guarantee that the new one would even mesh with my old ones. Three. GO BUY A FSM IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON CONTINUING ON YOUR OWN. Period, exclamation point. Four. Start lookin for a used tranny. You can go with the peace of mind with a rebuild, but look to spend around $1200 for it, plus shipping if there's not one in your area. Got the bucks? Check ebay. I used www.car-part.com To find one near me. I paid $700 for one in Portland OR with verified 64K on it. By Verified, I mean it was checked out and was acceptable for the 64K which was on the vehicle. it cost me another $90 to get it shipped to me in the bay area, but I get a huge discount through my work on bulk shipping, so expect to pay a little bit more. This is where the FSM comes in handy. It shows pictures and specific instructions on how to take the tranny down. Take it apart yourself once you get it and check the innards. The lower the miles the better, but also expect to pay more for less, if you catch my drift. Depends on where you shop. Every one I found in Cali had 130K+ on it and they all wanted around a grand. Crazy buggers, you have got to be kidding me. Five. Wait for tranny to blow, remove, replace, wheel. This is about what you can expect to expect. A shop will rape you, no lube, so doin it yourself will be you best bet. It's about 4 hours to remove the old one, call it another 3 to dismantle and put back together the new one, and another 6 to install. Intallation takes longer due to gettin that damn thing to line up right on the back of your engine. Also, if you have any worries about takin the new one apart and puttin it back together, take your old one out and take it apart first. It comes right apart, with light tapping (no pounding) as long as you follow what the FSM says. And make sure you are following the right directions for the tranny. there are 2 different trannies in there, and it's the 2nd of the two listed. Good luck, God Bless, you're gonna need it. Oh, and if you have any other questions, gimme a holler, but I think I covered just about everything.

Yeah yeah, I know B. I was just trying to save myself the effort. Bike's in the shop right now gettin new rubber and a bunch of other stuff done, so I was tryin to get the stuff I needed ahead of time. Excuse me for being lazy, I forgot, you have NEVER done that yourself. BTW, I never got that Email you sent me with the picks. You sure you got the addy right?

yeah, I'm aware of that one Mr. P. But you know how AC opens the lift kits and adds the proper bolts? Well what I am asking is, what bolts do they add? Thats all.

Ok, I have a BL for my 91. In some places I've looked, it'll be fine. In other's, I'll need to add bolts in certain parts. With the standard Performance accessories lift do I need to get new bolts for the body? PA's application guide says up to 90, but in thread's that I have searched through, it says up to 92. So which is it? Also, if I do need to get the bolts, any one who has done one know the size off the top of their heads? That would save me alot of trouble. Ok, thanks for the heads up. M.M.

any specific years for the HB swap?

Another good place to put them, if you have one, is up above on your "spoiler." Just get a bracket that can bolt to the spoiler, as well as to the light, that way, with a bolted hinge for a pivot. that way, they can be folded down to be less resistant when driving down the highway and folded up for off road use.

..... Takes hands out of pants. Those are some good lookin rims there Red. I agree, your rig looks good.

lol, no pertinent info here, just laughing at your runnin with scissors. Thats great. Be nice MM, we are here to inform and help (generally)... B