MaritimeMan

Yeah, thats where I was goin with this. I read your write up on the box, and was wonderin about the wires. I'll let ya know how good the write up is once I order and install.

Really only proper way to check for bent valves is by pullin the heads. You could put it all back together and pray it didn't bugger anything up. If you quit drivin right after it died, there shouldn't be any damage, as long as the motor straight died and didn't wind down from high rpm.

R50= :help: :furious: WD21= :cool2: :bow: -bounce-

Which classifieds? If you are talkin about here, I'll see what he wants for em.

Found the kit on ebay. Here's the guys I got it from, they're at 75 bucks, thats what I paid: Ebay body lifts He was pretty quick in turn around, and the kit was a brand new PA. Shipping is reasonable, as it does weigh a bit. It show's he's got 10 left, so you might wanna snag one while ya can, even if you aren't plannin on puttin it on till later. Yes 88, I do need to crank the t bars a bit, but I think I sprung one, cause she won't sit level no matter what I do, and I'm gettin tired of the crappy steering when I crank em, cause my steering box is goin out. Dunno, add that to the list of things to fix.........

Yeah I have Calmini's upper control arms, and a set of JGC coils in the rear with a 1/2 in spacer. I had just the JGC's but due to the added weight of the tire carrier, I decided to add the spacers that 88 gave me. They're the tough rubber matting material, and I haven't had any issues with em yet.

I'll have to do some driving to see how it works out. Dunno, no real road trips planned yet, but I do have a group of guys at my school that want to do some wheelin.

Cool, thats exactly the info I was lookin for. Thanks Wheelman

So I finally got it all back together. It would have been done soon, but this past week was hell as far as school was concerned. I followed the write up in the how to section, and it worked pretty well. And with out further adue...... Before: After: AS I mentioned before, I tweeked my relocation kit for my oil filter. I finally made a bracket for it and put 90 degree nipples to keep the oil from draining out as much. I also added an oil cooler between the radiator and the fan.

search feature cleaverly desguised as a search button in the upper right corner It's way more accurate than your average 8 ball Please 'scuse the sarcasim, you'll find alot as you get used to us, welcome to the nut house.

Any one else know?

Duct tape is rated at 100 mph. Not sure what that translates into in radial velocity, but I'd imgaine it would hold.

Nope, not at all. The crank rotates 2:1 in relation to the cams. For every 1 cam revolution, the crank goes around twice. Basic 4 stroke engine. Yes you could line up #1 TDC from the distributor, but unless you pull a valve cover, you might be 180 degrees out with your cams. That means your exhaust vavles are opening when the pig is trying to fire, you run into clearance issues and all sorts of nastys.

Nah, distributor is gear driven off the crank, so that won't do you any good. Venison(sp?) Mmmmmmm

Here's a good place to ask..... Does any one have a template I can use? Mine are completely hosed of years of abuse, and I just ripped the remaining shreds out when I did my BL. If someone who has already made a set (yep, I need pass and drive) and wouldn't mind sending me a template, I can find some way to compensate. Thanks M.M.

Hehe, here's another one that needs to be moved to the "How To" section, comedy and information. Learn is fun!!!! BTW, IF I was a mod, I'd move it (hint hint hint)

Take the skid plate off and turn the alt by hand from underneath. It's a stupid location to put an alt, but it is easy to work on. Even easier if you remove the shroud. Since the belt's already off, check 'er out and report back.

hmmmm I'm gonna go against B and say the timing belt. It might be other things, but like you said, you have no idea of it's past maitainence, and who knows the last time it was changed. It happened right after you were climbing a hill, and if it was old and worn, this may have streched it past it's point. My other clue is the turning over. If it's doing that, then most likely the fuel system is ok, but don't rule that out either. The reason I say that is a clogged filter will sputter before it dies, it's a gradual thing, not snap. As prior mentioned, see if the ECU fires anything at you, grab a new fuel filter just in case, and hope for the best. Good luck bud. M.M.

Hmmmm, I don't recall mine lookin like that. I'd send that pic directly to Thorley and see what they say. I had some email interaction with them while I was shopping around for headers. They were quick to respond, and very informative about their product specs. I'd see what they say. You might bring up that you know others who have the same and they didn't have the ridge like that.

If you have another set of wheels, I'd say pull it and open her up and take a gander to see if it's anything of the prior mentioned. From the vibration complaint, my guess would be the bearings.

Upgrade!!! Time for headers. I love em, best move I ever made, sounds cool too.

Got me on that one, I did it all myself.

Here it is, original config. I'll let you know how the new set up works in 3k miles

I'll see if I can find a pic how I intially set it up. It worked fine, however, it made a bigger mess than before whenever I changed my filter due to all the oil in the lines draining out. I just reconfigured it on a bracket so it's straight up and down, then put 90 degree nipples on the filter adapter to keep the lines from draining out. No pics of that yet, I'll drag a camera along tomarrow.

Actually it's not really that wierd. Every rotating object has a natural vibration frequency. If something's outta whack, and that vibration increases in amplitude (read gets worse) it would be entirely possible that it happens @ 30 as you are compounding the problem with the natural frequency.