MaritimeMan

Cool, thanks guys, exactly the info I was looking for.

For example, the gas motor is a VG30E, what is the designation for the diesel motor found in European models? I'm toying with the idea of cramming a diesel in her now that I have another daily driver.

This thread makes me want to go watch Star Wars

got it

Just to let you know, Husky makes an impact with the highest Torque setting for 1/2". If I remember right, it a whopping 500ft-lbs, and not horribly expensive. Home Depot has em.

Yep Slick is right I do have the ceramic coated Thorleys and they have performed very well. The main difference between the two is construction and assembly. The pacesetters are made in Mexico and look like they gave a welder to a 10 year old and said have at it. Yeah the EGR tube was fun to get it, but all I had to do was loosen the header from the head to give myself enough play to geteach end started. Retighten head, then each end of the EGR, in that order and it souldn't be too tough. Oh and as Casey.T said, spend the couple extra bucks, I think it cost me like $30, to replace all the studs.

Way to go, it's about time get em every time

Just to update, I have both of my headers off and they exactly like yours on the mating surfaces. They have been on for over 2 years now, and showed no signs of leaking on the head flanges.

Yes, but what about a 3.3 with all those aftermentioned parts B? That would be an even better motor.

You still haven't gotten that thing off? Sheesh, and you give me crap about not gettin stuff done...... Pot meet kettle, kettle, meet pot....

I do mine at the same inteval as the plugs and cap. That way you know everything is new and serviced and ready to go. I have a '91 and all it is, is a small screw on the backside of the rotor holding it onto the shaft. I would imagine it is similar on yours.

Oh yeah heh heh, that too, I knew I was forgetting something....

Nah just be carefull. Use a breaker bar and get it as close to the frame rail as psossible, so when you bump it, it doest get too much momentum. Also, just bump it, don't crank it over. Good luck 8)

Didn't some one, I want to say Mr Pickles, say that they bought an alignment for life pacjage from Firestone?

One other thought on breaking that bolt loose if you don't have an impact gun is to use some small line, about 1/4" or 3/8" diameter. Make a loop on one end and then double it back to make a lasso that binds when you turn the pulley in the direction of loosening. Then just wrap it around a few times and tie it off on your frame. It will streach some, but if you use a breaker bar, the bolt will pop loose.

Bah only if you're not careful and put it on the thin metal edge rather than the nice beefy edge in the middle, sheesh. It takes a bit of fenagling to get it to sit on there right, but I use em all the time, no problems. Edit: It sounds like he has the good puller any how, the main crankshaft bolt just needs to be removed.

All you should have to take off is the big bolt on the middle, 27mm I believe, and use a 3 jaw puller like one of these.

I didn't vote cause my option isn't up there. I have it, but don't feel like shellin out the cash to recharge with R-12, which most mechanics won't touch, or converting to R-134a

Ebay strikes again Just did a quick search for louvers, and found those, those look kinda cool

ZOMG!!!

Ok so as promised, here are some pics of what you are getting into, and as prior mentioned, nothing too difficult, just make sure you have a torque wrench for putting it all back together. Ok step one is take the valve cover off, also refered to as the rocker cover. Once that is off, you will see something that looks like this. Keep in mind, this one has already been taken apart and I just pieced together for the pics, note the blue zip ties, we'll get to that later. Next step is to remove the bolts holding the rocker shafts in place. Now the bolts that hold them in place also hold the lifter block in place as well. For this step, just remove the rockers on their shafts. Make sure to take note of any special order to take these off. Haynes manual said to even take note of their specific location, as they are different lengths, but I found this to be false. The bolts were all the same length in mine. It should look like this: Ok now we come to the little blue zip ties. The lifter block should be loose now, but DO NOT pick it up. The lifters will fall out to who knows where and get mixed up, this is not good. Use the zip ties on the top shoulder to keep them from falling through. The FSM recomends using wire, hey, whatever you have around. Here's a close up, followed by the lifter block out and you can see them trying to fall out: Thats about it, not too much else, good luck and happy wrench turning.

Not gonna deny that as a possibility. May have tweeked something while in there that started it all off. But like a tootsie pop, the world will never know...

Let me take some pics for ya, I have one of my heads appart and the rockers taken out. It's actually quite simple, and I'd say for both sides, allow for a couple hours, as the intake plentum covers one side, and if you have never taken that off it can be fun. I just followed my FSM when I did it, with some x refence to chilton's.

Hmmm thats an intersting theory. Red, at any time just before yours broke, did you tinker with the timing belt at all? I did with mine, but I pretty much did it by the book, with the exception of running the feeler guage through.