sammyb33

my guess is the MC cant keep up with the extra fluid needed to push those 4 piston calipers....Do the older ZXs still have the proportioning valve on the MC like the newer ones do? If not, I would go pick up a newer MC and slap it on

no GG you got it backwards, as you crank them , the arms swing down in their range of motion, effectively making the camber off, making the tires like this \\ //

GG you know they are about an inch wider, but you didnt do the swap yourself?

also, post a link to where you got that quote from Desert Rat plz

yes your missing it. Dessert Rat was refering to some frontiers, the Dessert runner models, that had the wider axle housing, but used the 31 spline shafts...no pathfinder after 95 came with 31 spline shafts. if you dont believe me, please go ahead and buy it.

they do not make a lockrite that fits your application, they only make them for the older model rear axles....the only locker that will fit your 99 is an ARB

i didnt use any grease in mine either, all i did was lube everything down really good with brake fluid, filled both cylinders with it before i closed them up..

no need to fool with the booster being pulled out, you can leave that where it is, the brake pedal goes in easy. the only problem is the HVAC vent molded hose runs right where the upper bolts need to mount to the support on the firewall, so you just need to finagle around that. get some 3/8s and 1/4 u joint sockets for that job, and a bunch of extensions.... PM me if you need help or have questions!

they dont allow jacks but allow crazy use of wheels as jack stands huh? as far as this goes, i have done this swap twice, and have not had to pull the entire dash to complete it, just the under-dash... but this was on both 95s, with the curvy dash... as far as the rest of the questions, i just ordered new from nissan on the clutch lines after the dampener. oh and as far as the master and slave cylinders, you should just go ahead and get the rebuild kits for those while you have them out, they are cheap and easy to do.

you could easily do a chevy 63 swap in the rear of your hardbody http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalo...swap-p-279.html

hah what do you use? gas!?!?!?

I love the Lucas "Red and Tacky" personally, pretty much use it in everything. If i ran out of that, I just use the Valvoline that has the anti-seize in it.

I am doing an auto to manual swap on my newly purchased 95 hardbody and do not have the crank to flywheel bolts. I have done this swap before on my pathfinder, but when i pulled the flywheel myself off of the donor truck I remembered to take the crank bolts with me... This time I bought the tranny and flywheel off of a friend, and he did not keep the bolts. So, I am hoping to not have to buy a couple bolts from nissan for an outrageous price of 6.80 (local price) plus shipping. So, anyone have their transmission out, auto or manual that can tell me the thread pitch and size of the bolts for me? If I can get the size then I am sure fastenal or spar metric near me will have the bolts for peanuts compared to nissan. Sure I love driving my nissan and love my new truck but I will be damned if i go to my local nissan dealership, bunch of thieves and horrible to deal with, dont want to help out any nissan owner that is driving anything older than 04. Very frustrating. Any help would be appreciated guys!!!

this is what i do not understand, why out of all the struts out there, and all the strut manufacturers out there, is there not an identical strut for a r50 that is about an inch or two longer, this would nearly cure the "topping out" sensation and make for a better ride....

That is something that needs to be fixed ASAP. If it breaks off along the rest of the upper strut mount, that means it sends your strut and tire towards the hood, and sends you pulling to the right into a ditch or worse. I am surprised the mechanic did not say quit driving it, if the whole mount flexes because of the rust hole that is very scary stuff. That being said someone with some patience and a good base knowledge of metal fabrication should be able to cut and patch that well enough. I imagine it would be costly to get it fixed though. Good luck and hope it works out for you.

ummm, right. so this shudder feeling? when downshifting correctly you shouldnt feel anything out of the ordinary. if you had not noticed your automatic downshifts on its own to help slow you down. watch your rpms when slowing my WD did it on its own (grant it not very much but did when i was decelerating, like on an off ramp). Downshifting does not do any more wear and tear on an engine than driving it to the grocery store. all you are doing is using the compression the engine already naturally has to help slow the vehicle. I have never heard any rumors to what engine braking when done smartly (not slamming it into such a low gear your tires squeal) and correctly will ever do damage to your vehicle

yep. also, for some reason the sylvania H7 bulbs have been notorious for blowing lately. I work part time at advance auto parts and i dont know how many H7s i have changed in peoples vehicles(same people/vehicle many times). we occasionally replace them for free because we realize this is an issue.

GG u happy with that gibson unit?

i used about a gallon, and prep was rough up the area to be herc'ed (obviously tape off areas not to be) and wipe down with acetone, and roll it on. i did two coats, but am thinking about getting a underbody coating sprayer and doing it again with another gallon. put it on thick is all i can recommend, i wish i would have used about a gallon and a half, did it in about a day, with ample drying time in between with help of some friends.

i herculined my exterior from the body line down, and all of the front fenders...heres what it looks like

if you can cut and weld get some creeper joints from trail gear. or actually i think steevo has some on his site that actually fit directly into the stock link mounts...

just curious alex, what are you selling the kits for? and what design are you using? PM me if you dont want to share it...

B, these glasses, care to send up a link? i have been somewhat looking for a good pair of glasses with a small LED light on them to help me see when working underneath. link me up

yea Chris, are you talking about a block at the rag joint (the rubber piece in the steering shaft that flexes) that would space the rack out just enough for a 2 inch subframe drop? I cant completely remember but i believe it can be done (taking Max's apart so long ago havent seen another r50 up close)

yes, not much, but a little more, at most a half a quart