sammyb33

no, the ARB mounts the same way on pathfinders and hardbodies. My new bumper for my pathfinder will not be DOT approved, but I will not be driving it on the street much. I was hoping to put the ARB on my hardbody, which is my DD.....

OK, no i am not in a position to need a DOT approved bumper. I enjoy the fact that if i hit someone and do damage with my winch bumper I can not be pursued for endangerment and possibly manslaughter because of an illegal modification to my vehicle. That was just the reason for me searching out an ARB. Yes Red my intent of selling would be so I could purchase something else to better suit my needs. I can have a tube bumper made locally by a friend of mine that owes me some favors. I just dont know if keeping the ARB and moding it is worth it in the long run. Or if the cash I could make off of the sale would be worth it... Just frustrating because I LOVE how the ARB looks on the d21 line of nissans, but getting the money sure would be nice right now, it would speed the process of the SAS up very much.....

Not sure where exactly I should be posting this, and the off topic section seemed the best option. I am contemplating selling my ARB Winch bumper off of my pathfinder. Reason I am selling is if i wanted to keep it on the pathfinder it would have to be modified around my front spring hanger. That was my original plan. But all in all, I would never be able to sell it again if I modified it. I also own a 95 hardbody, but seeing as the hardbody came with either taller body pucks or different body mounts themselves compared to a pathfinder, it basically has a 2 inch body lift from the factory. Again, it would have to be modified. Also on a side note, anyone looking to get a winch bumper (arb) and already have a 2 inch body lift, order an ARB for a hardbody and it will be already modified to fit your BL. Even if you have a 3 inch, just a one inch difference wouldnt even look that bad. So back to my dilema, I am not sure what to do. I really like the ARB because it is one of the only bumpers available that is DOT approved. If i modify it (even on the hardbody) it will no longer be DOT approved. So I am thinking I should sell it. What do you guys think?!?!?

I also love rainX, and as far as the chattering wipers, try putting rainX on your wipers when you apply it to your windshield, seems to work for me. I LOVE rainX and just for the record I use the wipe on stuff, as well as the washer fluid....

yeeesh thats awful

Ok, I have not seen this hole in person, I was speaking as to what I thought was the case. I have seen install pictures, and read the directions, and seen calmini's install pictures. It does not, and did not, to me look like they drilled a hole any bigger than the thru frame shackle mount, because for all I could tell was there was just a weld holding the tube in place, not multiple passes as filler weld. **EDIT**: I questioned your comment on the High steer, but forgot my axle is mocked up moved forward, so no problems with clearance....

So, the Legos are a 7 inch width rim. With an offset nearing an inch. so the centerline on the legos would come to 3.5 inches. Add the offset to that, making it 4.5 inches of backspacing. The Steelies are a 6 inch wide rim. With an offset a little more than an inch. so the centerline on the steelies would be 3 inches. Add the offset to that, making it 4.20 inches of backspacing. Both PROVING my point about them not being 3.75 inches backspacing.

You are wrong. flat out wrong. go look at your stock legos, they are not 3 and 3/4 backspacing. no fawking way. just take a tape measure and eye it, and you will see it is no where near that, but is more like and inch or inch and a quarter more than 3.75

I think the purpose of the hole being that big is so you can have some play as far as your shackle mount goes. I understand the kit is not a complete kit, but it was designed to use toyota pro comp hybrid springs, (56 inches i believe, maybe im wrong) and be sprung over. If you do anything other than that, then i suggest you do not bash crapmini for your problems. With so many combinations of leaf springs out there, you pretty much have to set everything up kinda custom anyway. Even if someone came out with a 3 link kit for ours, it would still have adjustable links so you could dial in your front axle... as far as not having the right hardware, yea, I can understand that being annoying, that does blow. Oh and just so everyone knows, I am not a big fan of calmini, but I am not going to stand here and be a "web fabber" and say their products are garbage either.

I love it when people blame Cal-stinky for their shackles because the purchaser/fabricator does not know how to correctly setup a shackle, getting a correct shackle angle. If setup correctly, no matter what leaf pack you decide on concocting, your CORRECT shackle angle will allow your leaf pack to flex and not hit the frame. People automatically put the blame on them, when they flat out tell you they are doing their SAS differently than Calminis kit was intended for. It was a sprung over truck with toy front leafs. Im sure you reused a waggy pack and went spring under, meaning the placement of the shackle (thru frame) needed to be fudged a little forward or backward.

Stock is no way shape or form 3.75 backspacing. It is more like 5 inch backspacing, maybe 4.75.....

I was not trying to be rude. This is a great place to learn, this is where i learned all of my specific knowledge to pathfinders. But the concept of a manual transmission, and how it works, that little nugget is the same on any vehicle, there are just subtle changes from make to make. This whole thread just red flagged me, and I felt like someone needed to point out the obvious. Now I personally have done two manual swaps on Nissans. And one on a honda. Multiple clutch jobs on various makes and models. So, that being said, the nissan swap was by far the easiest. No computer to deal with, and just basic wiring to get it to crank over again. It can all look factory if done correctly. Do your research, and I will try to answer any questions you may have. Im not sure off hand, but using a transmission from a newer model pathfinder or xterra or frontier (still within the VG engine series) will have a slightly different gear ratio, you might want to get your hands on an FSM from one of those newer models to check against your year and be sure. Might be closer to what you want in the end.

Did you really just ask if a manual transmission had torque converter lock up? If you were serious you might want to consider not doing a manual swap. Or you need to do a TON more research. And all the conversation about who is revving where on the highway and at what speed is useless unless you state tire size and gear ratio... Also, if you have a perfectly fine auto tranny there is absolutely no reason to swap to a manual. The nissan auto is a perfectly fine transmission, and a great one (if kept cool) to have for wheeling.

FYI tek, they are both coil spacers....they both are blocks of steel or aluminum that space out coils....

i bet it was brake fluid. (from the master or slave cylinder leaking) most likely the throwout bearing went, and the slave fork was let go, which let the slave cylinder over extend and let all the fluid out.

So Barry, we would have to make our own shift linkages for that price?!? I mean i know its a moot point, but damn, paying a G to get the kit here maybe more, and then on top of it I have to modify it seems a little off to me....

no not all autos are 4.6, and not all manuals are 4.3 I have seen both in JYs

yea....e locker is an electronic actuated locker....and it has a safety on it that only allows it in 4lo

nope, not easy, gotta drop the cross over pipe and even then its close without dropping the tbars.....

How so? You can still reply to the ad via email.....

you do not, i repeat do not solder your O2 sensors. They come with splice connections

i dont think so, but ill have to go look again at mine....maybe im way wrong here

No, if he is just going to drive it, i would stick with 30s...Didnt some of the XE finders come with 235s anyway? does not matter what wheel size he has. as long as its a stock 15 inch wheel, he can run any tire he wants and it will work.

oh come on that bypass isnt that horrible to get 2!!!!

How i have gotten stubborn pittmans off in the past is put the puller on it, till it has a bunch of tension, and then whack the side of the pittman with a hammer/sledge, usually this type of persuasion lets it fly off...so be careful some of these have come off with a bang, i recommend standing out of the way.....