sammyb33

I think the purpose of the hole being that big is so you can have some play as far as your shackle mount goes. I understand the kit is not a complete kit, but it was designed to use toyota pro comp hybrid springs, (56 inches i believe, maybe im wrong) and be sprung over. If you do anything other than that, then i suggest you do not bash crapmini for your problems. With so many combinations of leaf springs out there, you pretty much have to set everything up kinda custom anyway. Even if someone came out with a 3 link kit for ours, it would still have adjustable links so you could dial in your front axle... as far as not having the right hardware, yea, I can understand that being annoying, that does blow. Oh and just so everyone knows, I am not a big fan of calmini, but I am not going to stand here and be a "web fabber" and say their products are garbage either.

I love it when people blame Cal-stinky for their shackles because the purchaser/fabricator does not know how to correctly setup a shackle, getting a correct shackle angle. If setup correctly, no matter what leaf pack you decide on concocting, your CORRECT shackle angle will allow your leaf pack to flex and not hit the frame. People automatically put the blame on them, when they flat out tell you they are doing their SAS differently than Calminis kit was intended for. It was a sprung over truck with toy front leafs. Im sure you reused a waggy pack and went spring under, meaning the placement of the shackle (thru frame) needed to be fudged a little forward or backward.

Stock is no way shape or form 3.75 backspacing. It is more like 5 inch backspacing, maybe 4.75.....

I was not trying to be rude. This is a great place to learn, this is where i learned all of my specific knowledge to pathfinders. But the concept of a manual transmission, and how it works, that little nugget is the same on any vehicle, there are just subtle changes from make to make. This whole thread just red flagged me, and I felt like someone needed to point out the obvious. Now I personally have done two manual swaps on Nissans. And one on a honda. Multiple clutch jobs on various makes and models. So, that being said, the nissan swap was by far the easiest. No computer to deal with, and just basic wiring to get it to crank over again. It can all look factory if done correctly. Do your research, and I will try to answer any questions you may have. Im not sure off hand, but using a transmission from a newer model pathfinder or xterra or frontier (still within the VG engine series) will have a slightly different gear ratio, you might want to get your hands on an FSM from one of those newer models to check against your year and be sure. Might be closer to what you want in the end.

Did you really just ask if a manual transmission had torque converter lock up? If you were serious you might want to consider not doing a manual swap. Or you need to do a TON more research. And all the conversation about who is revving where on the highway and at what speed is useless unless you state tire size and gear ratio... Also, if you have a perfectly fine auto tranny there is absolutely no reason to swap to a manual. The nissan auto is a perfectly fine transmission, and a great one (if kept cool) to have for wheeling.

FYI tek, they are both coil spacers....they both are blocks of steel or aluminum that space out coils....

i bet it was brake fluid. (from the master or slave cylinder leaking) most likely the throwout bearing went, and the slave fork was let go, which let the slave cylinder over extend and let all the fluid out.

So Barry, we would have to make our own shift linkages for that price?!? I mean i know its a moot point, but damn, paying a G to get the kit here maybe more, and then on top of it I have to modify it seems a little off to me....

no not all autos are 4.6, and not all manuals are 4.3 I have seen both in JYs

yea....e locker is an electronic actuated locker....and it has a safety on it that only allows it in 4lo

nope, not easy, gotta drop the cross over pipe and even then its close without dropping the tbars.....

you do not, i repeat do not solder your O2 sensors. They come with splice connections

i dont think so, but ill have to go look again at mine....maybe im way wrong here

No, if he is just going to drive it, i would stick with 30s...Didnt some of the XE finders come with 235s anyway? does not matter what wheel size he has. as long as its a stock 15 inch wheel, he can run any tire he wants and it will work.

oh come on that bypass isnt that horrible to get 2!!!!

How i have gotten stubborn pittmans off in the past is put the puller on it, till it has a bunch of tension, and then whack the side of the pittman with a hammer/sledge, usually this type of persuasion lets it fly off...so be careful some of these have come off with a bang, i recommend standing out of the way.....

do you have a full tank of gas?

they didnt have auto locking hubs....they had drive slugs...much stronger than warns...but your front axle will be effectively "locked in" all the time

Yep. Sudden stalls from otherwise normal "back to idle" situations, first place to look, IACV. And especially since you have an idle problem as well......

IACV check and clean it...

the inhibitor switch kills the ignition circuit, you wont hear any clicking, you will hear nothing. Im betting its shorting out somewhere, or the starter is bad

i just use the fluid it is supposed to be sealing in/out. always slides right in with that....

nope. no drooling for me. I cant stand red interior. blue is OK, but still sucks. give me gray anyday

no only camber is adjusted using shims. toe is adjusted with rod ends.

the same rear end. the locker will work for u too