Dowser

Evening all. I was perusing the forums lately and I was looking at Kiwipete's members ride thread when I came across a photo that got my wheels spinning a little. It was this picture here. Now it could be absolutely nothing but it was still an idea that popped in my head so I thought I'd at least mention it. My thoughts are, people who run the Petrol Pathy's have the standard air filters and some switch to The Cone style for a little more Air flow to improve things a little. I thought about this but I also Like Deep Water so that was not going to happen for me. I figured I would just get a Snorkel, close out the Airbox and call it good but when I saw the diesel air filter it got me thinking perhaps you could Jimmy Rig a set up that would cover the Cone style filter that has More surface area then the standard air filter and still hook up a snorkel if you wanted to. Now obviously I know you wouldn't be getting maximum air flow and what not since you would be closing it inside a case but you'd get more air flow since its more surface area for air to pass. Perhaps the Diesel Air Filter case is near the same size? Perhaps this is a completely useless idea? I don't know the dimensions of either the Box or the cone filters so I can only speculate that this could work. I'm also aware the potential gains would be significantly less without having the cone exposed but hey may still offer a bit for those of us wanting a snorkel and better air flow. I also am aware that the way its set up in a Diesel would obviously not work. Im not suggesting that a diesels would be some miraculous match up, I'm getting to the idea that perhaps a Cylindrical canister could be fashioned. Thoughts? Other then how much of an idiot I may be sounding like.

I hate to say it but when I read this I was thinking Timing Belt. I sure hope its not it man. Especially after you just finished saying you spent a crap load of cash on it. On a more selfish side, if it is the timing belt and you engine is a large paper weight, and you decide you done spending money on it, I'd like to let ya know I'm ALL OVER THAT SNORKEL if you part it out.

Thank you Precise. And a minor note adding to what Precise mentioned. This is pretty straight forward but some of you may not think of it and cause yourself a headache. If your going to blow some compressed air thru it, try and remember its just washer hose and not rated for HIGH psi. Don't crank up your compressor to 120 psi and Open it up with a Blow gun. If there is a clog and you do that you could quite possibly blow thru the hose and end up having to replace it. Start off with just some low pressure. All you want to do is test if its clogged and if its not, then you're going to feel low pressure come out the other side.

The Rear Wiper Squirter comes from the reservoir up in the front. there are 2 lines coming off it and 2 separate Washer Pumps. It could be you rear washer pump is not working. You can test it by taking off your Reservoir bottle, (3 bolts) disconnecting the connectors to Both pumps, then take 2 wires and connect them direct with the battery. And Don't forget to remember which hose came from which pump so your not hooking them back up backwards. Both of my Pumps were shot, and at the Dealer cost in Canada it was $56.00 CAD each. I tried the Wreckers first and picked up 2 more. Those I just pocketed but turned out that only 1 worked anyway. I checked with Alkorahil in the Services section and he can get you them for $31.00 USD + shipping. Don't bother with picking up a universal no name brand cause it doesn't match up properly and it has to be Jimmy Rigged. Tried that as well. If its not the pump then your line is clogged somewhere and your gonna have to do some searching. I'd start at the rear Nozzle. *Edit* Also forgot to mention, that if you have power to the Pump you should be able to hear it running. Noisy little buggers. Probably easier to test it from just listening then taking it off and what not but hey, maybe its the Connector too so if you hear nothing take it apart and test it to battery to verify its not your connection or wiring related.

Enough has been stated already. Your information has been provided by 87pathy as well as others. As stated from the moderators on this forums, which are given the responsibility not just because they like to talk, but because they've been dedicated to Pathfinders and this forum a long time, and because they happen to know a thing or 2 about our vehicles. Dedicated members here that know a tremendous amount about our vehicles are all telling you to use the search function here on the forums and to learn it's uses well. If its not working for you then you're either not using it correctly or are not using the right type of search criteria. Perhaps you weren't able to find anything on a "Positive Locker" since no one really uses that specific term. Try many different variations and 9 time out of 10 come up with very valuable information. Yes its time consuming, and yes it would be easier to just ask us all to answer you, but for many of us, we're tired of answering the same questions over and over again. If you had any idea how many time I've seen the topics asking questions about "What size tire can I fit" and so on. And reviewing your topics that you've posted here since you became a member here in April, 2 of them had been covered many times before,(Rust Holes in Floor, and Rear Lift gate Hydraulics) And when doing your searches it really makes no difference if the post was from 2004 or not. The information is still Valid and is not suddenly going to become outdated just because the Post is old. You're driving around in a 1993 vehicle, how current do you need the posts to be? There really is no need to continue on this thread since the topic question has been answered. But I just felt somewhat obligated to say something since this is a good community and many people have better things to do then answer questions that are constantly asked here over and over again when all the person would have to do is take the less lazy approach and use the search function.

I retract this statement.

And one of my most used air tools is a 1/4" ratchet. The smallest one you can find. They only put out about 15-20ft pounds and are so compact you can get to a lot of areas. Since the ft/lb rating is so low its great for taking off trim screws/bolts without worrying about breaking them off or stripping them while putting them back on. And as said, either buy a inline oiler for your tools, or oil them before and after you use them if your not going to be using them often. Air Impacts are a life saver. A 3/8 or 1/2 are both very handy and remember they are primarily used to taking things OFF.... not to be used to put on. Although if you turn the Air setting of your impact down to its lowest setting and are fairly careful you wont have to deal with stripping and breaking off fasteners. Regardless what you do, make sue when your done to check everything is tight enough. And although everything has a torque spec, in reality, use your common sense on what your working on and make sure things are torqued appropriately and don't rely on just zipping it at full power with the Impact for 3 seconds and call it good.

I'm interested in Knowing more specifics as well. Be a great addition to our Rigs.

Thats what I was thinking too Precise. Even if its a larger mesh filter and the oil is hot, its still provides a block point. I personally was planning on Rigging up a Bypass filter that takes maybe about only 20% of the total flow at a time to reduce restriction in the system. Might definitely be something to look into. I was planning on running the same kind of thing for my Engine Oil as well with a much finer Filter to get rid of more contaminates to get more miles out of a Oil change as well. And about your illumination not being the same, for the time being you could always have them on at half level so they match until you get around to it hahaha.

hahah Typo... Ment $100.00 nice.

Wow. Glad this has happened to others. I went to pick my buddy up from the bus station after not seeing him for like 6 years. I got out, Left it running, gave him a hug, and he opened up the passenger door and before he got in I said hey man, lets just throw your bag in the back. He said alright, he shut his door and click. All the doors locked. So there we sit. Vehicle running, Only key I own. Cell phone sitting in the ash try. Used a Pay Phone to call CAA to come unlock my freaking door. 45 minutes I waited there looking like I've never been able to get my @!*% together to my buddy from years past. haha. Thanks for the link. hope it works.

I stand corrected then. Wonder why they told me that then. Perhaps they were not available at that time or something. I just remember getting off the phone thinking what a load of crap. Glad to see they are available now. but $100 bucks shipped is a pretty expensive bracket if you ask me.

haha Man. this is bringing back some memories. I lived North of Grande Prairie in a little back woods place called Fairview for just under 3 years but saw 3 full winters there. Up there its nothing but open fields with no trees for miles and miles. They do a lot of farming for Canola up there and you can see in any direction you want for 15-20 miles without obstruction of any sort. It got cold up there man. I mean REALLY REALLY freaking cold. No trees or building to block that damn Wind either so when the wind picked up which was almost constant, the windchill was just freaking brutal. Lots of days I would wake up in the morning, look at the outdoor thermo and look for the little red line only to find that all the liquid is still at the bottom of my -40 cel thermometer. I think while I was there we had a few days that were -60 with wind chill and I told my wife that on the coldest day I thought we would ever have I would run around the trailer in nothing but a pair of boxers and some sorel's. this was stupid of me for many many reasons but the main 3 were, 1) I ended up having to do the run 5 times cause I started at -52 thinking it wouldn't get colder then that. 2) The snow was very VERY deep around the trailer with only a small walking path to the driveway where the cars were parked. The rest was about 4 and a half feet of snow that really REALLY didnt feel nice with just sorels and boxers on, especially when I fell over, or when i lost a boot. and 3) Because at those temperatures, frostbite strikes FAST.... really Fast on the TENDER parts. At any rate... where am i going with this? Oh yes. I remember. Many many a cold start for me man. I had tons of trouble with my block heater on my 92. I know the engines aren't the same but I think the placement of the stock installed Block heater is in the same spot. Mine was near the manifold and from what i remember you had to take the manifold studs off to get access to it. I could be wrong on this but i think that's what i remember being told at the time. My cord for it got melted on my exhaust so was not working. I ended up doing something else instead and chose a inline rad hose heater. It had a couple of benefits. Not only did it warm the block but you also had a heater FAR faster since the rad was already a little warm. Second I had a manual so I ended up putting a patch type heater on the base of the tranny box to warm the tranny oil. Otherwise I could of waited 3 hours and the tranny oil would still be a hard lump of cold oil. In fact while I went to school there one of our demos was to go outside to where an axle was sitting for a few weeks and take off the diff cover. We brought out a oil bucket to catch the gear oil and the instructor laughed saying, "You wont need that boys." Sure enough take the cover off and not a drop of oil. It was like Molasses. Run your vehicle like that everyday for a few miles while you wait for the oil to heat up and talk about premature wear. As for the Auto Tranny's and Power steering issues, I put a Battery Blanket on the battery, and on the Power steering Reserviour and that helped with not making your Power steering pump scream bloody murder in the morning. The auto tranny though I never had to deal with but I would think as soon as you start the ignition that oil is moving hot or cold so I would personally do something if it were me. Good luck man and thanks for the flood of memories. It was +4 cel here today and I went outside with a T-shirt for a while to say thanks that I'm not in that Sh!t hole anymore. Good luck man. All the best.

I'm positive this has been covered before on here... If I recall correctly there was a HUGE list of all the different options available that was posted and the outcome back then was that it was all over the place then too. It seemed you could have individual options added on your personal preference. I'll see if I can dig up that OLD OLD post. but Im not sure how lucky I'll be. If theres someone out there more skilled with search then I, Has it bookmarked, or has more time to browse for it then me which is pretty much everyone on here please link it.

YA Calmini makes one but from what I understand you can't buy it on its own. You need to buy their whole suspension kit to get it.... Least thats what they told me about 3 years ago when I called.

I just happen to finish reading these so here ya go. both are very informative. Tranny Cooler. Precise's Tranny Guage. Hope that helps.

Bookmarked and Bookmarked. Nice job you guys. I somehow missed that whole thread on which tranny cooler to buy that was posted with all that nice info. Nice clean work both of you.

Here's someones write up as well which basically shows step by step what needs to happen. Good luck. and Search could have found this. Lifter Swap.

And here's a Picture for those that need to visualize it. This is taken from an Old thread that 88 had up ages ago i think. Hope that helps as well.

I know what case your refering too. The case that the Crank seal fits in. The waterpump mates with it just above it. To get that out is a bit of a bugger since its pretty much the same as doing a timing belt job. and if you did the Cam and crank seals already then you were basically almost done. If your positive that its the case that got a crack in it then It really shouldn't be too hard to swap out. There's a ton of threads on here already about doing the timing belt job which is basically 3/4 of what you need to do anyway so I'm not going to get into that. I think there's even a sticky about it posted up. I had a similar problem once before and it ended up just being the NEW crank seal that I put in. I had a small bur on my Crank that cut the lip of the seal as I was installing it. It ended up spewing Oil pretty significantly so I had to tear it all down, use some emery cloth on the bur for a while to shave it smooth enough to get another seal on without it cutting then next one. I was pretty pissed off by the time i was done but if i could do it, anyone could. edit* OH man. I didn't realize you would have to drop the oil pan to get that out of there. Boy... that sounds like a nightmare job now. Anyway to just loosen everything up enough to slip a new gasket behind without having to tear everything down? like parts hanging giving you about a centimeter to slide one up? I don't know the specifics at all about having to drop an oil pan since its never been an issue for me, so keep that in mind in case that's a stupid idea. Good luck man.

Your right, what I wrote didn't make very much sense since the Compressor is a sealed unit. I should have been more specific in this sentence. What i was trying to get across was that i would rather have my AC compressor in the Alternator spot since all the Grime, Goop and mud would effect it far less then the alternator. Thanks for bringing that to light. Sometimes I don't think before I type when I'm in a hurry. I doubt you would have to change a compressor after every wheeling trip. I doubt you would have to change one at all unless it malfunctions due to issues not having anything to do with going thru a mud hole. As for finding the thread that talked about it.... I've been looking. I've found a couple that refer to it. But none of them are specific like the one I was talking about with the images. Keep in mind that as mentioned on some of these other topics you need to have something in the place of the old alternator spot since the belt runs other things like the water pump. here's the only semi descriptive thread I've found so far. Relocation topic Upon further searching I'm wondering if the images I remember were for a bracket designed to fit a Maxima/Quest Alty in the Stock Alty position without having to modify the Alty's. bracket modification for stock location. Hmmmmm Either that or I saw it on another forums cause I cant seem to locate it. I thought for sure I would have had something like that bookmarked. Perhaps someone else will have more luck then I. Also doing this search has brought something else into the light that i didnt think of. Instead of making a bracket to fit an ordinary pathfinder Alty to be used in the AC position, we should be thinking about making a bracket for a Maxima/Quest alty to fit I'm thinking since everyones trying to get rid of the low amp Alty's we came with. Just athought. And finally... I'd like to add at this time, That Simon is a champ for having to reply the same basic answer about mud being the primary destroyer of alternators in MANY MANY posts over a LARGE amount of time. I think I must have glanced at about a dozen different topics that hes had to mention it. His ability to not tell people they are morons and to use the search function is uncanny! Congratulations Simon.

Ya I mentioned the Alty Relocation Bracket in the New Parts Thread, and its never really been about water crossings, its always been big soupy mud holes. And I love mud holes. I've sprayed water in the all manner of crap in the alty to try and clean it out after a pretty messy trip. Although I'll admit that peeing in it didnt work as well as I had hoped. I've always wanted to attempt a relocation bracket and theres even a GREAT write up on the forums for one with pictured even from someone doing it. I believe its been done for a R50 as well. I just have never really had the tools at my disposal to make little useful things. I think this is one of those things man that if you fit it right, get it measured out, you could make a ton of these so easily and people would buy them. I know I sure would. Especially if you come up with the AC relocation bracket to the Alty position as well since I'm one of those softies that likes AC in the Hot Humid Southern Ontario Summers. haha. But regardless, I'd way rather have my AC compressor get clogged with sh!t and stop working then my Alty. Even though an AC compressor is more expensive then an alty, I can live without AC. Hard to get your Junk home without a Working Alty and replacing on the Trail after going thru a bunch of mud isn't the most pleasant of experiences.

- I'm With B on making a Panhard drop down Bracket available. That has to be easy and cheap to make for those of us who would rather just buy it then make it. - I've also been contemplating Sliders just recently and I was trying to think of what would look best as well as function best for a WD21. I came up with 2 basic looks that I liked personally. 1) Flat Bar style alone with with fronts and rear points angled up from the bottom a few inches in from the end so your don't gouge and get hung up on rocks. Not to a point or anything, but so that its smaller at least and not just a boxy style end. 2) I started thinking the above version would not protect your doors at all from rocks and it would be nice to have a bit of Tube off the bar just like the shrockworks style. You could easily mass produce both style simple enough by starting out making the Bar ones by themselves. Add tube as the Order deems necessary. And one last thing, Not everyone wants a Weld on Version. Perhaps having the option for bolt on and Weld on would make a huge difference too. And finally, no matter which way you go about this, make it available for Body Lifted Pathy's man. Stock, 2" and 3" are obviously most common as you know already. If hes willing to make them at a reasonable price, and powder coat them, I'll buy em. -The headers would be nice touch if they for sure can compete with the Quality and price that Thorely's seems to be having. Obviously there's people who pick up the pace setters since they are cheaper and I don't have either so I cant comment on the real difference other then what I've read from all the different forums. And you already know how that whole conversation goes so if it can do a bit better on the price side of things then Thorely's, keep up with the quality and coatings of Thorely, and do away with some of the ****** y-pipe issues that many have complained about with Thorely's I'm betting many people would pick them up. Here's a last idea as well. I've read many places that the crossover pipe that connects to the y-pipe hangs down fairly low on the Thorely's. Perhaps you guys can work it out so that it can be tucked a bit higher up if clearance allows. I'm in the market for headers as soon as my Bodylift gets installed. Wife gave me the OK to fix the manifold leak since she's worried about having our kids in the car with a manifold leak hahaha Bless her soul. I wont argue, I just agreed so I could pave the way. -A SWEET option would also be a Alternator Relocation Bracket to swap it into the AC position. I've been thru 4 stock alternators and I can't even imagine how pissed I'd be if I went thru the trouble of putting in a Maxima or Quest alty, or if I dished out the 400 bucks for the Mean Green only to have it go on me. That said, perhaps a Bracket to Stick your AC in the Alty spot too for those that still love luxury. Have to do some plumbing on your own but hey, be nice to have. -One last request. Skid Plates man. We haven't had any available since Runnerman was making them. be nice to see some for purchase again. None available for the WD21 that I've found. I think half the price is shooting for the impossible personally. Who's going to want to make stuff for a market that isn't anywhere near the amount of production as other brands of vehicles out there, if the only customers are saying your all too expensive and we wont buy it. I'd settle for cheaper and more reasonable. I understand that if you make 1000 Rock sliders you can make them for cheaper then 10 so that's obviously a lot to do with it. Whats available currently is much to expensive in my thoughts though.

Pfffft. Cry Baby.

Lately I wish I was Born in Russia.