Oliver

Hey! That was your driving pal. And I am still pissed. Thought I had to work this morning (like every Friday) so I got up at 5:45 to catch my plane from PDX and it turns out that my jackass boss only scheduled six people to work and didn't inform everyone. I was not on the list. So I could still be at home with my family right now but instead I am in sh!thole Cheney. Happy Thanksgiving indeed. pssd

Ummmmm.......

Oohhh, I might just have to call in to work...very tempting. I'll call you on Saturday after 4 with a decision. Have a good turkey day.

Wow, now those are some turkey breasts. Happy Gobbler Day to all

Did anyone else completely loose track of their active threads? Or am I just loosing my mind. I know there were several things I was following but now I can't remember them... :confused: Oh well, looks like I've got some work to do

Yes! My life is complete. God how sad is that? I need to get out more. Glad we're up and running.

I just had a coniption! :idea: Couldn't we just remove that resonator box thing and leave it like that? The stock elbow would be sucking air in directly from the fender area and you wouldn't need to add the additional piping... Whaddya think?

Very back of the cargo area inside a tool box buried under lots of other crap..... -thnkboutit- But I would never do that

Gotcha. That clears it up. How much improvement have you noticed after the change? I'm excited to try this one. Mostly because its CHEAP!!

If you're running new fogs you probably want to wire a relay into that circut. You'll get better light output and you won't risk burning up the switch. I know that my buddy put fogs in his Dakota and he has to turn them off after about 20 minutes because we can smell the switch getting hotter and hotter. Its easy to do and plenty of electrical smartys on here to help.

I don't think its bad at all. Its more of a classic style. I like square vehicles (hence my Volvo habit) However there is a good way to make it better. Replace the front of the Pathy with the HB setup: markers, grill and headlight buckets. Throw on some E-code lights and H4 bulbs and you've got outstanding lighting. This is a better look, IMHO

And your headlights must be on to use them.

So basically you replaced the oem piping that runs forward and down with a piece to run backwards into the fender. Cool. Though it seems to me that you might have some problems with your tire splashing water up into the fender and the pipe sucking it in. Is that going to be a problem? BTW If you have no problems I think I might do this mod too. Snorkels can come later.

I dunno. I would drive the Volvo. Call me crazy.....but I like Volvos -bounce-

OK I'll ask about that deal next time I call.

If you go the POR-15 route don't remove the lid from the can. Instead punch 2 small holes (1/8") on opposite sides of the lid. This will allow you to pour the paint from the can and then you can seal it up with a couple sheet metal screws. Easier to re-open later on too. I did this on my old Volvo about 3 years ago and the paint is still liquid inside. Also, be sure not to scrape all the rust off the truck. POR-15 needs surface rust to bond and create a hardened finish. Just scrape the loose material off and give it a wash with "Marine Clean" before you paint over it.

I'm sure we could strike up a deal of some kind. Are they 5000s? Altons wants $60 for the alignment and Firestone wants $70. Schwab is the cheapest at $48 that is if I put the needed parts on first. Auto Zone carries poly bushings for about $20 for a full set. Schwab wanted $25 for one! I think I'll pick some up from AZ when I get my belts today.

Ok will do. Will those coils have any issues with everything else still being stock? Jd thanks for the linky. Very helpful

There it is.

Yeah, well I'm am idiot so what do you expect?

I went to get my alignment done today at Les Schwab (usually I avoid them but NM) Turns out I can't get it done because.... 1. Pass side outer tie rod end is wobbly and failing I guess and 2. The pass side "strut rod bushing" is failing Since this work needs to be done would I be better off grabbing some of those NAPA Chassis parts I read about on nissnperformancemag.com's write up or getting the stock pieces? And secondly, the dude recommended a poly bushing to replace the worn one (I think one but probably both sides). Is this worthwhile for $25 a pop? They want to charge me $330 for all the work and the alignment which is something I was not expecting. :contract:

UPDATE!!! SO I got the batt and charging system checked. ANd they were ok. Put some belt tensioner on there and it seems to have helped. Last night I decided to get a little mud on a trail nearby. as I'm going down the bumpies I notice that my headlights are severly diming and brightening over and over. Needless to say I turned around and hightailed it home. Once on the smooth pavement no problems. This mean that I have a loose connection probably or a bad alternator?

/\ /\ /\ And how

Exactly. I don't know how comfortable I would be entrusting my $60K (?) Lexus to a computer to steer into a tight parking spot. Hell, I probably wouldn't park it somewhere that required computer guidance in the first place. I'll opt for the back 40 and walk a bit, thank you very much.

how 'bout a few pics of the collection for interested shoppers?