Oliver

I've seen way too many cat threads on here. I think it's time for the dogs to get their well-deserved recognition. This is Mack. He's a smooth coat German wire-haired pointer. His hobbies include barking, sleeping, farting, barking some more, eating law cigars and barking. His love interest is a white five pound "purse dog" next door whom he saved from being eaten by the local coyotes. And he is a bird dog. He had a bit of a baptism by fire last year on a pheasant hunt. "Whew! Somebody change that Glade Plug-In"

MWS PM sent

I've got a full stock set off my 95 that I'll give to a loving home. I have no idea what shipping will be though, since they'd need a pretty large box. Mud flaps too, BTW. I'm in 99004 if you want to figure it out. Probably less than 10lbs...

Hmm, I like it. But someday I want to switch to the HB front end and it uses different corners. Now if there are some HB clear corners we may be in business

You sound like you speak from experience...

I have the same problem in cold weather with my 95. I remedied it with a magnetic block heater on the oil pan. Before I had the heater I got nothing when trying to start but now she fires right up (that is after several hours with the heater on, like overnight)

Very cool. Have you considered putting the plans up on here??

Ouch, sorry to see that. Glad everyone's unharmed. Poor Pathy. :sniff:

I hope this is one of those "...but you should see the other guy" situations. Sorry about the rig. Hope its fixable. If not I think we should all have a toast to the departed. -alcohol-

Did anyone else completely loose track of their active threads? Or am I just loosing my mind. I know there were several things I was following but now I can't remember them... :confused: Oh well, looks like I've got some work to do

Yes! My life is complete. God how sad is that? I need to get out more. Glad we're up and running.

I just had a coniption! :idea: Couldn't we just remove that resonator box thing and leave it like that? The stock elbow would be sucking air in directly from the fender area and you wouldn't need to add the additional piping... Whaddya think?

Very back of the cargo area inside a tool box buried under lots of other crap..... -thnkboutit- But I would never do that

Gotcha. That clears it up. How much improvement have you noticed after the change? I'm excited to try this one. Mostly because its CHEAP!!

If you're running new fogs you probably want to wire a relay into that circut. You'll get better light output and you won't risk burning up the switch. I know that my buddy put fogs in his Dakota and he has to turn them off after about 20 minutes because we can smell the switch getting hotter and hotter. Its easy to do and plenty of electrical smartys on here to help.

I don't think its bad at all. Its more of a classic style. I like square vehicles (hence my Volvo habit) However there is a good way to make it better. Replace the front of the Pathy with the HB setup: markers, grill and headlight buckets. Throw on some E-code lights and H4 bulbs and you've got outstanding lighting. This is a better look, IMHO

And your headlights must be on to use them.

So basically you replaced the oem piping that runs forward and down with a piece to run backwards into the fender. Cool. Though it seems to me that you might have some problems with your tire splashing water up into the fender and the pipe sucking it in. Is that going to be a problem? BTW If you have no problems I think I might do this mod too. Snorkels can come later.

I dunno. I would drive the Volvo. Call me crazy.....but I like Volvos -bounce-

OK I'll ask about that deal next time I call.

If you go the POR-15 route don't remove the lid from the can. Instead punch 2 small holes (1/8") on opposite sides of the lid. This will allow you to pour the paint from the can and then you can seal it up with a couple sheet metal screws. Easier to re-open later on too. I did this on my old Volvo about 3 years ago and the paint is still liquid inside. Also, be sure not to scrape all the rust off the truck. POR-15 needs surface rust to bond and create a hardened finish. Just scrape the loose material off and give it a wash with "Marine Clean" before you paint over it.

I'm sure we could strike up a deal of some kind. Are they 5000s? Altons wants $60 for the alignment and Firestone wants $70. Schwab is the cheapest at $48 that is if I put the needed parts on first. Auto Zone carries poly bushings for about $20 for a full set. Schwab wanted $25 for one! I think I'll pick some up from AZ when I get my belts today.

Ok will do. Will those coils have any issues with everything else still being stock? Jd thanks for the linky. Very helpful

There it is.

I went to get my alignment done today at Les Schwab (usually I avoid them but NM) Turns out I can't get it done because.... 1. Pass side outer tie rod end is wobbly and failing I guess and 2. The pass side "strut rod bushing" is failing Since this work needs to be done would I be better off grabbing some of those NAPA Chassis parts I read about on nissnperformancemag.com's write up or getting the stock pieces? And secondly, the dude recommended a poly bushing to replace the worn one (I think one but probably both sides). Is this worthwhile for $25 a pop? They want to charge me $330 for all the work and the alignment which is something I was not expecting. :contract: