Filthy Luker

It's a super complicated process so pay attention: 1. Drain dino fluids. 2. Fill with new synthetic fluids. 3. Enjoy.

DO A TUNEUP, INSTALL NICE A NICE 2.25-2.5" CATBACK EXHAUST, THINK ABOUT HI PERFORMANCE INTAKE... IF ALL ELSE FAILS GET A ROLLED/TOTALLED R50 WITH THE 3.5L MOTOR AND PROFIT. YOU'RE WELCOME

9.8 m/s squared because it's JDM and has authentic metric JDM gauge set.

Those listed above are not winter tires. Try Bridgestone Winter Duelers or Blizzaks, or the Nokian Hakkapeliitta SUV. There aren't better winter tires period.

This one is ugly as a sin as well but I wouldn't mind be seen in it: LOL... i never post or check POHO so I hope this was posted there... sly

LP is a short form for Lee & Phil Performance... http://www.lpperformance.com I have their centerlink and my own custom gusseted (similar to theirs) idler and pitman arms... I have to say the setup is top notch.

I replaced all 6 on the front driver's wheel at Nissan about two weeks ago. Including parts (6 studs/6 lugs), labour and taxes it was $100CDN at my friendly Nissan dealer.

Fair enough. I just turned them off... ohh so much better.

Why not just suggest that people specify the vehicle info in their original post of the thread? Large sigs listing goofy things like S-TYPE cupholders just clutter up the board and make it hard to read especially if it's in every post. In worst case scenario, a simple PM to the original poster to remind him to be descriptive should be OK. At least nobody here lists what vehicles they used to own, or will (maype) purchase in their sigs as on so many other boards I see. How about puting limit on how lines and size of pics in the sigs. I find that sometimes browsing this board I have hard time differentiating where the post ends and sig begins. For example (and I mean no offense to anyone here) but SC88s and Vengful's replies (they are right one after another) in this particular thread amount to whole three lines of text yet take up more than one page and I have to scroll to see them in their entirety.

OFF ROAD RICE POLICE sly

I have dino oils all around but i change them very often. I drain the AT pan every other oil change and fill it up (it's 1/2 capacity or so), and I change the diff/t-case fluids about 4 times a year. BTW.. I change my engine oil every one to two thousand miles depending on how much I wheel. Running synthetic with those fluid change intervals would be insane.

OK.. quick update. I went to PartsSource which is a parts chain that belongs to Crappy Tire here in bitter and cold Canada. I had them order me a 1979 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 MC... It was $35 CDN + $10 CDN core charge for a total of $45. It will arrive tomorrow. I also placed a call to my Nissan dealer and they said that with my badass hardcore offroading guy discount (he does all he can on parts for us) the Nissan MC would be $320. Yea right... if you add 15% tax we have to pay on top of everything here that's savings of 9 two-fours of beer.

Yep.. I myself have witnessed a Jeep customer at an off road shop debate for TWO GODDAMN HOURS between the four different types of fender flares he could have gotten for his truck. The salesman was so so pissed off he actually told him that it doesn't matter as it's not like anyone would believe that the Jeep is being taken off road. sly

It's true though, what's next spray on mud and fake winches? try http://national4wd.com/ though...

I have an SE but no 'spoiler'...

OFF ROAD RICE POLICE

Google is a wonderful thing. sly Time: 1-3 hours Materials: Warm sunny day Tarp Large plastic garbage bag Undiluted Ammonia Windex (a glass cleaner) Paper towels Fine steel wool Razor blades Tools: Slotted Screwdrivers Phillips Screwdrivers Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag. Step 1: To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once. NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone. Step 2: First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc. Step 3: Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass. Step 4: Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate. Step 5: Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel. Step 6: When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel. Step 7: Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool. Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels. Removing tint from side windows Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces. Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels. Inspect for missed glue (its clear and hard to see)

14 gauge.. that's about 1/16" thickness no? That's thinner than what the stock plates on my Pathy are, but I've already managed to mingle them. Perhaps you may want to consider adding some more material to make it stronger, especially since it's only a flat piece without any bends in the middle.

Yep that's the plan, pics & writeup when complete. From N4W I got some info already and I have my mechanic sourcing the part right now: http://nissan4wheelers.com/groupee/forums/...901#67110558901 http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

I have an identical issue... and it gets worse as it gets colder. I bled my brakes before the weekend and i had air in one of the front lines. It was fine for two days and it got crappy again. It may be the master cylinder so I am going to use this opportunity to upgrade to the GM master which is about 1/10th the cost of Nissan part (I am serious) and it's quite a bit more powerful.

White...ish..?

Maybe just a loose connection. Check battery, ground, starter wires. Wiggle stuff around the engine bay. also: voila sly

LFMAO... my buddies and I just call the stock Nissan steelie wheels "mud collectors".

I bet it would be almost identical to this writeup: http://www.nissan4wheelers.com/howtos/arti...sparkplugs.html

If you're gonna keep youre H233B in the rear, then you pretty much have to go either with the Early Bronco or Jeep Waggy D44. If you're gonna ditch the rear axle, you can go with a high pinion D44 and Ford 9" off a Ford F150 or something. Then gears, lockers etc are cheap. You can mount things either way BTW... Just because the axle rode on leafs doesn't mean you need to keep it on them. You can do coilovers, airbags, coils.. whatever. Anything can be done with the right amount of dough.... Rockwells are big heavy and require huge tires to give you clearance under diffs. Also don't they start with 6-7:1 gear ratios?