Filthy Luker

Usually such piggy back computers are worthwhile only when performing major mods with the computer not being capable of of figuring out what to do. Also blindly using this box without proper (dyno) tuning and more gauges (EGR/AFR) to tell you what your engine is doing is not a good idea. All this is is a basic box that intercepts and modifies reading from the oxygen sensor to trick the computer into either supplying more fuel or less. Also Precise... what in the god's name are you trying to say?

Legos have an offset of +25 and it's a 15x7" wheel. That's about 4.65" of backspacing.

WWooooooWWWWoooooWWWWwwwooOOOOOwwwww :Magic:

sly

You can check out most of the specs here: http://www.nissannews.com I'd assume it would be easier to fit a supercharger rather than a turbo due to room restrictions. Anything can be done for the right amount of money.

As long as it's legal in where you live by all means go for it. Backpressure is one thing, but exhaust velocity is something else. You don't want the first one, you want the second. You achieve second by having a properly sized exhaust piping and routing. EDIT: found a decent article on exhaust theory here.... http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/exhaustdesign/index.html

It means you got LSD. Basically if you wanna lock 'er up you gotta look at ARB or exchanging the carrier for an open diff before you plug in something cheaper. Stock LSD carried me through a lot of stuff though.. It think it's a good unit, I made a lot of people think I have a locker. Including yesterday when I ran circles around a Rubicon on trail.

I think most Nissan dealers should be able to help you with that. It's a Nismo/Hitachi part# 38100-07J71

So you have an R/C200 or H233?.

Go solid or go home.

That's only like $100 in parts at the most and 3 hours of goofing around in there to fix it. No big deal. If you had a spotter you should slap him. I still have you beat though, as last year my truck caught on fire after that trail. -bounce- It did take a considerable effort on my part however.

Go back to the shop and have them fix it. They should stand by their work.

So... you could say you immobilized him real good?

Why don't you just install a fuel pump kill switch?

1. Rack Attack is a 100% Canadian company. It started in Toronto and now it's got locations in US. 2. $700 means you wanted a rail system with track install. That's the most expensive type of rack install there is. You can easily get away with spending $150-300 for the Thule 400 system used (clamps around the door wells and retails for under $400 all complete). 3. I hear the "BUT I CAN GET IT FOR HALF THE COST IN US" thing all the time. It all boils down to the fact that in Canada you can't purchase stuff directly from Thule (or Yakima) but from a Canadian distributor that's located in Quebec (Sport Dinaco). So retailers here have to pay quite a bit of premium. Distributor has to pay shipping, duty, brokerage fees, whatever, then they have to add their markup then they ship it to retailers (such as Rack Attack) that have to pay for shipping and add their markup. Yes it's expensive I know... on top of that the prices are continuing to raise with the price of steel and gas. Have you ever had anything large and heavy shipped from the States? I had items shipped to me and it actually comes to be almost twice the US Dollar amount at my door. Shipping, duty, brokerage fees, taxes all add up to insane amounts. The difference is that it's all included in the sticker price in Canada. Fun Fact: One of Rack Attack Vancouver's locations (there are 2) in it's former life used to house a massive weed growth operation.

That looks very low indeed especially with a 3" BL. Maybe reindex your t-bars or something. How far away are the A-arms from the bumpstops? As to the electrical? Hmm... just check your battery and ground connections and use some WD-40 or ignition dry-n-go on the ignition cables. Also check your starter wiring.. maybe something came loose during the romping around. Also dude.... it wasn't that deep in there... had there been a lot of water, I'd be there on the trail with you guys -bounce- leading into the water crossings. I'll be there in April when the water levels are 2 feet higher. sly

The main difference between factory and aftermarket racks is that factory racks are designed to look pretty and "aerodynamic" and such with next to no thought put into just how sturdy and functional they have to be. As to plastic end pieces? The entire rack is only as strong as it's weakest component. I have no issues STANDING on a loaded Thule rack and I am at 180lbs or so.

Get the Thule 400 system off eBay.. doesn't matter what vehicle it was on, then just get the fit kit (the vehicle specific part) from Thule or it's retailer. You can go onto the Thule website and download instructions for every product that they make in PDF format, including the vehicle specific fit kits to show you how it goes on a given application. WD21 instructions: http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/instructio...06010,%2060.pdf

Which Rack Attack did you call? I work in the ones in Toronto or Mississauga every once in a while. As a greedy capitalist lunatic let me offer you some good advice. Don't use sheet metal screws. Use a proper rivnut or plusnut or whatever you can get at your local hardware stores. Just google the two names I just mentioned to see what it its. You should also get a proper tool for installing them. For example I got the said tool with a collection of those threaded inserts for $30 at my local Princess Auto location. You don't have to drop the headliner but make sure you use silicone and paint to properly touch up the holes you will drill out. Use a stopper on your drill bit unless you like to see holes in your headliner. Use a tapping lube. Factory/dealer racks suck big time if you have to actually use them to carry stuff. Thule kicks butt and you don't have to drill any holes to install it.

So like... when you get off the trail... you have to fold it up all dirty and muddy and then unfold it at home, wash it... dry it out alongside your dirty undies and then fold it up again until next time you need it? Actually there are magnetic sheets that people attach to the sides of their trucks... i've only seen GM H2 (quasi-hummers) with them, go figure

Hopefully I'll be installing electric fans this winter. From what I hear they free up a fair bit of engine power. The rest is so true... good tuneup and high tire pressures are the key.

I tried to put on the supercharged Xterra wheels (17x8)" on my WD21 and there is no way it would have worked. As soon as there would have been any flex the rear tires would touch the frame big time. If I recall correctly the WD22 Xterras and R50 Pathys run similar or identical offset.

Make yer own.

http://nissanperformancemag.com/projects/pathfinder.php I posted this link on NPORA before. Maybe you'll find it useful.

:confused: I think I deciphered what you tried to write: You bought a used Pathy and moved from a low altitude state to a much higher altitude one. Pathy runs like crap now. Is this what you mean? If so, do a full tune up. Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, filters, fluids, etc... should make a nice difference. Also at higher altitutes the air is less dense so there will be less oxygen for the engine to burn, hence less power. You can also do a leakdown test to see if you need a valve job.