unccpathfinder

if you have some good size friends (big ole boys) open the doors and run a tow strap down through the shifter hole and under the tranny and back up out the otehr side...put a jack handle or something strong through the loops....put a jack under it for stability and you can lower and lift the tranny pretty effectively (learned this from a guy in an apmt complex parking lot that I ended up helping him finish changing a clutch in a 94 and thats how we did it... also make sure you get a new clutch flywheel pilot bushing and all that jazz with an alignment tool and replace the rear main seal b/c theres no reason to turn around and do this again in 4 or 5 months

Here ya go...hope this is what you needed wiring.pdf

mark your connections for everything wiht tape or paint pen b/c if something comes up and it takes u a month to get back around to it, everything will be nice and marked...another good practice is putting bolts/nuts back through the mating flanges once they're removed so they dont get lost... i'd say on the dropping of the tranny...if your an auto probably no if your a manual maybe...i tried putting the clutch in after i dropped the engine in and i didnt have enough room so i just dropped it out... make your life easier and get the extensions and u joints... a good way to get exhaust bolts out is with an air impact at about 80 PSI (everyone is going to yell and scream on that advice but it works and i have yet to bust an exhaust bolt (studs are different tho cant get air in there to test those out) but I have only broken exhaust bolts by hand tools the air works wonders and i learned it from a mechanic buddy of mine at an exhaust shop...told me he'd give me $100 if i broke 1 using air so i took him up on the offer and none broke...

good advice casey... for the hood pull the washer fluid lines before removing the hinge bolts...loosen all hinge bolts and leave minimal threads on..you may have to razor the sealant there are many different versions...I have pulled the engine in an 87 MT and a 95 AT and neither 1 I could get out without dropping the FA...i've heard people do it but i have not personally done it and wasted more time trying to get it out without dropping the axle 1st... my 1st 1 was definitely an experience but I have done 2 swaps entirely by myself but a helping hand is much better and safer (i always had my phone within reaching distance incase i needed to call 911 I would say: 1. Jack up front and remove tires and place front end on jackstands... 2. Pb exhaust studs...its going to be easier to remove the Y pipe (down pipe) than try to remove the manifolds and Y piped together (dont even know if this is possible) 3. Loosen up tbars and remove them 4. break the tranny bolts loose and remove the starter (lots of extensions and U joints help out) (theres 4 on the front side or engine side) 5. Loosen tranny linkages and what not and from the tranny mount along with the rear driveshaft 6. Remove tranny bolts and either slide tranny back or drop it...i always opted to drop it (be careful this is a heavy) 7. loosen up the cvs from the front axle mating flange 8. drop out front axle 9. hook engine to engine hoist (if you dont have them go to the JY and find a set of factory lifting eyes and attach them makes like a lot simplier b/c its balanced) 10. make sure everything electrically, coolant, cable wise and fuel lines are removed i would crack the gas cap to keep it from building pressure and place a bolt in the line and c clamp it up to keep it from leaking 11. pull engine 12 do everything in reverse... good luck...i'll send you a huge helper via PM... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7344&st=20 here are some pix/descriptions of my problems/ingenuity to get the job done...slick has a pretty good write up somewhere...but check for ure PM...good luck

i've got one of those for sale too ...my mom is trying to take it from me since her brand new heep has already fried the ECU and now like 10 other things burned up on it as a result...so she thinks I am going to give her my pathy...maybe let her drive it till dec but i need to sale it or get it here

I never really noticed a lot in my 87...but on my 95 when the compressor would kick on on the highway i would feel it draw down a lot of my power...i know its not what u're really looking for but i could def notice power loss in my 95 when the comp hit...

there's a interlock switch in the stick that is your interlock for park...I would probably guess that the metal pushtab snapped or is almost worn out causing it to not make contact all the time when its in park...you can cut it and splice those wires together or replace it...but if you do cut the wires and splice them together it will start in any gear... just pulled out the FSM...its called the "inhibitor relay with or without ASCD (cruise)" item 8w is without and 9w is with...heres an image from the FSM...I circled the relays (not sure where they are located exactly) but the switch is on the shifter somewhere in there...its a lil box with a toggle lever its prob about 1" x 1/8" 1/4" in size...for my swap to work i just taped that bad boy so it contacts all the time (i used an auto harness in MT)

where are you located...I'm fixing to list an engine on ebay (wont list it if you want it) It should run but I have not seen it run...I bought an altima engine from my buddy at a JY i used to work at back home so I know he doesnt sale crap so I dont think there is an issue but just have to put it out there...it has all the seals replaced including head gaskets and water pump and all that jazz...its been retrofitted to the pathy engine with a 2wd HB water pump and still the altima timing belt (square tooth instead of round tooth) I've got probably a solid $500+ in this engine I can also provide california emission parts...its located in california city and its on an engine stand...make me an offer and we'll see what we can do...I've also got an extra set of heads that are (mostly good) (a couple of dings in the casting where a piece of trash banged around in the cylinder) these heads were rebuilt about 25k ago and the only reason I kept them was for spares in case something bad happened... I also would like to mention that you may want to pull the TB cover to make sure the TB is still tight..if not i'd pull the heads to see if there is major damage do the pistons...if not rebuild the heads and try her again...I broke a tb on my 87 (reason the heads above were rebuilt) I spent about $250 and 3 days (1 waiting for parts) to rebuild them with the assistance of my now ex gf's dad in their garage/driveway...so that may very well be an option

I could be mistaken but I believe its brazed on...

I think its an offroad thing...but I'm way faster in hitting the clutch and hitting the key to start it back up than that lil button...

Wheelman had those in his cluster (now in my truck) I didnt think they were leds but maybe they are...I have driven the truck several times at night and have not had a problem with the viewing angle...it's very easy on the eyes as well

the auto's can go bad without upgrades to the cooling system...whats your location...I have a 95 manual that is in NC and I have listed it 2 times on ebay which I got a scammed bid the 1st go round and the 2nd go round I didnt get any bids...it has some issues but I'll send you the description if your interested...

tip #1 in pulling the engine...dont drop the front axle on ure finger it hurts tip #2 take your time tip #3 change the timing belt, rear main seal, oil pan gasket and everything else that could possibly go bad before installing the engine its a lot easier to work on outside the truc if the air filter was not wet I'm going to go with there wasnt any water pulled into the engine but when it was cranked without the air filter it sucked some nasties into the engine and either welded to the piston or hammered out a bearing (check the heads and pistons for interference scars) not a completely true statement...at the right conditions water can even be compressed

I'd check to make sure everything is tight...jack it up and move things around and see if you can find anything with excessive play does the click change with speed...I had some cheap brake pads 1 time that had the shims glued to the back and the shims slid out and were hitting the spindles where the rotors attach so you may want to check that out as well

nice job...I should dig out that ole relocation kit I have laying in the parts box and hook it up...but I really like the oil filter access with the headers on there its a lot easier to get in and out... Just thought of some things...I would maybe butterfly band the 2 oil lines at the top where they could rub together and I cant really tell the clearances on the manifolds but i'd make sure she was good and tie banded back and possibly had some heat shielding added to those hoses so you dont have to worry about blistering and busting an oil hose...that would sucks...

I'll keep updates...I really would like to have it here...I got an 07 Camry and I really hate cars but I cant complain on the gas mileage...I just like the pathfinders more...I would like to bring it here fix the couple little things that are wrong with her and "try to sell it again" and just eventually keep it and let the gf drive the 87 and I can drive the 95 which the 87 is my baby but the gf likes it more...but i dont see that happening cuze shes already pissed that I bought these R/C cars off of ebay even tho she's gonna play with them more than me probably...she just doesnt completely understand the whole "boys will be boys and they gotta have all their toys" I'm just pissed this guy is like "I didnt buy it" well @!*% some1 did and I just dont want to pay $40 to relist it...I'm almost 100% sure he's a scammer or some1 stole his ID and was trying to run a scam b/c the ID was registered back in 05 and has no score which I dont see y they would come out 2 years later and try to buy something but who knows...guess i'll find out in the coming days

So I have had several people decide they didnt want the 95 for various reasons...1 being the rear carpet is not attached but can be and its almost like new...another being that hte girl was too intimidated by the MT...and some others that were just leary of the exhaust leak and oil leak which is expected... So I filed for a dispute resolver thingy ma bob on ebay so that I could get my relist paid for the most part...now the guy repsonds talking about I didnt bid on your truck what are you talking about tell me more about it blah blah blah...I want to list it...no1 buy it and then i can bring it to Cali well really I need some1 to buy it but i'd like the truck to be here but the gf doesnt want me having 3 cars here anyways I wanted to rant and rave about my 95 loving me so much that she wants to be with me here..and this damn dead beat bidder...

so what ever came of all of this?...I'm getting closer and closer now to having to take mine in...I went through the FSM and there are a lot of extra sensors and crap on the Cali model and the ECU maps are different...I am finally here in Ca...Worked a lot on the truck last weekend...still have a coolant leak and SES light to take care of...lemmie know what kind of problems they give u and how u fixed it...

the tick will just be the actual exhaust leaking out (maybe noise from the valves opening and closing)...from the looks of it its the pass side rear (seems to be the 1 that breaks the most)...both my 87 and 95 had that same stud break off... I dont blame the mechanic for not wanting to change all the studs (although he should have) they tend to break and become very stressful...

kinda like ospho I guess...That stuff did wonders on the jeep and trailduster....suppossed to stop rust and chemically react to change it to something else and it turns black when its done...I think this stuff has a better protection plan than ospho I think the ospho is only after the rust has started...

to pinpoint the leak you can put soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it at all of your connections if it bubbles theres your leak...I woudlnt do this with the exhaust at running temperature...but that may help you pinpoint...also check the top side of the cat and muffler...when i got my 87 they both rusted in from the top side from the dirt and what not collecting up there...

did you check to make sure it was not an exhaust leak? and check the oil level just to make sure its not low

stealership and jy... dont misplace important bolts good luck with the hunt...

does the MSD ign module help out at all?

I need to get 1...and will once the 87 is back fully operational...and I really thought about after reading Pavlows experience with 3 extinguishers I thought about installing a solenoid operated fuel shut off valve and/or a fire suppression system in the engine bay luckly for me my only close encounter was a battery melt down and my quick (stupid) reaction kept her from going POOF (the reaction was coast into parking space pop hood go @!*% SMOKE yelled at the gf to get out...grabbed my wrench out of the tool box and went to loosen the clamp (didnt even think about shock) the post pulled out of the battery battery quit smoking taped up cable and got the new battery installed and drove the last 200 miles home