unccpathfinder

check the battery posts and make sure theres no corrosion and that they are tight and do the same at the starter...then test the battery...since it seems like it runs after a roll start the alty should be good but have it checked anyways... check the battery posts and make sure theres no corrosion and that they are tight and do the same at the starter...then test the battery...since it seems like it runs after a roll start the alty should be good but have it checked anyways...i'm going to say its prob a bad connection or battery

did you crack the housing accidentally on the oil pres sending unit. I had the 1 on my 87 crack where the diaphragm is and it started shooting oil everywhere...I think on 1 of my tear downs there is a series of bolts/studs that goes into an oil jacket that isnt 1 of the exhaust studs is it? I'd change that to copper asap...my buddies chevy blew out 2 of those nylon hoses and it'll dump a good bit of oil at the PSI its running but I would think that would be obvious if this was the problem

no need if you bypass the clutch interlock (my 87 that has a 95 harness and what not in it) you can start the truck at anytime no matter what gear it is in it's not biased by any means...

when you say proportioning vavle is this the ABS valve on the RH frame rail or the load sensing valve? there is a specific order (according to the FSM on the order to do it) I know we had problems with Wheelmans pathy and the ABS valve capturing air and then everything would be good and when the valve would actuate it would put air in the lines...when I did my truck I put almost an entire quart through it and didnt have any issues with a soft pedal I prefer to do Gravity Bleeds (open bleeder valve and let fluid naturally flow out) then go through and I ususaly go around the truck 2 times after I get no air coming out of the bleeders...heres a copy of the correct order from the FSM

be careful with that...it could be bad...and you rarely will need 4L and I would try not to use it on dry pavement at all...you run the risk of ripping up the tcase

great on the wheels... for the intake on the MPFI its a lil more work than the TBI but you will need some allen head sockets or use a allen wrench with a box end wrench for your torque arm...I would replace the intake gaskets if you remove the intake

the click you speak of sounds maybe like the a/c compressor kicking on or off...

I donno that I would run it long without a tstat...never heard of putting detergent in there...sorry it was a PITA...I dont remember it being that bad but its been a while...glad thats all it was tho

yea black smoke is rich...my 87 had that and I never messed with it...I'm not sure what causes intermittent spikes exactly though...I'm sure someone else will chime in...also use the search feature and see what you come up with...I came up with this... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?act=Se...=%2Boverheating BTW welcome to the boards

It'll turn out...just make sure you get the mounting brackets for the bottom dash and fuse box they are different between the box style and curve style dash...I lost those when I did my swap so the bottom half is kinda flimsey until I can fab up some stuff...

no problem...the only thing with the t stat is I would think it would do it all the time unless its stuck partially open instead of full close or full open...you may want to try to retest and possibly put some teflon tape on the tester to make sure it doesnt leak... I completely understand what your saying about the rubber hose on the tester and trying to install it...its a PITA and when I borrowed my buddies it was very aggravating and then my battery got weak and we couldnt test 4 and 6... you did have all the plugs out right? if not I think this may cause the reading to be a touch lower but could be wrong but i think that (its in the test procedure in the FSM) but i believe if all the plugs are in it can increase the resistance on the crank and possibly reduce the compression in the cylinder? just a thought i dont really know how much that matters tho

I dont think you can temp vapor lock these engines...i believe once its locked its locked until it cools down and the air can escape...could possibly be a t stat going bad or weak water pump or slipping belt under heavy acceleration how many miles are on the truck? and was the battery getting weak as you got towards cylinder 6? this will cause a drop in the final read pressures...that being said the "minimum" pressure is 128psi and/or a differential max pres of 14psi...I'd think if the engine has over 150-200k then that could be ok... I would also venture to say that the gage may not be accurate IE 105 PSI may really be something like 130...do you have a way to verify that it is giving accurate readings you can also add a lil oil into cylinder 6 and if the pressure increases this means the rings are worn in that cylinder also if you had a head gasket leak you would have milky oil and oil in the coolant and that doesnt seem to be the case since you described the oil as dirty and not milky I'd retest #6 but with the #'s u have it seems like the head gaskets are good...maybe buildup on the valves that dont let them seat well and the pressures are low but I still think there may be an accuracy issue with the tester... One final thing. when my waterpump was going out it would overheat on city driving and cause leakage from the weep hole but on the highway it got enough air through the radiator and kept it cool enough to keep the pressure from building up as bad and I didn't overheat or leak fluids until it was parked...I did have it vapor lock on me 3 times over the couple months I put off changing it...

sorry to be off topic...but did you get the engine swap completed?

the wheel centers itself via the lugnuts as opposed to the hubs...if it was hub Dependant then no you could not use it...to tell if its lug centered the wheel should have tapers where the studs pass through and the studs should also have that taper (this is the centering mechanism) if this is the case you dont need any sleeves or anything of that nature

i believe that is correct...the flares will if there is not a cutout for the fuel door...i believe...I accidently bought some bushwacker HB flares and the fronts fit great and so did the LR flare but the RR had the fuel door cutout and screwed it all up

any pathy VG should drop straight in from 86.5-95 and a change of manifolds as JJ said will keep it running...all the mounting brackets and acceessories will be the same. you can also get a 3.0 maxima engine and convert it over...a lil more work though...changing over to EFI is more work and a lot of electrical things need to be addressed...I put a 95 in my 87 and cheated...i went ahead and put the harness and dash in so I didnt have to worry with figuring out all the wiring and how to get everything to work which is possible but I just didnt want to deal with it

my 95's throwout growled on cold mornings for years (when my cousin had it and when I had it) the clutch finally gave out on it so replacing the clutch, throwout, flywheel and pilot bushing took care of it (although it was only the throwout bearing) just make sure they do your RMS while their in there...I'd hate for you to replace the clutch then it go out 3 months later and turn around and spend the same amount just to have the RMS replaced b/c labor is high due to the amount of crap that has to be removed so the clutch and RMS I would imagine would have almost the same pricetag for labor

So since I've been here I've seen several people get stuck and I was on a couple of different R/C forums and they all have Feedback score sheets that displays by the users ID and you can go in like the ebay deal and see the comments left and what not...I dont know if this forum supports that or if it costs extra or what but I thought it may be a good thing. Also setting a minimum post # before selling things may keep away the 1-2 posters that just want to post an ebay auction for their rig (which could be a good thing for our members) but it also increases the risk of getting stuck or eventually an influx of garbage. Just a thought

I drove my 87 for a good 55k miles (6 years of driving and no telling how many by the previous owner)with a leak and never had any engine issues and still had great compression even after I got some trash in #1 which caused for a swap... my 95 has had the same leak but much worse and has caused it to throw an O2 light a couple of times until it warms up and then it goes off...the gas mileage did go down a good bit as it got worse but other than that I haven't had any terminal engine damage as of yet due to the leak

no positioner to remove... As Casey said you will need to remove both driveshafts...your t bars and t bar x member...dont forget to remove the slave cylinder prior to dropping (once disconnected dont hit the clutch)..both shifters need to be removed (the t case shifter can just stay attached just the linkages need to be removed so it can drop down through the cutout...also remove the starter and the 4 bolts on the engine side along iwth all the tranny bolts...do not remove them all the way until you are ready to drop the tranny in case something goes wrong and u are under it and it decided to fall it will just slide on the bolts and not crush you 2 people is def better than 1 and may need more if you dont have the right lifts and what not...the tranny is heavy I have had to drop pathy trannys 3 times and each time its gotten better and 2 times i did it alone and 1 time with a buddy and the 2nd time was a lot easier also make sure the new one has a new throwout bearing, replace the pilot bushing, and I would go ahead and get a new clutch and flywheel. ...while your in there I would replace the rear main seal as well and check the rear cam seals to see if they need to be done and do them if needed good luck

I've got 1 out of my 87 pathy that has the 5 speed...I can check the numbers for ya if your interested

I think its a ripoff personally everywhere i found it locally wanted like $30-$40 for it...whats the difference in that and hard wiring? if i use the factory wiring to the head unit plug? it reduces the number of splices...I have only used one in a co-workers HB b/c he was paranoid about not "doing it correctly"

you sure its not the throwout bearing growling I'd hate that you would replace a tranny for that...

I may have an extra laying around...It may have been chunked but maybe not I'll look around...just shoot me a PM if interested and we can work something out

can you give more details?...My pathy is still not trail/road worthy but depending when and where exactly I could do a ride along with some1...im up in cal city