unccpathfinder

no clue...its just the OEM bracket I took off of my 95...there is a post somewhere though that you can buy the brkt...maybe whoever I sold my other maplight to will chime in since I forget (i think nissannut has a writeup on where to get the brkt) sorry im not much help on that

i guess it depends on the definition of surface rust...surface rust i'm used to is a matter of getting some 2000 grit paper and knocking the rust off and maybe touching up the clear coat... if its startint to bubble sandpaper and/or a scotch brite but an angle grinder/buffer will eat through the metal pretty quick and will make it difficult to blend in without some bondo

I think you could make it work without the bracket if you're careful with the trims...if you make it just right the clips should clip right to the sheetmetal but the only issue I see with that maybe the headliner b.c it wont leave enough gap but I guess you could trim the headliner to clear the light but don't take my word for that Thanks

that'd be sweet...the funny thing is I rarely use them...but usually people in my car/truck will use them...I eventually want to build an overhead console for lights, radios and whatever...but if I put the sunroof in then that goes away

I must have really gotten lucky...all of my bolts aligned perfectly...every post preached how bad those rear mounts were and I didnt have a lick of trouble...lucky i guess

As I said in my PM...the wheels on my truck are the Rock Crawler series 75 and i'm pretty sure they're the 3.75 BS but maybe its the 4...I am pretty sure they're 10.5 and I had to crank the Tbars after I got it from my cousin b/c it would grab the flares after i put them back on and the shop did some trimming on the valence and fenders...a 3" body lift should give you plenty of clearance for 31's mud grips like I have b/c I grabbed all 4 fenders with my current setup at hollister and calico I'm pretty new ot the tire/wheel thing as well even though my dad built tires for 25 year and still counting...but its coming to me...also you can search around and there are lots of discussions about it. Good luck

yea I was pretty excited it worked out...it was dark and cold last night and i didnt want to come in here and look at pictures so i held the brkt up and was like yea this could work...and it did

just pulled my front RS5000's off (doing CV install) and they're oil filled I do believe and they remain in the same position...I'm going to try to swap them out before too long though since I still have receipts and they're like 9 years old...

31s are stock...you just may have needed to crank the Tbars and/or trim a little on the front valence but thats just a little extra info common problems...i think its usually caused by one of the locks sticking (usually passenger side door) white exhaust is fine if its a cold morning probably just burning off condensation...the strong gas smell could be the clamps on the fuel lines at the fuel rails are loose and if you tighten those up that should take care of that hope that hleps

I'm not 100% on the light but I know my 87 did and I got a cluster from a 91 or 93 and it had one so I figured the 92 did...I can't remember right off...but to find it shine a flashlight on the faceplate and you should see one that has an engine profile on it (i dont think it has the white/black painted on the face I think its a shadow type light)

I guess one thing to note is the ~1" strip that mounts the rubber edge for the headliner along the front windshield is removed right now so that will be one difference you will see... (its shown in the 95 pic)

yep its a little orange light...might have a bulb burned out

Alright...I saw a write up sometime ago on installing the maplight and how you can buy the brkt and all of that b/c the front cross support on the 95 has reliefs formed into the sheetmetal which the 87 didnt have. I had the bracket from the 95 so I knew what my options were...cut and install....Right now I do not have the headliner in b/c the headliner I have is with the sunroof...which I will probably attempt to install within the next 6 months but it is kinda low on the priority list right now. That being said with the light installed I have about the thickness of the headliner between it and the roof so I think this will work out just fine. First this is what the 87 looks like: this is what the 95 looks like: The these pieces could be removed and swapped but they put this nice adhesive between it and the roof that i didnt even want to mess with b/c I've tangoed with it before when i stripped that 94 and its just nasty so I positioned the bracket and centered it with my eyes so if its not perfect thats why...marked the holes hit them with a punch, drilled them and installed temp screws: I then marked out the approximate cut knowing I would have to go a little wider than my marks: Dremiled out the sheetmetal: test fit light and trimmed some more then reinstalled brkt and mirror: routed the wires and put in fasteners i pulled from the 95 and she's good to go: This took me about an hour to complete from start to finish which included routing the wires that I forgot to route for the lighted sun visors and the map light...I had to pull the connector apart to route it down behind the dash then pull the lower dash out to reassemble the connector and connect it to its mating connector...not too bad for tonight considering it got cold out so I had to roll the truck back in my tiny garage. One thing I may go back and do is drill a hole in the center right above the mirror mount and put a grommet on it and route the wire down through that hole but we'll see

man I wasnt even around for mr jims site..thats the 1st time i've seen that

Everyone get back on topic...this isnt in the pathy but the malibu...

I thought this was interesting... http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://npora.ipbhost.com Here is the 1st archive with a little over 1000 posts (2004): http://web.archive.org/web/20040106050753/...ra.ipbhost.com/ Jan 2005: http://web.archive.org/web/20050117013427/...ra.ipbhost.com/ Jan 2006: http://web.archive.org/web/20060105085848/...ra.ipbhost.com/ Jan 2007: http://web.archive.org/web/20070105045259/...ra.ipbhost.com/ no more archives after 2007

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/searchTir...250&rd=16.5 I think they'll ship to you...

its def not like chevy/gmc...there are a wide range of years that will open any chevy/gmc truck door...I know we used my buddys sonoma key on a silverado multiple times to get @!*% out of his truck

Heh...i soaked it in PB for about a half hour and pulled the rubber sleeve off...put some vice grips on it...set those across the opening in one of them there cyinder blocks and took a flat punch (an old 6" extension" and beat the @!*% out of it...I've still got about 1/4" more to go so it'll be in a happy place but I left it for then to work on other things

hell its worth mentioning b/c i thought my tcase was messed up for hte longest time b/c i could never go past 4hi...then one day i accidently pushed down on it and pulled back and bam we were in 4Lo...then the little light came on and i felt dumb for a while heh...

yea what PINIP was saying if you put oil in the cylinders as suggested to diagnose a ring problem then when you 1st crank it you're going to have to burn all of that oil off which I would guess may take as much as 5 mins depending on how much of it blew out of the exhaust valve and into the exhaust and how long it takes to burn off in the exhaust system...

heh well if you count each block, nut, bolt, washer etc as a single part then yea I got close to that done...yea but I don't HAVE to do the relocation...thats just me being me and knowing that somehow the fan will grab the shroud and i'll be up poop creek...the shifters work as they are but they're going to be a lil short (mainly the 4wd ones) so its a want not a desire Yea i pulled mine as well... yea I highly recommend warming them up...i figured i fooled with those things for an hour or more and finally i think my hand heat got the rubber soft enough to stretch out over the extension but it still needed a lil persuasion with a flat tip Another want is not using those cheesy bumper relocation brackets...I will need to do something better than that...b/c I think if something hits the bumper that will be game over

Congrats, thats awesome Heh...I was thinking about that for my NPORA TOTM...

no notching of my floor in the 87 for either shifter...I am going to take the extra set I have and chop them off tap the bottom and extend my shifters by 3" each looks like the stock hoses will work but some trimming is going to be required...i just pulled the radiator back out though b/c I want to fab up a relocation bracket until I can do the Efan mod b/c after seeing Mark's it cleans up the engine bay a ton by extending do you mean stretching out the coils? heh well thanks and nah your the machinist, you have endless resources for making things you need with the correct tools, I just have to improvise a lot...I've been fixing things since I was a kid which always made momma mad when she threw something away and it showed up working later on or in 1000 pieces b/c i wanted to see how it worked...see description below avatar for day job (thats the label I got when I was working as a Design Engineer I at freightliner b/c i'd come out on the floor and show the guy how to install it if "it can't be installed")... I was waiting for me to bust some weldnuts loose and was very thankful that didn't happen...I wouldnt say it was smoother...that fuel filler neck extension was a PITA that took longer than putting the body blocks in...I still have the steering shaft and PS pump to deal with but I don't forsee those being a HUGE deal but ya never know sometimes the easiest stuff takes the longest

you would be able to swap out all of the mounting brkts for the engine...the problem is getting the turbo's in the bay...I havent actually seen the engine out of a 300 but I know in a 300 it fills the bay which appears to be wider than the pathy but then again i havent seen the 300 next to a pathy either... I have some crazy fab theory's to try to get it to work but I would definitely take lots of measurements before attempting it. I would assume it would have the right bolt pattern for the tranny but there may be a difference in the crank to output shaft but don't really know. I wish someone would donate me a pathy and a 300 and pay me to do the mod b/c I could get it done I think the solution for the wiring would be best to get a full harness with ECU from the 300 b/c that is what you primarily need is the engine to function...you would also need to know what parameters the ECU pulled from (for example electronic speedo, rear axle speed, 02s etc) I learned a lot of what the ECU needed in my 87 to 95 swap I would expect to spend something like $6k minimum on this