unccpathfinder

both of my trucks have done that...i tightened the clamp several times until the hose cracked

yep that's a bad clutch master cylinder...mine is currently doing it and i'm cheap fixing it by refilling but eventually the Oring will let go completely...i've had a slave cylinder go bad too (its down on the transmission and converts they hydraulic pressure into mechanical work by pushing the fork to disengage the clutch

i'd get a donor truck and do the entire harness swap again...and if i needed rear axle parts or tranny parts or anything else i'd have it so its just transplanting a working system into a diffrent vehicle but like i said thats dreaming big and way in the future

very true MY1PATH...I have plans for cams, port and polish and a tuneable ECU but those are well down the line... With the time i spent one would rather do a SAS with a 350 I would imagine but I wanted a unique truck and don't know many people that would do what I did...in the future I may get a frontier donor truck and upfit to the 3.3 and maybe that dash...but that would probably be on a 95 and not for the next 5-10 years if ever... Anything is possible with enough $ and time

Yep its very possible...and Yep its a lot of work...there is a lot that the ECU drives off of...like the electronic speedo...you can search my posts here and on 4x4parts.com my 95 was my donor for my 87...this is the 1st attempt with a 94 engine...it worked but threw all kinds of ECU errors...so thats y i decided to do the entire swap... some other pix... First Test wheel after swap:

stock 87 on 31x10.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers...the only issue i had was my truck was the version that didn't come with 31's as an option so at full wheel lock the nobs on the tires would grab the frame but I quickly learned how car I could turn the wheel...they're on stock wheels and there was no issue of rubbing fenders or anything

for sure...I had no LH drills tho...my tool selection in CA really sucks right now but the trunk of my camry is pretty good here in NC

Broken studs without ez outs... OK most of my specialty tools are here in NC...while in CA with the truck I had a Warn hub grenade on me shearing 3 of the bolts off in the spindle...I had my drill but didnt want to spend the $ on a new set of EZ outs...since those bolts have no load on them after being sheared they should be pretty easy to get out once i overcame the torque of the locktite... I took a punch and center punched the sheared studs and then drilled in about 1/4"...I first start with a flat head with a tapered head and tap it in so it deforms the stud and try to back it out...if this doesnt work then I also try a phillips head with the same method of hitting it iwth a hammer to make notches for it to grab...you can also step the hole size up to use a larger screwdriver and get more torque...this worked for all of my studs which i was happy about

I either got lucky or have some good CVs or a faulty warn hub...after my last outing...The pop I thought was a CV turned out to be my warn hub...i'm looking at doing an ARB rear then possibly front later but a rear locker will make all the difference in the world.

sounds like my 95 and I'm pretty sure its the IACV b/c i can give it gas like a carb engine and it will run and sometimes after highway speeds and clutching it'll die...I've seen this on a mustang before but much worse...so thats my guess for my truck

both of mine were threaded

take the rear panel off and theres a single wire going to it...with the door shut and just bump it and i bet you find that the lights go on and off...after my swap that was my problem so i just yanked it out...sometimes when it grounds out while wheeling at night i notice the lights flicker but i'm not too worried about taping up the spade connector as of yet..

i'd be careful about buying from those guys :thumbsup: I knew the good mechanics that worked there about 5 years ago I think it was called 4A automotive then...i could go check it out if you were seriously interested in it...i'll be in the Nam this weekend seeing family before i fly out to CA...PM me or facebook me looks like the pix were taken at the shop i was talking about but the truck is actually in carthage...didnt even know that town was big enough to have a car lot...

I don't know about the brush guard?

I have never been able to find bearings for our turcks that fit...I experienced your problem several times and always opted to find used bearings and i have like 4 sets now so I always have a spare...here are some images of what i found: original bearing: new bearing: my topic: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5844&view=&hl=bearings&fromsearch=1

my thorleys are welded at the cross over...i have removed them and installed them on 2 different trucks and 3 different engines...it was a lil sketchy but not too bad

got my 87 when i was 16...now 26 and never getting rid of her...

4x4 parts has some cams that they sale but I don't know much about them...I think someone here has them but can't remember who

+1 and +1 on the images above

95 roof:

a bigger hammer...i recall reading lots of posts on this and it being very difficult...I haven't tried it so i can't offer up too much...but i have heard of people heating things up like that then "quenching" it so that any rust/corrosion has a chance to "break apart" from the expansion and "rapid contraction"

check out Steeevo's truck...he trimmed at the OEM fender flare "rub" lines

check codes...could be the EGR...thats what mine was the lil tube broke in half that goes between the 2 diaphragms

i'ved used a cheap clicker from pepboys for like 8 years...never had an issue with warped heads over 2 years so I suspect that it was calibrated well enough...I had to buy a new one b/c someone I let borrow it never gave it back and I can't remember who borrowed it so I bought another clicker from autozone

the ECU needs the electric speedo to work right...I found that out in my swap...and theres not a good way to swap over the cable driven speedo to the newer dash...i tried that too and then found out my truck would throw a CEL light for not having the speedo input...