unccpathfinder

OUCH...

anyway to set up a directory where members could submit their headers and if they're clean (possibly having a template like the 1 above that has the npora forums and they place their pic) so that it would randomly load? i know UNCC had that on their home page for a long time but i donno if that would kill any bandwidth and/or how hard that would be

i have blue vent bezels...on the center 1 the 3 taps have been broekn off forever but when u put the black bezel back on it holds it in place...i have all 3 the only thing is on the pass side the black housing doesnt hold the vent in so u could pop the tabs off carefully and swap them with ures? to give you an idea of the blue that was in my 87

charlotte does taht...just out of a huge van...and they have signs posted for speed limit enforced by photo...right now thats "unconstitutional" or something so they cant use the redlight or speed cameras...but the speed 1's are easy...if u dont see a big white van continue to haul ass...

i just usually throw some car wax on the glass while im waxing it...its the same as rain x i think sometimes it works better.... i know in the 95 the wiper amplifier is in the back left corner (but that might be for the rear windsheld wiper)... but now that i think of it i know there was an added box on the wipers without intermid and 1 with... if i think about it i can check my wiring harness (if i can locate the plug for the motor) and compare it to the FSM to see if the non intermidt. has the wires or not...if i dont get back and ure curious shoot me a PM to remind me...its gonna be a crazy week/end the race is in town and i have 8 people coming it to stay at the house starting tomorrow i'd check the connectors on the wiper motor to make sure the # of wires coorelate like 88 said...if so just swap the switch and the motor..but like i said if i can try and check that out

intakes...oil pan..oil pickup...dipstick tube and water pumps (unless u change the housing for the t belt) if not then get a hard body 2wd wp...im pretty sure there is no diff in the heads i believe its the fuel delivery and ecu programing that give the maxmia the boost... ohh yea nad the 1 i got had red valve covers (that oculd be the boost right there) i dont have that 100% confirmed but im pretty sure thats hwat i've heard and i didnt see any diff in the cams... i did the swap and never ran it...dropped in a 95 instead so i have a maxima converted to pathy...might be going up for sale soon... (that was an 86 maxima to an 87 pathy but u could go to a 95 with it)

i dont think anything b/c i cut out the fogs in the 95 swap...and then spliced in high temp sockts...maybe its 2 coincidental events

i didnt figure it would hurt but i just wanted to make sure no1 had any bad experiences...its not like running wihtout a valve cover and shooting oil everywhere...its just a "dust cover" but red seriously i have to cut the engine off first? (bill engvall skit on stupid people should wear signs and some guy trying to change a fan belt with the car running so they had to put a warning label on the belt about turn engine off before changing) thanks guys...i'm gonna try to look at it some more this week but the gf returns tomorrow and a buddy comes in on thurs and then 5 more come in on fri/sat for the race so i doubt i'll have a lot of time to get her checked out htis week so it'll prob be next week till im 100% done

mine makes noise till i put the key in the ignition and usually im quick enough to open the door and get the key in B4 it starts blaring... (mines a 95)

ahh thats prob it...sent u a PM with something that might help out...

water pump?

thats what i figured...thanks ole red...its just with my luck the tensioner would break as im looking and to thru my head or chest or something...hmm maybe i need a flap jacket and a riot shield for this...

didnt learn a whole lot tonight...b/c it gets dark way to friggin early... i did learn that wheelman got screwed on his w/p timing belt job...i'd like to personally find the mechanic that did the work if hes asme certified cut the badge off of his shirt and give him a piece of my mind... on 3 of the timing belt cover bolts they ground them off...broke the ear on the bottom of the crank (thats not a big deal cuze i did that on my 87 but then again i didnt know what i was doing at that point and time) they undid all the bolts in that hold the pulleys onto the harmonic balancer so they were all loose and 2 were missing...the crank bolt i didnt even need a hammer to break loose it came with 1 good thump from my hand and barely had to use the puller to get the balancer off... the water pump and timing belt were not changed i really think they got in there and were like screw this im not doing that...the w/p is leaking out of the weep hole and has been doing so for a while...the belt had all kinds of small cracks in it looking like it was about ready to pop at any second... now for my oil leaks im kinda scared now...theres oil all over the water pump but none on the belt and i dont think there is anything above it that could leak...so im hoping its still the RH cam b/c that is the only evident spot its leaking...so if i have time this week im going to wipe it all down and crank her up is it a bad idea to do this without the tb cover on b/c i really dont want to put all that crap back together...i wanna tie back anything that could get in the way and see where she leaks (hopefully) and possibly throw the belt back on the alt. (of course i would be putting the harmonic balancer and crank bolt back in)

ahh i miss read...well what i did was took 3 of the bolts out of the harmonic balancer went to NAPA and found some 3 in long 1's with the same threads and bam she worked...if u find the right threads u could pick up a tap if ure scared u damaged the threads and carefully i mean carefully fix them

from measuring and converting... 87: 25 95: 27 thanks guys...i was really curious to y that changed or was different since the rest of it is the same... crazy engineers...they must have found something out between 86.5 and 89...b/c the 1 in that 95 engine is alot more ballzy lookin than that 87...

^ no my 87 and 95's are different...thats what i thought till i tried it and it was too small...

yea thats the best way to get it out... u can try to get a puller for like a chevy or something that has the prongs that will either fit behind it or in ure belt grooves to get it out...the 1st time i took the 1 off of the 87 it was a pain once u get that off i'd line up ure T belt marks and make sure the 1 for the crank is punched in the block...i know my 87 wasnt but i donno if/when they fixed it and it'll make lining it all up a lot easier esp if something were to move....

if it ever quits raining i will go measure...but 37 sounds good...thats like 1.4 or so inches that seems too big...i think its like 29 o so just from looks but ???? i guess i'll measure iwth the calipers and convert

friggin slick looking...some1 found a customs loop hole

bump...some1 has to know....

meter that was it...well if all of the fuses are good then i'd start checking the wiring

being that it just started raining and its pretty chilly out i dont feel like going out with my calipers and measuring the bolt...but i know its a diff size than the 87 bolts b/c the socket didnt even come close to fitting on it... any1 know what size it is on a 95?

pull the hubs...pop off the retainer clips...then the 5 or 6 bolts on the front axle and ure done after the reinstall...

i had a slave cylinder boot bust on me...everytime i hti the cltuch it would work but it was leaking out that amount every time...good thing about that is i never had to bleed it...it bled itself so adding fluid got it fixed till i had time to change it...

when me and wheelman did his it was my 1st experience and it SUCKED...we did upper and lower and the seperator wasnt tall enough so i ahd to put a wrench on either side of it to give it enough lift to seperate... then 1 of the sockets on the upper on the driver side busted..so we hacksawed it in half then held it with vice grips and got the castle nut off...took us like 3.5 hrs or 4 to do all 4 of those and rotors and calipers and SST brake lines... but now i know the tricks i had to do and am ready to do it again...