unccpathfinder

rugh rough... 230k is a bad mileage for not knowing if the t belt is changed...mine popped at 225k...so yea i'd check for the t belt if its broken cross ure fingers and pray to the valve gods and you might be very lucky to have not bent any...i was doing 50 when mine popped and hit the clutch instantly (maybe my saving grace to kill the bottom end rotation from coasting in gear) and i bent 3 valves...

yea i was thinking about it a lil more today...im just gonna pull the shafts and check it out to see what the diff really is...its not that hard to pull the drums apart and slap them back together as long as i dont find anything i dont like

i was going to say wack the hell out of the dash 1 or 2 good times and they'll come back on...my 87 has done that about 3 times and a good whack fixes it....

i got white smoke out of the intake when i had the timing 180 degs after doing a t belt change...

does the carrier have the gear ratio in the casting?...the auto 1 in the garage has 463 (assuming 4.63~4.625) and mine has 4.78...not sure if this means anything or not...

oil will be blue...white is prob just condensation/water/mud in the pipes...the gas smell im still leaning towards no spark in a couple of cylinders due to either cap or plug wires or and/or plugs possibly being fouled... i would check the air filter if its wet...pull all of the plugs and turn the engine over for like 5-10 secs to blow any water out of the cylinders (hopefully if htere is any it hasnt already messed something up on the initial crank) but i dont think u have water in the intake my 87 has actually ate some water/mud and i never knew it till i changed the filter the next go round... then i'd check all the wires and dist cap and if she cranks let her run till its at operating temp and i bet she'll be running fine...

what color smoke? black? whites ok if it goes away prob just water in the exhaust system... im going to take a wild guess and say either the plug wires worked loose either from impact or water splashing in the hood from a rapid decent in the puddle... or the dist cap is full of water... my 87 would run like crap after wheeling if i got any water near the dist...just pop it off and dry it out slap it back on and on my merry way...

im still waiting on that story of i hit something...i pulled mine on the street and for some reason hit that button and tried to turn it over and she jumped fwd bucked and off we went...if u hit it while the truck is on it makes the dash light up like a xmas tree IIRC...

although it sounded like @!*%...i dont think i could do that to my pathy...he could have made some good money off that think parting it out... -thnkboutit-

seafoam is some good stuff...i've just recently talked with a mechanic buddy and he was saying some tranny fluid will do the same (i know it works great in diesels but heard it was the same in gas) donno the amount per gallon...but i know some folks that took his advice and it helped out a lot and didnt throw any codes or anything...im really skeptical tho...

a press will get the old bushing out just fine...then a torch will get them off of the connecting rods...

u can also use the vg30 from the 86.5-90 but would have to swap the intakes (and i believe that is all)...i used an 86 maxima vg but it involves swapping oil pick up, oil pan, accessory brackets and relocating dipstick and some other stuff im prob forgetting but nothing really difficult... once you have found an engine i would try to run a compression check (most junkyards have the ability to do that) i would change valve cover gaskets, cam seals, tbelt, water pump, rear main seal and oil pan seal before even dropping it in if it were me...

as for the t bar crank...it could have helped it by putting it under more stress...but not the reason it broke...it was already weak and couldnt withstand the added stresses with more lift...mods to original ride heights and anything esle always induce more force/friction and anything else bad b/c it was designed as a system in one (for the most part but there are good f ups and can always be improved) but there are safety factors that allow for lifts/lowers, HP increases/torque gains etc etc...so all in all it was going bad but the extra lift might have pushed the limits... moments (torque arms) are a bad thing (most of the time, sometimes they are good)

88's is a combo of 2 diff style lifts...he can correct me if im wrong...but he has a superlift (i think trailmaster had the same) which drops the front xmember that the LCAs connect to for 3" and then a tbar lift which gives the other 3" so its 2 diff styles of lifts that add up...and i believe (havent read his sign. in a while but he has some body to it as well... lifts arent cheap for these trucks so be prepared to spend some $ and on the tbar crank...yea it will make u wear on the outside...i've put 30k on my bfg a/ts (they suck off road IMO) but i'm just now seeing cupping where i need to rotate (i have yet to do so) and then i figured i'll slack and after 30k on those i'll swap the whitewalls outwards and prob get 5-10 k on each of those B4 the treads are completely gone...but i believe if u do the crank then do an alignment they can correct it so its not as bad on wear (i havent hear of camber kits for our trucks)

sweet...yea they're both drums...so for the gear ratio diff...they have the same splines/gear pitches just diff size rings in the axle?...sorry im paranoid...if i didnt have to go to work i'd say hey lets go for it but for right now its i have to get to work i cant hope something is gonna work i have to know

thanks 88...i've got both front and rear off the same year (95) but it was auto...so from what u're saying i could swap the shafts and be golden...

the issue is i drive 140 miles a day (m-f) ...the shop around here that is good is only open m-f...so i was trying to find a way to be able to drive to work while my shafts have the bearings replaced...but i wont be able to do the work today anyways b/c its raining...so i'll end up taking it to the shop sometime this week if my roommate will let me borrow 1 his cars after he gets back from vegas...

yea do what they said...try and contact the original owner? if not assume its never been changed and change it...its no fun when it breaks...esp if u cant do the work personally...and when u do it do the water pump and prob the cam seals...

if i change ratio's how bad is that going to throw off my speedo/gas mileage...and would that do anything funky with the T case? i looked this up in the FSM and it doesnt even say anything really about the RA...just that the manual and auto was a 233b (i have a feeling thats just the casing tho) im going to go out and look at ID plates and see what i can find out exactly what i have...

take the fan and what not loose and put a socket on the crank (tranny in N) its better to check early than later if something is trashed... i really regret not grinding the piece of metal off of my piston that fell in the cylinder nad put the head back on to see if it killed the noise B4 doing my swaps...after inspection i could have just ground off that tiny piece of metal (the knocking was it actually hitting the head) and i would have saved me these 10ish months of 2 swaps (although im very pleased with my 95 dash swap) but i still havent finished that... it sounds like ure on a budget so something you can do can always help out...and if ure not mechanically inclined...if its fubared then its a great way to learn without worrying too much on breaking something... (i mean u can still mess up other things but it limits everything) another thing u might can do...fill her up with oil and try to get her to turn over...(make sure the plug is magnetized also u might want to strain the oil or run a magnet thru the drained oil to see if it didnt settle to the plug...then drain it and see if u get any metal shavings/chunks...i'd imagine the thrown rod would leave some sort of mess behind...

neither one of them are LSD...and i thought about doing that but thats a good bit of work...and im not sure if the ABS sensors are the same on them...i have yet to check it out...but planning on it tomorrow...

epiphany came to me tonight while sitting in traffic...i've got a rear end out of a 95 (i've got to check if its the same 1 as mine i know they're both not LSD but i donno if they had a diff 3rd member/axles for auto's and manuals) but if they're the same (splines length and all that jazz) it wouldnt be bad to pull my axle shafts and put those in would it) since the races and everything are contained on the shaft and i know the 1's in the other axle are good i could swap and life be peachy.. my concern is if there is a different type of wear on my ring gear and the other axles it could possibly cause slop and what not or nothing to worry about...i believe nothing to worry about but i've never mixed used with used on the rear end but have done new to used which the new will wear into the used... i would plan to then fix my shafts and eventually swap back...but that would ensure me transportation...

theres a switch for the auto shifter...either take the shifter apart and get this switch out or clip the right 2 wires and solder them together... (its the neutral lockout switch i believe if u look at the schematic) it will prevent fire from getting to the cylinders...

prob some sort of pilot bushing...they have pullers...u can use clay and some sort of rod to push it out...i always just take a 1/16" drill bit and drill on top and bottom the carefully hit it with a chisel and pull both halves out... then u should have to press the new pilot bushing in... you are doing auto to manual?

i wouldnt reuse the seals... for my wd21 with bearings w/races and seals it will be right along the lines of $80 but i dont have LSD...those cost about 80 a piece so it'd be like $200ish