unccpathfinder

sent u a message...Welcome aboard

our inspections are yearly...and getting an NC sticker is nothing but a thing bc i havent changed my front glass yet where its busted up and they wont pass it with that so i got a guy back home that passed it for me no issues... would an out of state vehicle have to pass the emissions? or just cali registered 1s so are the smog stations stated owned...here people program their ecu's for obdII tests so they pass...im not sure how they do it but i've got a buddy who removed all of the emissions off of his trans am and has his readings B4 he took it all off and as he pulls up he just loads everything and they get readings for the egr and all of that stuff thats not even on the car so the 87 with the 95 engine would be able to pass as long as the sniffer doesnt detect anything out of the limits?...do they have different standards for different years?

i would suspect there was a reason they removed it (maybe that its pretty annoying) also on the center console theres a 3 pos alarm switch but that was prob removed too u have power locks correct? you could possibly use an add on keyless entry setup and it might be cheaper...something like below maybe http://www.drdetailshop.com/v210hv.htm http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/DEI-Valet-K...roductDetail.do more at circuit city: http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/category.do...88+20013097&c=1

Theres a chance in about 6 months to 1 year i will be coming to cali for 3-4 years...a lot of this decision is going to be based on if my pathy's can go with me and what not (the other reason is the gf got stationed at Edwards AFB)... I'm not familiar with all of the emissions out there b/c in NC i just have to pass a safety inspection and i know my 87 was a "cali" model until the swap...so i wasnt sure how all of that stuff works etc etc...i went to the cali DMV and DOT sites s well as here and wasnt very successful in finding any info...and i know several of u are out there and could shed some light on it... if i can do it my plan is to keep everything in NC (registration, license and all of that) but I dont know how the inspections would work out... Thanks in advance

i should have said also feel on the backside between the head and firewall mine always leak on the back inside corners of both heads last time mine was the LH valve cover leaking out of the back and i could only rub back there and get oil on my fingers...but it doesnt really seem like thats it... good point on that oil pressure switch slick...i cracked the casing on mine when i did the top end rebuild on the 87 but it shot oil all over the place like a friggin fire hose

10-4 will be in touch in the new location...88 u tha man

have u checked the simple things...plugs/wires/dist rotor/dist cap/air filter/fuel filter check the O2 yet? possibly disconnecting it and try to crank the truck it should run up to somewhere on the RH side of the engine bay if u follow the wires up

up on the firewall theres a sensor for the hood open...its a pressure switch... and there should be a speaker on the LH side fender

my valve covers coated like that...it was running down the back side of the head and following the tranny around and looked as if it was coming from the RMS but in fact it was the valve covers...i've have plenty of those leak on both of my pathy's...who thought phillips head screws were a good idea....

cam seals are cake compared to the caution u need in doing the t belt... 6 extra bolts and careful use of a flat tip will get those badboys out

i'd possibly go for 1200 max...the water pump/upper line will also entail if done right cam seals and the timing belt...which if you dont do the work it'll be somewhere along the lines of $600 to get done plus parts (i think thats a good estimate but might be high or low) as for chassis rust take a screwdriver and punch towards the frame above the wheelwells and what not and check under the rear seat for rusting out there...look around here for pix of frame rot that can get costly if the frame rails are rusting thru...also a bad place is up front under the battery for rust/rot any pix?

how much do u owe? and how hard has it been driven?

man my gf used to have a lowered integra (god forbid i had to drive it for a week when i busted the engine in the white truck) that thing rode like pure @!*% and my fat ass made the tires rub the fenderwells (till i did an oil change and jacked up the coil overs) glad she traded it in on the jetta

i've got plenty of screws...just in a big ole bin tho...so the swap done and up and running? was youtubin around tonight and saw a bunch of ure vidz and that looks awsome...im going balls out tomorrow on the white 1 to get it done...been waiting on an x member for 3 months now...so im gonna say screw the lift in the front and find some mud hopefully i might shoot u an email sometimes on ure welding setup

nice vid...got the parts today as well...thanks thought the lag was just my computer being sucky...

a truck can be lowered...i have rules for lowering them tho... 1. no imports 2. air bags allowed for car shows and car shows only (some trucks look better dropped but it doesnt make sense to drive it with the bumper 3 ins off the ground) 3. better be able to roast some tires 4. strait pipes/blowers/and big blocks are a plus 5. looks clean and not a lotta bling below is very acceptable (for me that is)... More about the truck the owner is 60... but i like classic cars and big ole offroad trucks and my pathy's of course

if the alarm is gone i think there would have been remote locks... my 95 that had the alarm and remote locks has a little sensor on the dash in one of the vents i dont know if that is the sensor or what but there is also an antenna looking thing on the alarm box...i have noticed on lots of cars that have remote locks there is some sort of sensor either on the dash or if there is a center console in the roofline its also there (older jeep cherokee's have it there) but i'm not 100% sure on my statement so it could be incorrect... did the remote locking system contribute to the insane locks? IE if u pull up on the pass side lock all unlock and lock if u push it down? or was that just a power lock norm? i also found if u turn the key 2 times to the unlock position it will unlock all doors...

for $80 extra just buy a new flywheel...then u dont have to mess with adjusting the pushrod (not that its hard to do) i did notice when i changed the clutch this time and in my 87 that the pedal was way softer (all the time) than what it used to be which just means the forks on the pressure plate were less stiff (not sure if thats good or bad yet)

notta problem good luck

check ure PMs...I would think the trannys from 93 and 94 are the same if so my PM will help out...

some sort of Mopar...

thats the beauty of having issues with the car...they fixed what should have been the symptoms...the slave cylinder should have been done 1st i would believe if it were visually leaking from the boot... I would check the bleeder valve to make sure its not somehow backing off of or leaking and then I would check the lines for leaks b/c thats the only thing left to change in the system... 30000km and on a 2nd clutch gyees....

heh...Geaux Saints...do it like them tigers did...(god the panthers need to fire delhommie (misspelled on purpose)) ..........^ if u dont understand its a cajun kinda thang...

yea i was thinking about that...but wasn't completely sure how that worked with the open diffs...assumed that 1 wheel would have to be restricted to no movement so all the translation is through 1 shaft and the pinion...and im guessing the difference between the 2 if they were different would be 120 degrees in the finishing place

possibly the rotor is worn on the ends and gets some surface rust on it if its moist out and sits overnight?